Raised panel sides

[Joe Chritz]

What is everyone using for a joinery method for raised panel sides for boxes or furniture.

I have generally just run a dado in the rail and glued the plywood top or bottom in. Basically treating it like any other panel. My theory is that the wood movement is limited along that axis of the board and isn't a problem.

Up until the design I am working on they have all been fairly narrow. This one will be wider, maybe 28" deep.

Do you think I need to worry about wood movement? Maybe glue the center several inches and use some kind of fastener near the edges that allows some movement. Maybe just fasten with a cleat.

Maybe I am over thinking it since it is around 0330 and I should be sleeping.

Thanks

Joe

[Sam Yerardi]

Joe,

If I understand your question, myself I don't glue my raised panels into the dadoes of the rails. Something tells me I'm not understanding your question, though :)

[Curt Harms]

I've used silicone in the groove. The panels were plywood so there shouldn't be much movement and my thinking is that the silicone would have "give" but still help hold things together and eliminate rattle.

HTH

Curt

[John Pahl]

I'm not sure I understan your question either but to follow along what the others have said. I never glue raised panels in. they should be free floating. I have used foam inserts placed in the datos to stabilize the panel to keep it from banging if it's part of a door or something.

John

[Roger Warford]

There are many good threads on raised panels here. You may be able to glue plywood panels in, but solid wood panels are typically not fastened at all. Some use various materials (such as "space balls" or pieces of nylon rope) captured in the grooves to prevent the panel from rattling. You might want to review this thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=78028).

A quick search will turn up many more threads. I personally prefer to search via google. Try typing "raised panel site:sawmillcreek.org" in the Google search box.

[Scott Loven]

I built a vanity with face frame on the front, raised panel doors and raised panel side. I glued the side stile to the face frame at the front and used screws with a slot at the back allow for movement. Works like a charm!

http://www.vmtw.com/shop/vanity1.jpg

[Dave Burris]

Here is a technique I had read about but have not had a chance to use. If someone has tried it please let me know how it worked out:

Take a sheet of wax paper and run a thin bead of silicon caulk several inches long and let it dry. Once dry cut the bead into smaller pieces and lay into the corners of the dados of the rails and stiles. The dried caulk will act as a small cushion to keep the raised panel from bumping around but will allow the expected wood movement of a solid raised panel.

Kinda like a poor man's space ball. I know this fits my budget.

[Paul Simmel]

>>> I have generally just run a dado in the rail and glued the plywood top or bottom in. Basically treating it like any other panel.

That's how it's usually done. If everything is acclimated as it should be, the rail won't move enough to matter, which just leaves you 3" or so of cross-grain stiles on either end... again, no problem as evidenced by the fact that cross-grained rails are glued into stiles, and have always stayed put. IOW, not enough movement to be concerned about, IMO.

[Joe Chritz]

The question is specifically directed toward a construction like scott's picture. It isn't for the panels themselves but for using a panel as a case side. Basically gluing a plywood panel as a bottom into a grove in the raised panel rail.

On small pieces 12" or less I have just glued the bottom of the case (normally plywood) into a grove in the rail of the side.

After thinking about it, I think the fastest and best way is to stay with a dado, glue the center of the plywood and attach a 3/4x3//4 cleat on the underside. Using slotted holes then screw up into the plywood bottom. That would allow for the rail to grow just a bit.

I was hoping to avoid the extra step but I think if I did I would always be thinking I should have allowed for some moving.

Then again I may be over thinking again since any wood movement calculator doesn't even list an X (length) dimension.

Joe

[David DeCristoforo]

I get around the whole issue by using "applied" finished end panels. I make them equal to the "net" cabinet depth (including the door) so that the end panel covers the edge of the door (and also the "unsightly" gap between the door and the cabinet face).

[Joe Chritz]

I like the applied end idea for kitchen and bath cabs. I do that with 1/4 skins often and occasionally panels.

This is for an entertainment center so I want to build the sides into unit. It appears that movement length wise is pretty non-existent so any system should be fine.

Joe