Methods to apply dewaxed shellac

[Peter Elliott]

This year, I have been trying dewaxed shellac on several projects. Tried a brush and pad. Just not happy with my results. Seem to get lap marks and the ever drip mark I don't happen to see. Just un-even finish. I know it's not a top coat but if I switch over to shellac, I feel the results will be the same.

I know Steve S. uses this alot and others too. Maybe steps of operations, right applicators, etc.

I spray (hvlp) a lot too but haven't tried this yet. Spray tips?

I tried tinting it with Transtint and got an uneven color on one project...

So this so called simple stuff really got to me, I am missing something!

Thanks
Peter

[Joe Chritz]

I haven't every used sealcoat (the only dewaxed shellac I really use) with anything but a spray gun. I use the same tip I do for USL. Usually out of a different gun though. That is just for ease of cleaning or lack of having to clean before moving to USL.

Putting shellac on by hand, either brush or pad is a learning curve type of thing and others will give some pointers I'm sure.

Joe

[Jim Becker]

I primarily spray it, but use a brush when it's the practical solution. Most brushing issues are the result of not getting the "feel" of the material and trying to brush too much. You can't use the same methods as you do with slow-drying varnishes. But I still try to keep brushing to a minimum these days...I'll even admit to buying a bunch of the small spray cans of the Zinsser product (which is dewaxed) to handle small jobs when I don't want to go to the trouble of the larger gun. Yes, it cost a little more, but it's darn convenient! I always have a can on hand for that kind of thing...

[Matt Meiser]

I too usually spray it. But recently I did some drawers for something in the shop and tried thinning it. It brushes much better that way, but takes more coats to build, but then again it dries so fast you can pretty much just keep going. For small stuff like those drawers I bought a good artists brush at the craft store. That has made it clear to me that if I want to brush it on a larger project, I need to buy a really good larger brush--not something sold at Lowes.

[Steve Schoene]

There are lots of good ways. Many people find that padding it on with a cloth pad works for them. Some like mop-like brushes with very fine bristles. The method that works best for me is to use a watercolor wash brush, such as the Winsor Newton 580 with Taklon Gold bristles. The brush has a low reservoir so it doesn't carry a lot of material, but allows flowing on very thin, even coats without ever a hint of a brush mark. The coats are so thin that overlaps or skips don't really matter much--they will average out in the next coat.

The key is working fast never going back to pick up a missed spot or to work the material at all. I typically start a new stroke about 1 inch from the prior "wet" edge, go back to just touch it, and then reverse the stroke for the balance of the stroke. This keeps there from being any lumps of heavier material right at the touchdown . A light touch is called for, almost as if you were tipping off a varnish coat.

I'm not aiming at meticulous perfection from each application and am always expecting to do a little leveling at the end with sand paper. I use 1 1/2 lb. or 2 lb. cut for brushing.

[Greg Cole]

Hi Peter.
Definately go with a nice light cut to apply by hand 1 1/2 lb seems to be good for me. I've done well with padding schellac with a little practice. I've gotten a decent hand at applying a few finishes by padding, so that helps a bit. The "airplane landing & take off" method per say. I don't try to rush rush, but you do need to have a good pace and be methodical about it. Getting a feel for how quick the alcohol flashes out is part of the trick.
I've yet to spray shellac as I have to drag whatever I want to spray to my day job shop to use the big compressor there. After 5 days a week there, I'm not always anxious to run back on a weekend... anyway.
With a nicely folded & loaded pad I've gotten good results. Don't work the schellac once ya flow it out of the pad onto the surface and don't overlap the edges as per Steve's advice. Make sure ya don't have the slightest wrinkle on the portion of the pad that you actually touch the surface.
A few thin coats lends to a better finish by hand for sure.

Cheers.
Greg

[Peter Elliott]

Thanks Guys,

So, mistake 1 is to NOT overlap each stroke?

I did cut the dewaxed (sealcoat) down to about 1-1/2#

Spraying, I guess just jump in and try to spray the same as USL? I can imagine not having as much product, since it may run fairly easy?

Pad - I've seen the french polish way, I think my mistake was too fast and overlap the stroke.

Steve - this brush -Winsor Newton 580 with Taklon Gold bristles, do you have a good source. If I read right, you are reversing your stroke, meaning 2x over each 1" section?

Has anyone tried or have Jeff Jewitts little spray gun QS08 with shellac?
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/qualspray.htm#guns

[Jim Becker]

Peter, as I said in another thread a few minutes ago, I pretty much spray Zinsser SealCoat "out of the can" with pretty much the same settings as I do for Target USL. I mostly spray flat, so I'm not afraid to get a good coat. For vertical surfaces, I spray lighter to avoid sag/runs and just hit it with a few more coats...you can re-spray SO fast with shellac! When I recently was spraying shellac on the components for three upper cabinets for my new office in the addition, I pretty much was ready to start the next pass as soon as I got through all of the first pass.

[Steve Schoene]

No I am reversing only the first inch, just to pick up the bit of heavier finish that is common when first touching down the brush and then proceeding on past until the flow from the brush is diminished. It's only that initial spot that gets covered twice and it's a very small spot indeed.

[Peter Elliott]

Got it Steve, I had a 1" brush in my mind... therefore the 1" reverse.

Thanks, I'll take the advice and start playing this weekend on some samples.

I see Target has a shellac that has no alchol in it? Anyone use this? Any different results than Zinnser stuff. I like the idea of shooting this stuff over alchol mix.
http://www.targetcoatings.com/sealer_ox_shellac.html

http://www.targetcoatings.com/images/Oxford-UltraSeal-101.jpg

[glenn bradley]

Since I started using Jeff Jewitt's method, I have none of those problems. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=65591 You use a pad of cheese cloth captured in cotton cloth and keep feeding the shellac as you go. You are able to lay the shellac on like you are waxing your car. You get good coverage on the first pass with overlapping circles. No need to go back therefor no lap marks.

Larger panels require either overlap (done after the first "row" is dry to the touch) or by increasing your speed if the surface is not too large. I just did a 20" x 32" table top in one run with this method. Now drips? That's just too much finish at once. A little practice will get you by that one.

P.s. I have also seen him use the squirt bottle technique with a large rectangular pad made of a Viva paper towel and wiping varnish. The thinned varnish and the 1lb cut shellac both mean more coats but it's a trade off; buff out the marks or do more coats.

[Michael Faurot]

I've had similar difficulties applying shellac with a brush. Runs, sags, etc. Trying to sand out defects after letting it dry is also frustrating as the sand paper just clogs up--fast. To avoid these frustrations, I've given up trying to apply it with a brush.

What does work for me though is either spraying it via HVLP or using those spray cans of shellac. I've also had good luck with tinting shellac with dyes.

[Jim Becker]

Peter, I tried the Target "shellac" but didn't particularly like it...the only Target product I've used and felt that way. I prefer the real McCoy when it comes to shellac. I DO like the Emtech sealer product, however, when the properties I use shellac for are not called for, like color that the reconstituted bug spit brings.... :D