Dave Cav
04-08-2008, 6:17 PM
I have a fairly late model Grizzly G1023S 10" cabinet saw. I just spent an aggravating couple of hours adjusting the 90 degree blade stop.
Last night I was making a shooting board and I noticed the edge of the end stop wasn't square to the face. Checking it with a machinist's square it looked to be off by about a half a degree or less. I made a couple of additional test cuts, and the blade was going past 90 degrees (too far to the left), not stopping dead vertical. When I got the saw a couple of years ago I know I checked it, so the adjustment had apparently moved. It wasn't off by much, but was enough to show up on the edge of a piece of hardwood, although it was difficult to see by placing a square on the table top against the blade.
I took a look at the manual, and the adjustment looked pretty straightforward. Of course, I had to move an enormous amount of crap and sawdust (note to self: Clean out sawdust more often; get a dust collector) to get to the right side of the saw, since I have a wide side table with a router mounted in it, plus a set of shelves for holding short pieces of lumber that are too long or good to go in the scrap bin. Once I finally got to the adjustment bolt, I found it was only finger tight. Closer inspection showed why: There's no way to get a wrench on the jam nut to lock the bolt down. The end of the geared trunnion quadrant is in the way. If you look in the manual, the end of the trunnion quadrant is nice and flat, and the adjustment bolt is right out where you can get to it. On my saw, the flat end of the quadrant is recessed a few teeth below the end of the quadrant gears, effectively blocking access to the jam nut. There is no way you can get a wrench in there to tighten things down, even with the blade and quadrant assembly tilted all the way over to 45 degrees. It took a while, but I finally figured out how to get it adjusted and locked. First, I made a number of test cuts and adjustments until the blade was cutting square. Then I moved the locknut down as tight against the quadrant as I could get it, and then removed the nut and bolt together, keeping them in the same position as they were when the saw was adjusted. Then I used a caliper to measure from the bottom of the nut to the top of the bolt head; this was the adjustment dimension. The bolt, by the way, is a 5/16" coarse thread, not metric. I then dug through my box and was able to find a 5/16 x 1.25" socket head cap screw (allen head) and another nut. I put both nuts on the bolt, adjusted the bottom nut to the dimension noted before, then put Loctite on both nuts and jammed them together, locking them in place. Then I reinstalled the bolt/nut assembly and rechecked the adjustment, making a couple of additional test cuts. The adjustment was spot on, so I removed the bolt one last time, put some Loctite on it, and reinstalled it. Hope this saves someone else some time and aggravation.
Dave C
Last night I was making a shooting board and I noticed the edge of the end stop wasn't square to the face. Checking it with a machinist's square it looked to be off by about a half a degree or less. I made a couple of additional test cuts, and the blade was going past 90 degrees (too far to the left), not stopping dead vertical. When I got the saw a couple of years ago I know I checked it, so the adjustment had apparently moved. It wasn't off by much, but was enough to show up on the edge of a piece of hardwood, although it was difficult to see by placing a square on the table top against the blade.
I took a look at the manual, and the adjustment looked pretty straightforward. Of course, I had to move an enormous amount of crap and sawdust (note to self: Clean out sawdust more often; get a dust collector) to get to the right side of the saw, since I have a wide side table with a router mounted in it, plus a set of shelves for holding short pieces of lumber that are too long or good to go in the scrap bin. Once I finally got to the adjustment bolt, I found it was only finger tight. Closer inspection showed why: There's no way to get a wrench on the jam nut to lock the bolt down. The end of the geared trunnion quadrant is in the way. If you look in the manual, the end of the trunnion quadrant is nice and flat, and the adjustment bolt is right out where you can get to it. On my saw, the flat end of the quadrant is recessed a few teeth below the end of the quadrant gears, effectively blocking access to the jam nut. There is no way you can get a wrench in there to tighten things down, even with the blade and quadrant assembly tilted all the way over to 45 degrees. It took a while, but I finally figured out how to get it adjusted and locked. First, I made a number of test cuts and adjustments until the blade was cutting square. Then I moved the locknut down as tight against the quadrant as I could get it, and then removed the nut and bolt together, keeping them in the same position as they were when the saw was adjusted. Then I used a caliper to measure from the bottom of the nut to the top of the bolt head; this was the adjustment dimension. The bolt, by the way, is a 5/16" coarse thread, not metric. I then dug through my box and was able to find a 5/16 x 1.25" socket head cap screw (allen head) and another nut. I put both nuts on the bolt, adjusted the bottom nut to the dimension noted before, then put Loctite on both nuts and jammed them together, locking them in place. Then I reinstalled the bolt/nut assembly and rechecked the adjustment, making a couple of additional test cuts. The adjustment was spot on, so I removed the bolt one last time, put some Loctite on it, and reinstalled it. Hope this saves someone else some time and aggravation.
Dave C