Router distance from table front edge?

[Brian Ruhlman]

I have completed all but cutting the hole and adding electric.
I built the cabinet in such a manner the router must be centered between left and right. My question: What is a good distance to place the router center from the front edge of the table?

Thanks in advance.

[matt dumney]

I building a table too and I've wondered about this also. I think you can put the plate pretty much anywhere it will fit. I want a supportive platorm for my work some I'm planning on a minimum of 16". My table is 30 by 48 and will be offset to accomodate the Incra LS17. Plenty of room!

[David DeCristoforo]

I would shoot for 1/3 / 2/3. This will give you plenty of table for support and still leave room "behind" the bit for attaching fences, jigs, feeder or what have you...

YoKuDaDe

[John Thompson]

Ditto Yoshikuni as "Master Japanese craftsman" know their routers and router tables. :D

Just kidding as "Yo" gave the right reasons.. you put it center table and you will limit the support of wide stock. And regardless if you don't use wide stock at this point.. you will sometime down the road most likely.

Sarge..

[Wayne Cannon]

Space between the front of the table and the router bit is especially useful to support long panels or long rails when routing their ends.

Most fences need very little space behind the bit, although it's useful to be able to set the fence back a ways from the bit for grooving (e.g., fluted or grooved panels).

Incra fences (e.g., the Jig Ultra, etc.) require significant space behind the bit for their indexing mechanism. In addition, their technique for dovetails can move the fence a fair ways behind the bit, requiring even more space behind the bit.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I should think that the more "critical" distance would be that from the center of the router collet to the guide track for your miter fence. I'd want it to be as close as possible while still allowing the use of the larger panel raising cutters some of which are quite large.

Thinking about it, I wonder if there have been instances where those monster panel raising bits have managed to snap the router mounts and gone slamming around trapped with the router below the table and the whizzing cutter above. I haven't heard of it happening but absent a beast of a router mount I see no reason why it's not possible. EEK~!!

[Greg Hines, MD]

My own table has the router plate centered, front to back and side to side. When I redo it, I will probably move it closer to the front edge. In a couple of different router books, they set it as close to the front edge as possible, to make it easier to adjust the height and make other adjustments to the router itself. This allows you to reverse the fence and work off the back of the table when you are working on larger workpieces. It would also let you put on an Incra or Jointech positioner.

That said, it is a personal preference. My table has a miter slot set in it, that I use for sleds and such, and those need support too. I would suggest you go to other workshops and check out their tables, so you can decide for yourself.

Doc

[mike holden]

Router positioning - Front vs Rear
I would see how much room my favorite fence takes up, add a couple inches and set the router that far back from the front edge.
Why? Because that gives me the greatest control over narrow pieces when working from the front AND the ability to reverse the fence and have the largest surface to support wide boards when working edges of panels.

Oh, and Cliff, I would NOT have a miter track in the router table. It is a weak point and seems to encourage the table to move. It tends to get in the way when not used and is easily replaced by a straight front edge and a cleat on the traveling piece.

My opinions, YMMV, objects in mirror are closer than they appear, do not take when operating heavy machinery, etc. etc. etc.
Mike

[Brian Ruhlman]

Never considered reversing fence to take advantage of the back - good idea. I will set a strip of wood on the table in a position that feels good. This will be the location as I believe most of my routing will be strips not panels.

Panels: reverse the fence. Or, I have incorporated a pair of heavy duty drawer slides just under the front table edge joined by wood. I will pull the wood out extending the slides and use the wood as an end rest for really big panels

Thanks Gentlemen.

[David DeCristoforo]

With router (and shaper) tables, I never really think of them as having a "front" or "back" but, rather having a "short side" and a "long side" Sometimes it's easier to run with the bit closer to the edge and sometimes you need "more table" for support. Also, you can run "across" the table (shorter dimension) or "with" the table (long dimension) depending on whether you need to "get in close" as you would when cutting tenons or need the extra support like when running long moldings with or without a feeder. For this reason, I have several bolt hole patterns on both my RT and shapers so that I can mount the fence or feeder where ever I need them for that particular operation. I like the bit to be offset from the center because a wider working surface is nice when shaping curved pieces, running panels, etc. Having the bit (or cutter) centered would eliminate the option. Most times, I clamp my fences in place anyway.