Norm's Router Table - What Router Plate

[Charles Wilson]

So, those of you who built the table:

What router plate?

What router?

Why?

Chuck

[Tim Malyszko]

When I built the router table, my first router/plate combination was a Dewalt DW-618 and the Rockler Extra Large Router Plate, which I had to drill to fit my router. The reason I went with this combination was that I already had the router, so all I had to do was buy the router plate.

I did however, burn up the router after about a year's use in the table. Fortunately, the router was still within the warranty period, so DeWalt fixed it for free. I'm guessing that I used it too much with 3+ inch Router Bits.

After burning that router up, I decided to upgrade to the larger Porter Cable 7518 Router and the Mast-r-lift router lift. My reasons were as follows:

7518 Reasons:
3.25 HP Motor - the biggest on the market, so there are no issues spinning the larger bits.
Most people consider the PC-7518 the "standard" when it comes to a dedicated router for a router table.
Reliability - I never came across someone that knocked the 7518
Mast-R-Lift Reasons:

Very smooth operation
Easy to level
Easy to modify my current router table top to fit the new plate until I have time to build a new top just for this plate.
Good reputation
Final Decision on the package:

At the time, Rockler was running a special on the 7518 - $325 + a $50 gift card or something like that.
I also had a 25% off any accessory Rockler coupon that could be applied to the router lift and they would let me apply the $50 gift card to the lift also.
I walked out the door with a new Router and Lift for just over $500 out of pocket.
I also considered the Bench dog router lift and the Smart Lift Digital Router Lift. Both of these also would have been fine lifts, but all things considered, I felt I was getting the best bang for my buck for the package above.

My only advice is that if you can afford it, go with the bigger 3.25 HP router from the start, or buy a lift/plate that will be able to accomidate the 3.25 HP router if you decide to upgrade. I didn't do this and ended up wasting $75 for a router plate, which now just collects dust since upgrading.

Other than that, I would definately reccomend a lift. It makes it so easier to precisely adjust bit heights with the lift. Adjusting the bit height from under the table can be rather cumbersome.

Good luck with your purchase.

[Eric Larsen]

$500 in hardware was a bit much for me. I didn't build Norm's table (I'm in the process of building a table in my Powermatic 66, much like the one Sascha Gast did a few years back.)

While I'd love to drop a 7518 under the table, $$$ is a big concern. I went with the Bosch 1617evs because it seems to me to be the best bang for the buck. Especially when paired with the RA1165 base, which gives above table adjustment at about 1/4 the price of the least expensive Mast-R-Lift system.

I can pull the router from the 1165 quickly and then use it in the fixed or plunge bases for other applications.

Total cost for the router and three bases: $250.

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

I built Norms table. I used a Porter Cable Speedmatic 5 speed router with Rockler's Master Lift insert. I also used Rocklers table top which meant I had to scale down Norm's plans as his is bigger. In hindsight, I would not use the store bought table as it would be nice to have the extra real estate. Very happy with the mast-r-lift insert, don't build one without it. I like the router but next time I would buy a fixed speed router and get a speed controller (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10760&filter=router%20speed%20controller) for it. It's a pain in the arse to have to reach under router to adjust the speed.
It's not a cheap project, that's for sure. I spent over $800 for mine. Worth every penny.

[John Mihich]

I use the rousseu (sp) with a PC 893 in a plunge base with a Router Raizor. I did all that piece meal. I couldn't afford a good metal plate with a lift system. My functions just fine except I will be replacing the plate, hopefully later this year; The rousseu plate isn't perfectly flat - they say it's designed that way. Also the rings are real hard to get out. Not sure which one I'll buy but will probably do it when the wood show comes to Chicago. I will leave the router in the plunge base - works fine for me.

[Andy Haney]

I used a Woodpecker plate to fit the Hitachi M12V I had bought for $CHEAP. Both are working fine, but the M12V has been replaced by a newer model. My fence is fairly tall, and I need "extensions" to make height adjustments without bumping the fence. Messages I've seen indicate that most of the ALUMINUM router plates work well.

Andy

[Chris Holder]

I have the basic Rockler base (no above the table adjustment), because I was using a 3 1/4 HP Dewalt router in it. That router is now toast, so I am planning to retrofit with the PC 7518. I have not decided on whether or not to spring for the lift system. I guess the big question is "what is it worth for you to not have to reach under the table?" It's a nice feature, but the average cost of a basic router plate is $60-80, vs. $200-300 for a lift. I notice that Norm does not use a life, for what that's worth.

[Cody Colston]

When I built my NYW router table, I put a PC 893 in it with a Rousseau plate. A few months ago, I got the Rousseau lift after seeing a post here on how to get two discounts by buying a $15 Dremel engraver. I think I ended up paying around $80 total for the lift and engraver.

I like mine very much. The lift works great and I haven't had any issues with the Rousseau plate.

FWIW, I believe Norm had the Rousseau plate in his original router table and changed to the Rockler plate on the upgraded version.

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

I have the basic Rockler base (no above the table adjustment), because I was using a 3 1/4 HP Dewalt router in it. That router is now toast, so I am planning to retrofit with the PC 7518. I have not decided on whether or not to spring for the lift system. I guess the big question is "what is it worth for you to not have to reach under the table?" It's a nice feature, but the average cost of a basic router plate is $60-80, vs. $200-300 for a lift. I notice that Norm does not use a life, for what that's worth.

Chris, You don't need a router lift, but once you use one, there's no going back. Makes a router table into a mini-shaper. It's not just the convenience factor, yes, it is easier on the back but that's just a side bonus. It makes setup for delicate tasks like a lock-miter bit setup a snap. 1/8 of a turn is 1/64 so 1/16 of a turn is a 1/128th. What used to take me up to a half hour for setup, now takes me just a couple of minutes.
As the old adage goes, "a luxury introduced becomes a necessity."

[Dick Rowe]

When I first built my NYW router table I installed a DeWalt 625 plunge router with a Woodhaven plate.

I recently upgraded to a PC 7518 router and a Woodpecker Quik-Lift and couldn't be happier.

The Woodpecker plate fit the old Woodhaven plate cut-out perfectly so I didn't require any mods to install the new lift.

[Les Derusha]

I originally installed the smaller Rockler plate for a Porter Cable 890 router. I have since upgraded the plate to a Rockler/JessEm Router Lift FX. I also use a Porter Cable Oscillating Spindle Sander (using the Rockler plate) and have modified the original Rockler plate I have to mount a Bosch jigsaw in the table. Makes my Router Station VERY versital.

[Don Abele]

I have a Hitachi M12V (which I got really cheap when Amazon ran a sale a while back). It's a powerful router and for the price, I couldn't beat it. I modified the M12V for router table use only per John Lucas over at woodshopdemos. The modifications aren't necessary, but make using the M12V in a table much easier.

The M12V is attached to a Woodpecker Plunge Lift. I like this one because for several reasons. The main, is the ultra fine adjustments that can be made from above the table. It has a fine thread adjustment screw which moves only 1/32" per full rotation. To go from dead bottom to dead top takes A LOT of rotations. For that, I chuck up a modified speed crank into my cordless drill (takes a couple of seconds then).

The two together are an excellent combination - just like many of the others already discussed.

Be well,

Doc

[Tom Esh]

I like the router but next time I would buy a fixed speed router and get a speed controller (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10760&filter=router%20speed%20controller) for it. It's a pain in the arse to have to reach under router to adjust the speed.

Just be aware they are not the same thing. The integral speed control has feedback circuitry that maintains the speed under varying loads. The aftermarket controls work by simply reducing power, the result being the router will bog down readily under load especially at lower speeds. To get the same functionality, you would need to remove the electronics, extend the cables and mount them in a box, or go with something like this: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20124 Pricey, but looks like the only game in town unless you're handy with a soldering iron.:)

[Wayne Cannon]

It's hard to beat Tim's combo -- P-C 7518 plus a JessEm Mast-R-Lift.

Some significant reasons to consider a 7518 that I haven't seen in any other routers:
-- Very large diameter opening in the base so the base isn't a limitation on the travel for large diameter bits; i.e., you can drop a large diameter bit down through the base in order to use only the upper portion of the cutters, or to limit the amount of cut per pass in a multi-pass operation.
-- Long travel, so the collet can be extended well above even a thick router plate, either for easy wrenching (although I've since switched to Sommerfeld's Tools' offset wrenches), for use with a jig that raises the work further above the table, or to cut a profile or slot higher up on the work.

One downside to the 7518.
-- Several (including me) have experienced problems with the speed control electronics becoming erratic (after seven years in my case). It hasn't been significant enough to cause me to replace it yet, but the speed does wander a bit when first started before settling down.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I currently use a Rousseau phenolic plate and a PC 890 fixed base, because you can use the bast to raise and lower the bit from above the table with a socket or their wrench. It seems to work just fine, though I would agree with the other poster regarding the rings. They are difficult to get out and also to put back in.

When I build my 3.0 version of a router table, I am going to at least give the Incra router plates a hard look. I am particularly intrigued by their "Mag-na-lock" insert rings.

Doc

[Norman Pyles]

I haven't built mine yet, but I do have the standard Rockler plate to attach my Freud 1700 to. I also have a Freud 2200 that I am going to build a home made plate for when I do raised panels.