Shaping tote on Shepherd kit--Spiers #7 smoother

[Alex Yeilding]

I'm finally getting around to finishing my kit, and need some advice on shaping the tote. My problem is that it seems extremely small for my hands. I don't think of myself as having unusually large hands, though, so maybe I don't understand how this plane is held in use.

Here is the handle as received from Shepherd, in my hand as I would expect to hold it. But when I close my hand, my little finger goes below the sole of the plane. I kinda think that is not right!
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The next two pictures show a four-finger grip on the tote.
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I would have to ease the corners on the top for my index finger (and I'm okay with that--I am looking primarily for what works best, secondarily what looks good, and historical accuracy is a distant third). But the web between my thumb and forefinger is too high, uncomfortably pushing on the "horn" of the tote. If this is the right grip, maybe I should get some cocobola and shape an oversized tote.

I think there is a five-picture limit, so I'll ask my questions about positioning the tote relative to the rear infill in a reply to this post.

[Alex Yeilding]

My second related question is where the tote goes (besides the obvious). In the pictures below, I have taped the iron to the back infill to experiment with positioning the tote.

In the first pair of pictures, the tote is pushed as far forward as it will go in the dado on the underside of the back infill.
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I think this looks nice, but there is not room for four fingers (at least not my fingers) between the tote and the rear infill and iron. And my forefinger hurts just thinking about planing for very long with that grip.

The next set of pictures shows the tote pulled back some, giving me room for a four-finger grip if I can get the tote shaped right for that.
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I think this will give me enough wood to pin the tote securely, but would you anticipate other issues such as balance, handle forces, etc. in action that I haven't anticipated.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[Ethan Sincox]

I guess my first question would be, "Do you normally use a four-finger grip on your other bench planes?"

I was taught to, and still do, grip the tote with my bottom three fingers (not too hard) and point my first finger towards the front of the plane.

I would assume the same finger positions would work for an infill smoother... then again, I could be wrong.

[Alex Yeilding]

I guess my first question would be, "Do you normally use a four-finger grip on your other bench planes?"

I was taught to, and still do, grip the tote with my bottom three fingers (not too hard) and point my first finger towards the front of the plane.
Interesting question, Ethan, in part because I didn't know the answer. I went to the shop and grasped some of my iron planes, and still don't have a definitive answer. My approach seems to match that recommended by Hack: "grasping...the rear tote with as many fingers as fit around it comfortably". It appears I usually use a grip like you describe, similar to the second photo in my second post above. So while I thought this would be uncomfortable, maybe it won't.

In trying to figure out the answer to your question, I learned a few things.
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1) The tote for this plane is not small. In fact, it may be larger than the totes for most of my Bailey planes.
2) The angle of this tote is as different from the Baileys as is the LV LAJ, in the opposite direction. This would seem to argue for the tote being tight up against the body, since it seems to be designed for downward pressure.
3) Maybe the comfort of the grip isn't all that critical. My favorite Bailey plane, my #8, is also the least comfortable (tight spacing from tote to adjustment knob, wide iron, now even wider since I started using the rectangular-topped Hock iron.) But I never noticed that in use.
4) Very subtle differences can make a big difference in the feel of the tote. Looking at them I would swear that the totes on the 4-1/2, K5, and 8 in this photo were identical other than wood choice and finish. But the K5 is much more comfortable, both for a four-finger grip and a three-finger. Closer examination shows that the curve at the bottom is just very slightly lower, which makes a big difference in feel. And the narrower iron and trapezoidal top makes the forefinger-forward grip more comfortable.
Finally, my most comfortable Bailey tote is on my most worthless plane--my first iron plane, a genuine Stanley handyman.
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Note the extra height, with the carve-out for the lateral adjuster. And the side away from you in the photo is nicely curved to fit my hand. I'm sure a lefty would find this tote extremely uncomfortable. Someday I'll have a lathe and will replace that fine genuine plastic front knob!

[Jim Koepke]

Very subtle differences can make a big difference in the feel of the tote. Looking at them I would swear that the totes on the 4-1/2, K5, and 8 in this photo were identical other than wood choice and finish. But the K5 is much more comfortable, both for a four-finger grip and a three-finger. Closer examination shows that the curve at the bottom is just very slightly lower, which makes a big difference in feel. And the narrower iron and trapezoidal top makes the forefinger-forward grip more comfortable.

I purposely have done this on many of my totes. What a difference removing a little wood can make.


Finally, my most comfortable Bailey tote is on my most worthless plane--my first iron plane, a genuine Stanley handyman.

That looks a bit different than the tote on the Stanley Handyman I used to have. May be that it is a replacement.

jim

[Alex Yeilding]

That looks a bit different than the tote on the Stanley Handyman I used to have. May be that it is a replacement.

Whoops, I guess I forgot to say. Yes, this is one I cut from a scrap of cherry, and shaped to best fit my hand. Nothing pretty, but it is comfortable.