RE Freud blades

[Paul Arnold]

I recently bought a Jet TS and upon getting the blade aligned to the miter slot and fence to it I noticed that the blade is cupped in the center. I made sure that I didn't crank down on it when I installed it, and it takes little effort to loosen the nut so its not too tight. I put a a straight edge on it with the nut just snugged up finger tight and the blade is tight to the straight edge. If it tighten it a 1/4 turn it developes a cup in the center on the nut side of the blade that is a very noticable gap. I have even tried putting a Forrest stabilizer on to see if it makes a difference, which it does, but only a very small difference, still a noticable gap to see with naked eye.

Thinking it may be the blade I tried another blade, same thing. Both blades are Freud P410 Premier Fusions with full kerfs. The blade still cuts great and straight but it can't be normal.

Is this normal? Is it the blades? Or the saw?

Thanks,
Paul

[Bill Huber]

I don't know the saw but all of the saw that I have seen the arbor has a large ring on it that has and edge on it that is higher then the center. Then when you put the blade on there is a washer of the same diameter as the arbor and it also had a ridge on it that is higher then the center.

Now when you put the two together it holds the blade and it is flat.

So I would say that the washer must not be the right size or not be flat, that is the only thing I can think of.

Good luck...

[Jamie Buxton]

I don't know your saw, but many table saws include a large cupped washer which goes on the nut side of the blade. The washer is the same diameter as the arbor flange on the other side of the blade. When the nut gets tightened up, the blade is squeezed only at the edge of the washer and the arbor flange, not in middle near the nut.

[Tom Veatch]

... If it tighten it a 1/4 turn it developes a cup in the center on the nut side of the blade that is a very noticable gap. ...

Bill and Jamie are pointing in the right direction. There is something in the configuration/geometry of the blade attachment (parts 102 and 104) in the diagram that is allowing the blade to deform as the nut is tightened.


... The blade still cuts great and straight ...

In that case, personally, I wouldn't worry about it and just go make some sawdust.

85847

[Mark Singer]

The Freud blades are really good!

[Lee Schierer]

I don't believe it is your blades. I use Freud blades exclusively and have at least four in my shop right now. All are dead flat. Look at your arbor flange and flange washer that goes on the nut side and make sure they are flat across the out side. My saw has a raised ring around the outside of the flange and the washer to grip the blade only along the rim of the washer or flange. Make sure the blade can seat tight to the flange on the arbor. If the inside radius where the flange joins the shaft is too large the blade can hang up casing the condition you have described. Note which way the blade deflects and that is the side that is causing the problem. The problem will be on thh concave side of the blade.

[Dave Verstraete]

Paul
Is it possible that the cupped washer that you put on after putting on the blade is no longer cupped? You did not mention a washer..so I have to ask with great trepidation (I don't mean to offend!)...are you using it?

[Paul Arnold]

Thanks for all the responses. The cupped washer is the same diameter as the arbor flange and is still cupped. I understand the principal of what should be happening, that is one reason I tried the larger, stiffer stabilizer to see if that would help flatten it out.

As for Freud blades, this is the whole reason for wanting to know if it was common to them since they are the only blades I use and don't have another brand to try and compare with. I have 5 total but had never noticed this before.

With all that has been said, how tight should the arbor nut be? Like I mentioned before, I only turn it approximately 1/4 turn past finger tight which snugs it up nicely.

[Jim W. White]

IMHO ....you might be overtightening the blade.

I know a 1/4 turn doesn't sound like much but I know I don't get that much on my saw without the scrap wood giving out against the teeth (which is the only holding method my saw is afforded ;) )

Jim in Idaho

[Jacob Reverb]

You're not by any chance putting the cupped washer on backwards, are you? The "concave" side should touch the blade and the "convex" side should touch the nut. (Yeah, I know, but sometimes the most obvious answer is the last one any of us think of!)

[Lee Schierer]

With all that has been said, how tight should the arbor nut be? Like I mentioned before, I only turn it approximately 1/4 turn past finger tight which snugs it up nicely.

I generally hold my blade with my fingers and tighten the nut with the wrench. Since the teeth are pushing away from me there is no chance of getting cut and you don't get a lot of grip on the blade before your fingers slip. I've never had a blade come loose with this method. The direction of rotation will tend to tight the nut so it doesn't have to be extremely tight. Deflecting 3/32" thick steel is too tight.

[Paul Arnold]

Problem solved, the flange washer (nut side) was concave only slightly, so when I did tighten the nut it was collapsing to the blade. I tapped (okay, wailed) the washer a few times with a hammer and now it works perfectly. THANKS for all the assistance.

BTW, I'm not turning the nut a 1/4, just a little over an 1/8. I was mistaken by saying a 1/4 (was going based off of memory :confused: WOW its true the mind is the first thing to go!!).

Again, thanks for the help

Paul

[Joe Chritz]

One other thing is to lap the blade side of the washer on some sandpaper so it is truly flat.

The washer should hit all portions at the same time so it does exert any stress on the blade unevenly.

Joe

[Jacob Reverb]

I tapped (okay, wailed) the washer a few times with a hammer and now it works perfectly.

You might want to look into getting a new washer from the manufacturer. As I understand it, the dimensions and machining on the washer are fairly critical, and a damaged one can make your saw do some funny things...