Best Jack Plane under $100

[Doug Hobkirk]

Good day, all you Neanderthals -

I'm a novice at your game and I need some help. I just ordered a Hong Kong style smoothing plane from Lee Valley. Now I want a credible Jack Plane (I have a modern Stanley that attaches the handle with only one bolt - it doesn't feel good at all).

Maybe I will get serious enough that I will buy a Lie-Nielsen some day, but for now I would like a good plane that works well without busting my wallet.

My research so far seems to suggest that a Stanley #5 from around 1940-1950 with a Lie-Nielsen or Hock blade should meet my needs. But is that right? What about earlier? What about other brands? What about...

Thanks.

[David White II]

What is it you don't like about the Stanley? Just the feel? Or is it lacking in performance as well. What are you using it for? I'd guess an older Stanley #5 would be an improvement even without a blade upgrade, but sharpening seems to make the biggest difference in performance for me.

[Glenn Shotwell]

I want a credible Jack Plane (I have a modern Stanley that attaches the handle with only one bolt - it doesn't feel good at all).

I would like a good plane that works well without busting my wallet.

My research so far seems to suggest that a Stanley #5 from around 1940-1950 with a Lie-Nielsen or Hock blade should meet my needs. But is that right? What about earlier? What about other brands? What about...

Doug,
I'm a newb to planes too, other than power and block planes. In my reading here I seemed to sense that the type 11 (low knob, small adjuster, three patents) was a favorite. This site https://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/planes101/typing/typing.htm helped me understand what I was looking for.

I was able to pick one up recently at the auction site, that I posted here, for 12 something plus 14 shipping. If you like I could PM you some insight that might help you find one there for a good price.

Also from my reading here I think that flea markets and swap meets are a very good place to find planes. I just don't have the time for that though. If you do it might be good to go to a few once in a while.

But I think that most all attach with one bolt through both the tote and knob. Do your handles feel loose or something?

[Jim Koepke]

Doug,
I'm a newb to planes too, other than power and block planes. In my reading here I seemed to sense that the type 11 (low knob, small adjuster, three patents) was a favorite. This site https://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/planes101/typing/typing.htm helped me understand what I was looking for.

I was able to pick one up recently at the auction site, that I posted here, for 12 something plus 14 shipping. If you like I could PM you some insight that might help you find one there for a good price.

Also from my reading here I think that flea markets and swap meets are a very good place to find planes. I just don't have the time for that though. If you do it might be good to go to a few once in a while.

But I think that most all attach with one bolt through both the tote and knob. Do your handles feel loose or something?

Glenn, Look again at the pictures you posted and you will see a screw at the front of the tote on your plane. I almost mentioned in the thread where you were asking for information that it looks like the correct screw. Often, this has been replaced by an earlier owner who lost it and just used the closest thing they could find. It is a difficult screw to find as hardware stores no longer carry the odd sizes that Stanley used. If my recolector is working, it is a #12 at 20 threads per inch. It has the same thread as the frog screws so one can be fashioned from one of those.

The totes were changed on later planes from less wood at the foot. Then they changed to plastic.

I use a rasp and sandpaper on the bottom curve of the tote to make it a bit more comfortable.

As far as the planes go, I do not feel like paying more for the SW mark on the blade. So my tendencies are to buy type 11 or earlier. A couple of type 6s were such good deals that it was beyond my ability to refuse them. The depth adjuster on the type 6 and earlier is threaded opposite of the later planes. If you must have the frog adjusting screw feature, then type 10 or later is what you want. My preference is for a low knob. It allows the palm of the hand to be on top of the knob and the thumb on one side of the plane and the fingers on the other for holding the front. Was thinking the other day we should have a thread on how we hold our different planes or is that how we hold our planes different.

I am beginning to ramble here. Back on 3/24 I posted to a thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=812071#poststop

With my thoughts on a few planes and how far gone they were. Most of the pictures should be up on eBay for another couple of weeks.

Here is one that you should not buy. If you look at the sole, you can see deep pits. 350044855069
I sent a question about the blade, since it is a type 6. The reply was the trade mark was not readable because of the pits. Oh well, I will continue to look for a type 6 blade and usable sole for the one I have, but until then it is still a good user.

If you look in the "Rust Hunt" thread, you will see the 5-1/2 in the pictures below that was mentioned. I bought it. The 5-1/2 is a "Fat Jack."

jtk

[Brian Kent]

How about 2 for $100?

If you find that you like the Hong Kong smoother, the companion plane would be the Rosewood Jack Plane from the same manufacturer, sold by Japan Woodworker for $37.50.

http://japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=98%2E105%2E9050&dept_id=13602

It comes with an A2 steel blade, with the whole plane costing less than an A2 Hock blade.

Then with the change buy a nice old Stanley #5, shine it up, and see which you like the best!

[Johnny Kleso]

https://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/planes101/typing/typing.htm

Is one of my websites and that address will not be working soon, Comcast was giving me fits for the last six months with there upgrade and I have the site on three of my accounts right now..
rarebear, rexmill and stanleytools

The true address should be
https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/typing/typing.htm

You can also reach it buy using the re-direct www.rexmill.com (http://www.rexmill.com)

[Doug Hobkirk]

Johnny -

Thanks for your follow-up. The original link worked fine for me and I've spent about 2 hours reading the site, especially the how-to-tune-up-a-plane article. I even started the process on my Jack plane up to 100 grit on glass for the sole, chip breaker, blade, and the lever cap. I also adjusted the frog slightly. I don't like the feel of the lateral adjustment lever or the depth knob.

My conclusion, FWIW, is that it would be smart to get a plane from 1929 on [the boss was added for the front knob]. I want to compare an old plane to my current one, even if only to satisfy my curiosity.