Cutting small & narrow pieces on a table saw

[Nissim Avrahami]

Good day

I had to rip a few small pieces for some router table aid/fixture and I would like to share with you the method.

I'm using an Auxiliary fence clamped to the rip fence...now, when I'm saying Aux fence.... give me some good width say, 4"~6"....you don't like to "drive" in congested areas, do you...

Before clamping the Aux fence, give it a pass through the blade just to make sure that its parallel and consistent in width.

The sled is made of 5/16" (8mm) "Floor panel" but of course, you can use plywood or MDF.
It's very easy to make it, just a runner glued/screwed under the board...you don't need a fence but you can add one and use the sled as "multi purpose"...as I do...

As you will see, I'm holding both hands on the trowel and that, doesn't leave too many hands or fingers to be used as a "Backer board" for the workpiece...saves a lot of money...(no need SS :) )...

Regards
niki


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/TS%20ripping%20small%20pieces/01.jpg


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[Nissim Avrahami]

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/TS%20ripping%20small%20pieces/10.jpg


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[Nissim Avrahami]

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/TS%20ripping%20small%20pieces/19.jpg


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[Prashun Patel]

I love this forum. Thanks for your posts. That was incredibly informative to me.

[Paul Snowden]

Great threads, thanks so much.

[Tim Thomas]

I love these threads about cutting small pieces. Thank you Nissim, you give a lot of detail and great pictures. Really unique solutions and everything always looks really safe. By the way, what do you use all of these small pieces to make? Segmented turnings, inlays, maybe models?

[Mark Valsi]

Dobdza !!!

Mazel Tov

[Nissim Avrahami]

Thank you so much for your kind words

Tim
As I said, I needed some small and narrow pieces for the router table aid/fixture....
Just not to leave you with question mark....

When I'm setting the "bit / fence" distance or, the "bit / fence stops" distance, I like to see where "the bit will hit" or in other words, I like to measure from a "solid" locator and not from the bit itself.

So, I made two small grooves or slots, one across the other, the slot width is 8mm (5/16") and the depth is 6mm (1/4").
For those slots, I needed runners...
I glue the runner to a board and push it through the spinning bit and it gives me the exact point of the cut and solid point that I can measure to the fence (with small calculation) using modified dedicated caliper.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/RT%20Fence%20Bit%20setting/002.jpg


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/RT%20Fence%20Bit%20setting/005.jpg


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http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/RT%20Fence%20Bit%20setting/015.jpg


Same for the "Bit / fence stops"
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Mortising%20on%20RT/014.jpg


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Mortising%20on%20RT/017.jpg


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Mortising%20on%20RT/020.jpg


Actually, as you could see, I can make all the distances settings without needing the bit itself...the only thing that I need the bit for is...setting the bit height....oh yes, and for cutting :)


Mark
You just had to add "Omedeto" (Japanese - Mazel Tov) and you would conclude almost all the languages that I speak....even though, Polish - not so good yet...:o

Best regards
niki

[Eric Larsen]

Could we please put all of Nissim's "here's how you do it" posts in one big thread?

As always -- excellent tutorial.... Dobsha!