identify this plane (pics)

[Glenn Shotwell]

Well I finally won an auction and I'd like help identifying the Stanley #5 plane below:

http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/iknowit/planeno5a.jpg
http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/iknowit/planeno5aa.jpg
http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/iknowit/planeno5aaaa.jpg
http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/iknowit/planeno5aaa.jpghttp://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/iknowit/planeno5aaaaa.jpg

I'm new to old planes but I beleive that it is a type 11. It has 3 patents in front of the tote. Those rust spot at the front of the sole don't look too bad I hope. I'm hoping it will be a good user. My only other planes are small block planes.

Thanks,
Glenn

[Billy Chambless]

I'm far from an expert, but I'd agree that it's a type 11 -- the adjustment knob looks like the small one.

At any rate, it's a good catch -- enjoy it!

[Glenn Shotwell]

Thanks Billy, I don't even have it yet and I'm enjoying it!

Also I'd like opinions from anyone as to what level of restoration I should take with this plane.

[Mike Henderson]

You didn't show the blade logo but if it has three patent dates and the V logo on the blade, it's probably a type 11 - which is a good type. Congratulations!

Mike

[Glenn Shotwell]

Thanks Mike. With all the other features if the blade was different it could be a different type? Those are pics off the auction so I don't know yet.

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks Mike. With all the other features if the blade was different it could be a different type? Those are pics off the auction so I don't know yet.
I "think" it's possible for a plane with three dates to be a type 10 (no V logo) but I'd have to go research it. Maybe one of the plane experts will chime in here. Of course, it's always possible that the iron has been changed so it's not an absolute indicator.

Type 10 is a good plane, also.

Mike

[Jim Koepke]

I am not sure, but I think the type 10 has 2 patent dates. Just checked the chart and it agrees.

It looks like one good plane. The rust should clean up without too much work.

The amount of restoration is up to you. My first action would be to use a little steel wool on the rust, sharpen the blade and see how it feels.

Everything looks to be in pretty good condition.

Have fun with the new toy,

jim

[Billy Chambless]

I
The amount of restoration is up to you. My first action would be to use a little steel wool on the rust, sharpen the blade and see how it feels.


I agree. I always like to start with as gentle cleaning. I know some folks like to restore plane to a "new" state, but I prefer to keep whatever patina and "vibe" it's accumulated over the decades.

Of course, there's no "right" approach, just what each indivudual prefers.

[Danny Thompson]

My understanding is the three dates indicate Type 11 or 12, with the difference being the diameter of the depth adjustment nut (the knurled brass knob behind the frog)--the Type 11 is approx 1", while the 12 is 1.25".

Check this typing flowchart: http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating/index.html

Congrats, Glen.

Regarding the amount of rehab, there is an ongoing argument about this. I don't want to risk misquoting anybody, so I'll just summarize two opinions that I've heard that make a lot of sense:

One is try to make it as close to perfect as you can because of the positive effect a near perfect tool (and shop) will have on your approach to your work. This means you should remove all rust, strip and refinish the knob and tote; lap and polish the bottom and sides; polish the chipbreaker and file the leading edge to ensure it fits cleanly against the blade, repaint, and of course lap, sharpen, and hone the blade. This is the more expensive option and will delay your getting to the wood.

Another is minimalist--take it straight from the box to the wood. If it works, forget about rehabbing. If all it needs is a sharper blade, then just do that. If that's not enough, then try flattening the sole. Not much else should be necessary. Of course, if the knob or tote are broken, or if there is heavy rust on the sole, you would fix those, but not much else. This approach is the least expensive and gets you to work the quickest. This is also a good approach if you find an aged and tarnished old tool inspiring.

Of course, there are a LOT of opinions somewhere in the middle. My recommendation is to decide what is more important to you--getting to work immediately or having a tool in tip-top shape. Do you want the tool to look like it did when it was new, or do you like it weather-beaten? Budget is part of that, too.

My $.02.

[John Dykes]

It's a type 11 - widely recognized as one of the best types in the Bailey pattern.

Wish I had one...

Well done, good for you!

- jbd

[Jim Koepke]

It's a type 11 - widely recognized as one of the best types in the Bailey pattern.

Wish I had one...

Well done, good for you!

- jbd

It is one of the best types. Low knob, rounded edge on the lever cap. I have a small dwindling supply of large adjusters and a growing pile of small adjusters because they get changed on my planes.

Not sure if this type had the back of the cap iron painted or if that practice was stopped earlier.

Nice looking, as is it should provide another 100 years of service.

Well, maybe it would need a replacement blade to do that.

jim

[Glenn Shotwell]

Thanks everyone. I did a lot of reading here and knew it was held in high regard. I checked the websites that are mentioned in posts for dating and types. I tried bidding quite a few times on what I believed were #5 type 11's and lost. But this time I lucked out.

From looking at the tote and knob, to me they look great and I'd not want to touch them. I like that they are in great shape but also look used. The sides and sole I feel that they should be as good as I can get them to the point of stopping the rust. I think I'd want to stop any rust. The initials I'd want to leave those too, it is its history.

A concern is the rust in the areas where the japanning has worn off and possibly any that has crept under the japanning where it will eventually make more fall off. I'll have to assess that when I get it in my hands.

I've read about the slippery slope as to getting into planes and handtools. I'm looking forward to learning to incorporate more handtools in my projects. I like the idea of less fine dust and lower noise. From reading here I think that handtools have been overlooked by many including myself. The internet and sharing of knowledge is helping them to be understood. And that they can make woodworking more enjoyable while being just as productive if not more so.

[Tom Veatch]

Glenn, you may already be aware of it, but along with the dating flowchart posted by Danny, you may be interested in Patrick's Blood and Gore (http://supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html), IMO, the definitive work on Stanley Planes.

Welcome to the slippery slope. Now that you've got the jack, what's next? A smoother, a fore plane, or maybe a jointer?