How to fill checks in burl?

[Bill Wyko]

On my other thread I posted pics of the burl veneer I just got. It has some small inclusions in some of the small burls. How would you recommend filling these and getting a natural look? Also I'm looking at ways to flatten veneer. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.

[David DeCristoforo]

Use one of these:
http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?cPath=37&products_id=190
and try to get the grain to match (good luck!) or fill the voids with an epoxy/sawdust "blend".

YM

PS That's a lot of holes!

[Bill Wyko]

You only see most of them when you hold them up to the light. I got the wood from Joe so I'll send him the pic and hit him up for a deal on that tool. Thanks for the info.

[Dan Lee]

I did one project vaccum pressing elm burl but it was paper backed. Then I used a clear grain filler (CrystaLac) from McFeelys to fill the voids. The CrystaLac builds pretty fast

Result was good but I don't think the voids were as large as a few of yours and being paper backed I didn't have to worry about the glue squezzing thru.

[Bill Wyko]

I contacted Joe at VS he got me hooked up with all the goodies I need. Again, don't know for sure what I'll use it for. It was just a great deal.

[Doug Mason]

Hey Bill

This is an old post--but I have the same problem as you--some walnut burl veneer with holes (but the holes ar much smaller than yours).

So how did you manage to remedy the problem?--I'm thinking David's idea of a colored epoxy blend is good.

[Chris Padilla]

Doug,

Be sure to EXPERIMENT first with the colored epoxy route. You might be surprised at the color you get once sawdust is mixed with epoxy. For example, maple wood flour mixed with epoxy gives you a chocolate brown color...no foolin'...try it!

Next, once you've tried this on some scrap, be sure to sand it down all nice and then put your finish on it. How is it looking now?

I, too, am curious how Bill's veneer hole filler idea worked out....

What did Joe send you, Bill? What worked? What didn't?

[Bill Wyko]

I was just asked to bring up this thread with some new info. What I've done is use Joe woodworkers dark veneer glue and his mesh. When it pulls the glue through the holes in the veneer, it creates a little bead of glue that rises up into the mesh. This happens due to the mesh not sitting flat like a caul and squishing the glue out and across the veneer. Once the "beads" dry, use a scraper to remove the beads. Joe offers 3 colors of glue, light, medium and dark. You might get all 3 and mix them to get an accurate match. Wait for it to dry due to it darkening as it drys.

[Chris Padilla]

Interesting. If you care to look in my Tansu (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=92396) thread (post #43), you can see this happening on some walnut veneer I glued up. However, filling the voids is cool and all but what about finishing? That Better Bonds Cold Press veneer glue dries like a rock....

[Doug Mason]

Well--I'm going to do some tests this weekend.

So as not to "lighten" my purse more than necessary, I'm going to apply the colored epoxy/sawdust after it is pressed. I'll then scrape/sand it down. I'll see!!

[Chris Padilla]

Please post some progress, before/after pics, Doug!

[Bill Wyko]

Here's some great info for you.
http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/breather-mesh.htm