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View Full Version : What carving tools do you have/use?



Sam Yerardi
04-01-2008, 3:28 PM
Thought I'd try to help get some traffic going on here. Right now I have a set of Ashley Isles that use for much of what I do. I'd like to get some spoon & back-bent gouges this spring.

Question for anyone:
A lot of the old carving books, etc., show just the shanks without the handles. Does anyone know of a source for just that part? I'd like to make my own handles.

Garry McKinney
04-01-2008, 3:36 PM
Sam,
I use pfiels mostly. Eaiser for me to get, since woodcraft sells them and I can see them before I purchase them.

As for handles I know a lot of guys that make them themselves.

Garry

Daniel Heine
04-01-2008, 4:45 PM
Sam,

I am not aware of anyone selling full size tools without handles. Flexcut sells their SK line of tools that have no handle, but they are palm tools, and not to my liking. For my 2 cents, I like Stubai. Sold and distributed in the USA by the Whillock family, the quality of the tools, and the fantastic service cannot be beat. 5 stars. My palm tools are Stubai and Denny. Love them, both.

Good Luck,
Dan Heine

Corey Hallagan
04-01-2008, 10:01 PM
Well I have only been carving for about 2 months but I have become a tool junkie already. Most of my tools are geared at caricature carving and small carvings.

I have 3 Ron Wells carving knives .. these are my favorites. Also a nice Denny 1 inch detail knife, a German bench detail knife and a Murphy Bench Knife. I use a 3/4 Shallow gouge from Ron Wells, 2 stubby handled Ramelson Vt Tools and assorted other Palm Tools from Ramelson and others including a set of Dockyard Micro Gouges.

Corey

Sam Yerardi
04-02-2008, 7:38 AM
Nice looking tools, Corey!

Corey Hallagan
04-02-2008, 8:18 AM
Thanks Sam! I am a sucker for a pretty, thin bladed knife! :)

Corey

Frank Drew
04-21-2008, 4:52 PM
Sam

Years and years ago, I got a bunch of both handled and undhandled tools from Carl Heidtmann, in Germany; I don't know if they still sell them both ways but check out the website and their catalog to see. I communicated in English and the transaction worked without problems. The dollar was better in those days, though.

http://www.carl-heidtmann.de/content/

Heidtmann tools are also sold by a Canadian dealer (unhandled? I don't know):

www.gentmantel.com

Sam Yerardi
04-22-2008, 6:10 AM
Thanks Frank!

Daniel Heine
04-22-2008, 9:00 AM
Hello,

I prefer Stubai tools. The quality of the steel, and the craftsmanship that goes into every tool cannot be matched. For knives, I like my Ron Wells knives a lot also. For knives and palm tools, however, my very favorite are Diobsud Forge. Very expensive, and available at only as few carving stores, these are made by hand one at a time in the Pacific Northwest. If you want to see them check out http://www.littleshavers.com. My last choice for handheld carving would be Denny tools. Razor sharp right from the beginning, these are very nice tools. I do not like Flexcut tools, or the company that markets them. The marketing company does not have a heart.

Dan

Albert Wagner
04-24-2008, 9:22 PM
No one has mentioned Warren Cutlery. They seem to have a good variety of carving knives, chisels and gouges. Can anyone remark on these tools?

Daniel Heine
04-25-2008, 8:47 AM
Hello,

Warren Cutlery specializes in portable carving kits. You get a nice handle that will accept knife blades, gouges, saws, etc. It is my understanding that the knife blades, gouges, etc are supplied to Warren Cutlery by Sculpture House. They are very decent quality tools, but not near the quality of Pfeil, Denmny or Stubai.

Dan

Dave Lindgren
04-26-2008, 2:02 AM
Warren Cutlery started out in business making tools for the shoe and leather industries. To the best of my knowledge, all of their tool/handle things are made in house. Their prices are excellent, the tool blades when received only need a final stropping for use, and they have FREE Shipping for internet customers. As far as their other tools are concerned, I have no idea as to their source.

Usual disclaimer. Just a satisfied customer.

2fo2bb

Jacob Reverb
04-27-2008, 5:48 PM
Does anyone know anything about Hirsch carving tools (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=58819&cat=1,130)? I live in the middle of nowhere and have to buy most of this stuff mail-order, and I just bought a set from Lee Valley. They looked good in the catalog...here's hoping they're good tools!

Jamie Cowan
05-03-2008, 12:25 PM
I have all Pfeil for exactly the same reason as Garry. Plus, I've decided that I like the octagon handles, as I am prone to setting them down now and then. They don't roll off the bench. I figure I'm not good enough to notice a difference between the Pfeils and Stubai, so I'll save a few bucks. Just broke a Pfeil knife, though. Accidentally sent the tip in a little deep, and turned it just right. Or wrong, as it turns out. Broke off a perfect little triangle. Still learning. I'll hang onto it and grind it into something usefull eventually.

Jamie Cowan
05-09-2008, 5:58 PM
Fedex just dropped off the latest Woodcraft order--I got 4 of the Henry Taylors in the closeout section. Woodcraft's Henry Taylor aren't the same ones you buy with the black/straw shanks, they are polished. And the handles are ash rather than beech. Measured in mm like the Swiss. Two fishtails (#5/20, #7/14), a #4/12, and a 20mm double bevel chisel. They don't look as elegant as the Pfeil, but they do look sturdy. Says they need a final honing before use, but not by much--they're sharp. I'll try them out tonight, and pound on them all weekend. Shame about the rounded handles. I'm sure I'll be grinding one soon, when it rolls off my bench. Might cut or sand some sides, we'll see.

randall rosenthal
05-09-2008, 7:56 PM
as long as were on the subject i'm always curious how other people sharpen their tools.......and how long they will use it before resharpening

Jamie Cowan
05-09-2008, 11:16 PM
If you look at the threads, you'll see some great answers to the sharpening question I asked not long ago under the heading "dumb guy with sharp gouges." Since then I have carved for at least 2-3 hours every night except for four while I was out of town. I said that the curves were intimidating, and I wasn't quite sure if I should turn them as I pull, or change the angle on each pull. Prior to carving, all I ever sharpened were bench chisels, knives and lawnmower blades. Lots of great info on people's particular techniques, as well as some philosophy. Since then, I have found that if I keep the strop next to me with some green on it, I'm in pretty good shape. Did another stop with jeweler's rouge, but the green seems fine. When I need a little more edge, I start with a 1000grit water stone, then 6000 (it's a King Ice Bear w/ one on each side) and then strop it. When in use, I usually strop as soon as I start thinking it's been a while. About 15-20 minutes of use per edge, I would guess. I've only had to whip out the stones a couple times before tonight--those Henry Taylors I mentioned above in an earlier post. Still formulating an opinion, but I will say they are a different animal than the Pfeils. Also, I've stuck with carving basswood, which doesn't hack up an edge much anyway.

Mike Henderson
05-10-2008, 12:22 AM
as long as were on the subject i'm always curious how other people sharpen their tools.......and how long they will use it before resharpening
I made a wheel out of MDF that I mount on my lathe. It has leather around the edge which I charge with green honing compound. I hone my carving tools on that whenever they appear to be not cutting well.

See attached pictures which show the front and back of my honing wheel. It's a bit hard to see the leather around the edge. The MDF is 3/4". The sandpaper is used to re-shape an edge when it's damaged - like when you drop a carving tool on the concrete floor.

It's MUCH faster than hand sharpening and honing.

Mike

Mike Henderson
05-10-2008, 12:25 AM
Fedex just dropped off the latest Woodcraft order--I got 4 of the Henry Taylors in the closeout section. Woodcraft's Henry Taylor aren't the same ones you buy with the black/straw shanks, they are polished. And the handles are ash rather than beech. Measured in mm like the Swiss. Two fishtails (#5/20, #7/14), a #4/12, and a 20mm double bevel chisel. They don't look as elegant as the Pfeil, but they do look sturdy. Says they need a final honing before use, but not by much--they're sharp. I'll try them out tonight, and pound on them all weekend. Shame about the rounded handles. I'm sure I'll be grinding one soon, when it rolls off my bench. Might cut or sand some sides, we'll see.
Things may have changed, but the first time I bought some Henry Taylor carving tools, the edges were too hard and would fracture in use. But it was just the edge. Once I sharpened them back a bit, the steel was fine.

I haven't bought any HT's recently.

Mike

Jamie Cowan
05-10-2008, 1:12 AM
Mike, I can already see what you mean. I've been messing around with them a bit, haven't had any edge fracture yet, but found that the first honing didn't really last. Had to go to the stones, but I think maybe there's a breaking in period, if that makes any sense. They are huge. The steel is really thick, and I didn't realize how much flex there was in the Pfeils until I tried these. I actually kind of like the handles. They look big, but feel pretty good. Also, the steel is heavy enough to anchor them when resting on the bench. Not much roll. I bought the two fishtails because I love my Pfeil #5 fishtail, but these are entirely different. Fun to try something new, though--and nothing beats coming home from work on a Friday to find new tools waiting. One of the handles is off center a little, but not too bad. The #5/f20 is actually more like an 18. The #1 is actually pretty cool. The Woodcraft website states that these were made for them, and not actually like the usual Henry Taylors. Sort of lower end, I guess. The lower price reflects this, even before the closeout special. Curious about the performance difference, but not so curious as to rush out and buy one. I think I'm done buying any more for a while (yeah, right), as I have a pretty wide variety of gouges and sizes (about 20 now). Time to focus on getting good.

randall rosenthal
05-10-2008, 8:34 AM
interesting.....i havent touched a stone in 20 years (for non flat tools) i use a cotton wheel with jewelers rouge. if i use a tool for 10 or 15 minutes i hit the wheel for a few seconds then the side of the wheel for 2 or 3 seconds. my theory is never let them get at all dull. dropping one on the concrete floor (which ive done) is a different challenge. i sometimes reshape tools to accomplish a particular task......instead of stones i like wet dry sandpaper on glass lubricated with corrosion X

Brian Millspaw
05-19-2008, 9:22 PM
I have carved furniture professionally for 9 years. I've had the opportunity to handle a lot of tools and the ones I use are Dastra distributed by Frank Mittermeir Inc. They are easy to sharpen and take a lot of abuse. I agree with the post that the Henry Taylors I tried, the edge seemed to disinegrate and the burr just wouldn't strop off.

Tom Fink
07-12-2008, 8:52 PM
Question for anyone:
A lot of the old carving books, etc., show just the shanks without the handles. Does anyone know of a source for just that part? I'd like to make my own handles.[/quote]


Stubai will sell just the shanks. However, getting anything these days takes time. www.stubaidirect.com. But I would download the catalog directly from stubai first. They have instructions on how to order handles and shanks separately.

randall rosenthal
07-12-2008, 10:33 PM
pfeil....but i have oddball yard sale tools also. i find i can make almost anything work well. its just a matter of for how long before it needs to be touched up....

John Novak
07-14-2008, 2:38 PM
Just thought I would mention Ashley Iles gouges (including back bent and spoon) are available at Fur and Feathers Woodcarving -- on the web at www.fandfwoodcarving.com (http://www.fandfwoodcarving.com)