Ok, time to come out of lurking + a question.

[Randy Hoch]

I've been lurking for a couple months now and thought that I would hazard a first post. I actually became interested in turning by browsing this site, sometime before the end of the year. I was looking for a creative outlet, and a way that I could use a small shop space (12x16). I was amazed at the things that I saw produced by you folks, and on other gallery sites. My wife was supportive, and I started by purchasing a Jet 1220. After 4 wks the bearings started to show excess "play",so I negotiated a swap with the dealer for an upgrade to a 1442. I've been sucked in as you might have predicted, and now am really committed to the learning curve.

My challenge,in part, has been that I have no mentor. In fact, I don't know anyone else who turns. I did join the closest club (130 miles), partly so that I could check out turning videos. Also, I attended a demo by Anthony Harris in Bozeman, Mt on Friday which was interesting.

So here's my current question for the experts: Regarding hollowform vessels: I understand the rough turn process for bowls, turning them green to a thickness of 10% of their diameter and then regulating drying with DNA or whatever, but do you do the same thing for hollowforms? Is it better to turn them wet or dry? If green, then to what thickness? I turned my first out of box elder a couple of nights ago and its in a bag with shavings, waiting either to turn to finish thickness or to dry. Thanks in advance for all your help.

Randy Hoch

[Bernie Weishapl]

Welcome to SMC. Randy on HF's I turn them to finial thickness. I use Randy Privett's articulating arm unit with the laser for depth control. I turn my HF's to about 1/4" or less and try to get them consistent from top to bottom. I then soak them with minwax antique oil. I find when you saturate them with it they don't seem to move to much. I let it set for about 10 minutes and if places on it dry out I add more till it won't take anymore. I wipe of the excess and let it dry for 24 hrs and add another coat. Most time 3 coats then buff. I turn all my HF's green. Just easier that way.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Welcome to the Creek Randy!

[charlie knighton]

i generally try to do hf at 20% or less moisture content, but if you can get mesquite out where you are turn it green or turn it dry

welcome to the creek

[Steve Schlumpf]

Randy - Welcome to the Creek!

Up to this point I have turned my hollow forms to 10%, DNA soaked, wrapped and then finish turned a couple of months later. I did have a small number of hollow forms crack in the drying process but that was because I had left the wood thicker on the inside corner - it should have all been the same thickness.

No matter what you do - it is a learning process. Like most folks here - I am self taught and use the forum to post my work, get feedback and hopefully improve my work. Remember - have fun with it! Post lots of photos and ask lots of questions - it is how we all learn!

[Matt Hutchinson]

I haven't gotten into hollow forms yet, but the professional woodturner that I bought my lathe from would rough his out, let them completely dry, then final turn. (He also makes his HFs without any lasers....quite an undertaking.) I also don't know how size effects warping. This pro also made 12" to 24" deep forms, and I imagine thorough drying was more of a necessity with those.

Hutch

[Burt Alcantara]

The green logs that I turn have been sitting around my shop for a few months. I turn the whole log with the pith to the final thickness which is usually 3/16" Like Bernie, I use the Monster Articulated Arm with the laser.

I've turned mostly Willow, Cottonwood and a few logs of unknown origin (was too lazy to look them up). Only problem I've encountered is with a neighbor's freshly cut Apple tree. The rims keep splitting. Don't have this problem with the other woods tho.

I live is a very dry climate and all of my wood is acclimated to my shop.

Have fun!
Burt