Suggestions please wood profile

[Craig D Peltier]

I saw a profile on a cabinet door that we liked. It was like no other on the mass market. The company said it was there own design.
Anyhow I had this moulded out for me. I was basically looking for a convex cove.
On the inside that accepts the panel is where my main question is.
In these pics theres a full 9/16ths. I want the least thick side profile so I gain more of an even cope on both sides an still maintain 3 inch wide.
Whats minimum suggested to go down to in width there to accept a 1/4 sheet of maple which is a bit under 1/4. Would 1/8 be sufficient on both sides that accept panel?
Also do you see any real difficulty in this profile.Im assuming it will take some extra hand sanding where the miters meet. Im also planning on biscuting them together with maybe a couple pin nails from back an glue.

Thanks

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[Sam Yerardi]

Craig,

If I understand your question correctly, an 1/8 of an inch on either side should be plenty, assuming that the frame is in a room where the temperature and humidity are relatively constant. Again, if I understand what your asking, the concern I believe is in the expansion of the maple panel that will reside inside the frame?

[Craig D Peltier]

Craig,

If I understand your question correctly, an 1/8 of an inch on either side should be plenty, assuming that the frame is in a room where the temperature and humidity are relatively constant. Again, if I understand what your asking, the concern I believe is in the expansion of the maple panel that will reside inside the frame?

The panel will be ply so it wont move. Is 3/32nd too skinny?

[Sam Yerardi]

I'm not sure of what the final location of it will be but if it is for a wall-hung cabinet, etc., I would think that dimension would be fine. If it is closer to floor level where it could get inadvertently kicked, it might be too thin. IMHO

[Mark Rakestraw]

If you're using a plywood panel anyway you can glue it in, which would reinforce the thin lips in the stiles and rails--seems like you could go as thin as you could handle without breaking during assembly.

Other things to consider before you make a whole batch of these doors: Doors made with 1/4" plywood panels feel very lightweight when you open and close them, which translates to feeling "cheap" in my head--maybe that's just me. Also the outer edges of your stiles are pretty thin, what hinges are you going to use? You may not have enough meat there to drill out holes for the European style cup hinges or hold a long enough screw for another style hinge.
Mark

[Craig D Peltier]

If you're using a plywood panel anyway you can glue it in, which would reinforce the thin lips in the stiles and rails--seems like you could go as thin as you could handle without breaking during assembly.

Other things to consider before you make a whole batch of these doors: Doors made with 1/4" plywood panels feel very lightweight when you open and close them, which translates to feeling "cheap" in my head--maybe that's just me. Also the outer edges of your stiles are pretty thin, what hinges are you going to use? You may not have enough meat there to drill out holes for the European style cup hinges or hold a long enough screw for another style hinge.
Mark

Thanks for making me think of the hinge.
Heres the actual doors I want to replicate. Do you think the lumber started off at 1 inch thick or even thicker to accomplish this. Rails and stiles are 3 inch wide.
We dont want the raised panel.

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[Craig D Peltier]

Ive figured out now that it will take some 5/4 maple to do this. Im going to have to bite the bullet an buy some.
In order to get one half inch on both sides for hinge and panel and still have that convex look.

[Mark Rakestraw]

Craig,

5/4 sounds about right, as does leaving 1/2 to 9/16" on the outer edge for hinge cups. The thicker lumber will help keep your doors from feeling too lightweight as well. They look nice, have fun with it.

Mark