Todd Burch
03-24-2004, 9:58 PM
I'm working on a big study job right now that is getting paneled with cherry. I'm using 1/4" cherry for both the frames and the panels. Why 1/4" ply for everything? Well, 1/4" cherry ply = $53/sheet. 3/4" cherry ply = $73/sheet. 1/2" MDF = $12/sheet. I'm only saving a few dollars "per sheet", ($53 + $12 versus $73) however I am overcoming the potentials hazards outlined below.
The study walls started, of course, with uneven, non-plumb, non-flat walls. And, every random multiple of 16", there is that extra outward or inward bow where a stud is recessed or proud, causing the sheetrock to follow in a curve.
I thought about how I would panel the walls, and avoid these annoyances left for me by the framers & sheetrockers. I searched the internet and all my woodworking / home improvement / remodeling books, and could never really find a process that was detailed enough to step me through a technique for high-end, floor to ceiling, precision paneling. After thinking about it for a couple months as I worked on other projects, I came up with a method that has seemed to work great, but probably took a little extra time.
I knew that I wanted a 1/2" difference between the raised framing members and the recessed flat panels. So, I started with 1/2" MDF and applied it for the framing base members. Here is a shot of a wall in the MDF-framed stage.
(Hover over the pictures with your mouse for alternate text, describing each photo)
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_MDF_framing.jpg" alt="1/2 inch MDF framing over sheetrock">
I attempted to arrange the 1/2" MDF so that I would not have seams in the sames places where there would be seams for the 1/4" plywood. However, there are some places that I either forgot or it just didn't work out. I knew the unevenness of the walls would cause me grief if the seams for both layers were in the same place.
I put the 1/2" MDF up with paneling adhesive and 2" screws where I hit studs. The paneling adhesive was OK, but next time I'll use construction adhesive. Better tack and a firmer grab.
Now, this step is where using 1/2" MDF under 1/4" ply REALLY paid off instead of just using 3/4" plywood for the framing members. After the MDF was up, I took my 50 grit belt sander and made all uneven butt joints flush. This was a key step in helping me align the 1/4" plywood seams laters. I could not have removed enough material in the 3/4" plywood without losing veneer as bad as these walls were.
Now, all I had to do was cut 1/4" cherry ply panels to fit in the fields created by the framing members, and the apply 1/4" cherry plywood directly on top of the 1/2" MDF frames. I used 1/4" crown x 3/4" long staples and glue on all panels and framing pieces. I didn't want any hollow sounds if you tapped on the walls. Yellow glue under EVERYTHING. No staples will be seen, and the panel moulding I used covered both the staples in the edges of the framing members and the staples around the perimeter of the panels.
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_stapling_panel.jpg" alt="Stapling the panel">
Another subtle detail that I am adding is to the 1/4" plywood framing pieces. I cut the pieces off the sheet so that there are no veneer seams. This did waste a little ply (very little), but as I ripped the sheets up, I went through my cutlist and cut essentially whatever width I needed based on the veneer strips on the ply. This way, the framing pieces will appear to be solid wood, as there are no veneer seams on the framing pieces. One thing I learned doing this was that when plywood is made at the factory, don't count on the veneer seams to be parallel with the edges of the plywood!
When I added inner framing pieces (like a rail between two stiles, or a stile between two rails), I but the pieces about 1/32" proud - just long enough to cause the piece to have to be bent to get it in place, but still loose enough that it could be pushed flat into place. I not only glued the backs of these pieces, but I also added glue to the ends of the pieces so where they butted together, they would stay put later on too. Here's a picture sequence of this process.
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_adding_lower_rail_onto_MDF.jpg" alt="Getting ready to add the lower rail">
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_tight_enough_to_bow.jpg" alt="Making sure the piece fits tight...">
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_still_pushes_flat.jpg" alt="...but not too tight - it still pushes flat.">
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_glue_in_corners.jpg" alt="Glue is added to the butt joint seam">
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_all_glued_up.jpg" alt="More glue is added to the back of the rail">
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_rail_installed.jpg" alt="All done with this rail.">
Finally, for all vertical and (as many as I could) horizontal framing pieces, I kept the grain contiguous. This certainly added some time to the project, but again, precision work.
Here's a shot of what it looks like now, prior to the crown, chair rail and custom base board. It's really starting to look good. This is my first wall paneling project. I'm sure there are faster ways to do it, but I don't know about a better looking end result. When you charge for precision work, (and I'm doing my best to deliver it,) it takes a little longer. (Sorry for the spots on the picture - I think I got sawdust in my camera!)
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_mouldings_applied.jpg" alt="Framing, panels and panel moulding installed - still waiting for chair rail, crown and base.">
Anyways, maybe this can help someone if you are thinking about adding custom paneling to a room.
Todd
The study walls started, of course, with uneven, non-plumb, non-flat walls. And, every random multiple of 16", there is that extra outward or inward bow where a stud is recessed or proud, causing the sheetrock to follow in a curve.
I thought about how I would panel the walls, and avoid these annoyances left for me by the framers & sheetrockers. I searched the internet and all my woodworking / home improvement / remodeling books, and could never really find a process that was detailed enough to step me through a technique for high-end, floor to ceiling, precision paneling. After thinking about it for a couple months as I worked on other projects, I came up with a method that has seemed to work great, but probably took a little extra time.
I knew that I wanted a 1/2" difference between the raised framing members and the recessed flat panels. So, I started with 1/2" MDF and applied it for the framing base members. Here is a shot of a wall in the MDF-framed stage.
(Hover over the pictures with your mouse for alternate text, describing each photo)
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_MDF_framing.jpg" alt="1/2 inch MDF framing over sheetrock">
I attempted to arrange the 1/2" MDF so that I would not have seams in the sames places where there would be seams for the 1/4" plywood. However, there are some places that I either forgot or it just didn't work out. I knew the unevenness of the walls would cause me grief if the seams for both layers were in the same place.
I put the 1/2" MDF up with paneling adhesive and 2" screws where I hit studs. The paneling adhesive was OK, but next time I'll use construction adhesive. Better tack and a firmer grab.
Now, this step is where using 1/2" MDF under 1/4" ply REALLY paid off instead of just using 3/4" plywood for the framing members. After the MDF was up, I took my 50 grit belt sander and made all uneven butt joints flush. This was a key step in helping me align the 1/4" plywood seams laters. I could not have removed enough material in the 3/4" plywood without losing veneer as bad as these walls were.
Now, all I had to do was cut 1/4" cherry ply panels to fit in the fields created by the framing members, and the apply 1/4" cherry plywood directly on top of the 1/2" MDF frames. I used 1/4" crown x 3/4" long staples and glue on all panels and framing pieces. I didn't want any hollow sounds if you tapped on the walls. Yellow glue under EVERYTHING. No staples will be seen, and the panel moulding I used covered both the staples in the edges of the framing members and the staples around the perimeter of the panels.
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_stapling_panel.jpg" alt="Stapling the panel">
Another subtle detail that I am adding is to the 1/4" plywood framing pieces. I cut the pieces off the sheet so that there are no veneer seams. This did waste a little ply (very little), but as I ripped the sheets up, I went through my cutlist and cut essentially whatever width I needed based on the veneer strips on the ply. This way, the framing pieces will appear to be solid wood, as there are no veneer seams on the framing pieces. One thing I learned doing this was that when plywood is made at the factory, don't count on the veneer seams to be parallel with the edges of the plywood!
When I added inner framing pieces (like a rail between two stiles, or a stile between two rails), I but the pieces about 1/32" proud - just long enough to cause the piece to have to be bent to get it in place, but still loose enough that it could be pushed flat into place. I not only glued the backs of these pieces, but I also added glue to the ends of the pieces so where they butted together, they would stay put later on too. Here's a picture sequence of this process.
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_adding_lower_rail_onto_MDF.jpg" alt="Getting ready to add the lower rail">
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_tight_enough_to_bow.jpg" alt="Making sure the piece fits tight...">
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_still_pushes_flat.jpg" alt="...but not too tight - it still pushes flat.">
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_glue_in_corners.jpg" alt="Glue is added to the butt joint seam">
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_all_glued_up.jpg" alt="More glue is added to the back of the rail">
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_rail_installed.jpg" alt="All done with this rail.">
Finally, for all vertical and (as many as I could) horizontal framing pieces, I kept the grain contiguous. This certainly added some time to the project, but again, precision work.
Here's a shot of what it looks like now, prior to the crown, chair rail and custom base board. It's really starting to look good. This is my first wall paneling project. I'm sure there are faster ways to do it, but I don't know about a better looking end result. When you charge for precision work, (and I'm doing my best to deliver it,) it takes a little longer. (Sorry for the spots on the picture - I think I got sawdust in my camera!)
<img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_mouldings_applied.jpg" alt="Framing, panels and panel moulding installed - still waiting for chair rail, crown and base.">
Anyways, maybe this can help someone if you are thinking about adding custom paneling to a room.
Todd