Remote for DC

[Marc Prudhomme]

What is the best remote switch for hooking up to a DC?

[Joe Chritz]

No idea but I run an X-10 and it works fairly well. Lasted over 18 months of pretty solid use on one battery.

I am thinking about switching to micro switches on the blast gates with a 5 minute off delay. Mostly to force me to remember to both turn on the DC and OPEN the gate.

Joe

[Rick Thom]

Marc, is it 220 or 110V, and what HP and amp draw rating? Which make and model dc have you got?
The reason this is required is that 110 & 220 are different units. For 110V, most units won't support more than 1 1/2hp units because they draw too much current (mostly at start-up) and pop the in-line fusing. Some won't support even 1 1/2hp motors either. To be sure, you need a positive response from someone with the same unit you have.
I would like the answer as well for a Delta 50-760 running on 110.

[Dave Bureau]

I've got the Long Ranger that grizzly sells. works great with my griz 3hp DC.
Dave

[Michael McCoy]

I would like the answer as well for a Delta 50-760 running on 110.


I've been running the Long Ranger (110v) for a couple of years on the 50-760. No problems at all and it gets lots of use.

[Bob Rufener]

I have the Lone Ranger for my 220 dust collector from Griz. Haven't had a bit of trouble except when some neighbor had their garage door calibrated with my signal and it would turn on for no reason. Only happened a few times and hasn't happened in over 10 years. I don't know if it is the best or not but it has worked well for me.

[Chris Holder]

No idea but I run an X-10 and it works fairly well. Lasted over 18 months of pretty solid use on one battery.

I am thinking about switching to micro switches on the blast gates with a 5 minute off delay. Mostly to force me to remember to both turn on the DC and OPEN the gate.

Joe

Joe, which X-10 model are you using. I looked on their website but could not find anything like this.

[Jim O'Dell]

Can you get 110 volt relays with 110 volt trigger like the 220 volt relays the cyclones use? If so, a 25.00 relay and any cheap 110 remote will get you working. Actually, a relay for 220 with a 110 trigger would still work, just run power and neutral both through the relay. Jim

[Mark Engel]

Joe, which X-10 model are you using. I looked on their website but could not find anything like this.

Chris, check SmartHome.com
They carry a large variety of X-10 products.

I also use an X-10, 220volt plug in style remote for my 3hp Reliant DC. My last collector was the Harbor Freight "2 hp" unit. For that I used the 20amp, 115volt, X-10 wall outlet.

[Art Mulder]

I've got the Long Ranger that grizzly sells. works great with my griz 3hp DC.
Dave

Ditto, but a 2HP 220v dust collector.

I didn't want wireless, so I bought the "wired" Long Ranger, and just wired up a central switch in my shop. Works fine, and no remote or batteries to keep track of.

...art

[Jim Mims]

I just have a lowly Sears wet/dry vac, but this is what I use:
http://www.smarthome.com/4003.html

- Jim

[Jim Becker]

I used to use a remote...actually, several of them around the shop, but moved to a centrally located hard switch a couple years ago and haven't missed the remotes.

[Rick Thom]

I used to use a remote...actually, several of them around the shop, but moved to a centrally located hard switch a couple years ago and haven't missed the remotes.
Jim, I do believe that a remote is at least, if not more useful in a very small shop than in a larger, open one. Small shops always have obstacles, especially when you've got lots of simultaneous operations going on.

[Lance Norris]

I have a Long Ranger on 2 hp 220v. Works great.

[Art Mulder]

Jim, I do believe that a remote is at least, if not more useful in a very small shop than in a larger, open one. Small shops always have obstacles, especially when you've got lots of simultaneous operations going on.

That gets a "nope" from me, Rick.

Here is the DC remote switch in my shop. It is right beside my TS. 80% of the time I can reach it without taking a step -- I often have to pull open a blast gate there anyways. The other fraction of the time, it is no more than a single step.
85445

I debated putting it in the ceiling, centrally, like I understand Jim Bekker does. But so far this is working fine. Also, the Long Ranger wired remote came with 3 blast gates with micro switches, which I am so far not using. So if this ever did become an issue, I could always move to wire the remote to the blast gates.

...art

[Ron Jones near Indy]

I use the 120 volt unit from Woodcraft. No problems--seems to be a great convenience added to my shop.:D

[Joe Chritz]

I just popped in from the shop for a bit and have the remote hanging from the carabiner like always.

I can't tell what the model is because everything is worn off from use but I will check the main chunk that is plugged in and see.

Smarthome will have the info you need depending on what type of power draw you need.

I think I will like microswitches on the gates better but the remote works well enough it is way down the list of projects. Today is a shop project day, that list sure does get long if you don't stay on top of it.

Joe

[Mark Engel]

Today is a shop project day, that list sure does get long if you don't stay on top of it.

Joe

And even if you do, really. :rolleyes:

[Robert Payne]

I've used a Shop Fox 110V remote control (about $40) for at least 10 years without changing the batteries in the remote transmitters (it comes with two and they have a clip to hook to your shop apron so there is no hunting for a switch elsewhare). I bought mine at Grizzly, but Woodcraft and Klingspor's Woodworking Shop also carry it. It controls a Penn State Ind. 1HP DC (it will handle up to 1-1/2 HP) that is below my shop floor in the high crawl space and I can start it from my front yard.

http://www.grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg288/h/h2797.jpg (http://www.grizzly.com/products/H2797/images/)

I'm upgrading to a ClearVue CV1800 Cyclone and will use a less expensive Lamson HW2190 remote (Ace Hardware for < $26) that will handle up to 1500 watts. I'm wiring a circuit from its outlet plug through NC contacts on an "ice cube" relay to the coil on a 230V/30Amp contactor that will feed 230V to the 5HP motor on the Cyclone. Here's the remote control:

http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE-997422reg.jpg (javascript:showEnhanced();)

Both this remote and the 30A relay are also sold by ClearVue Cyclones at www.clearvuecyclones.com (http://www.clearvuecyclones.com)

[Norris Randall]

Marc, I purchased my remote from Klingspor 800-228-0000 in 2005.
I've got model number showing as WK33460, cost about $50 with 2 remotes. The current catalog looks like price is now $44.95.
I probably included the shipping in my recorded cost.
The plug did not match my 220 existing receptical so I cut it off and replaced with match.

[Ron Fritz]

Marc, instead of buying a remote I opted to save some money and put a 3-way switch in a couple of places that are somewhat centrally located within the shop. I have a dedicated 20amp line running to the dust collector and then run the 3-way off that. This solution has worked well for my needs. Ron

[Jim Dunn]

Jim, I do believe that a remote is at least, if not more useful in a very small shop than in a larger, open one. Small shops always have obstacles, especially when you've got lots of simultaneous operations going on.

Rick I agree. My shop and the table saw is located right in the middle. The dust collector is in one corner and the bandsaw is in the other. It seems like a long way if you have to walk all the way to the DC to turn it on.

I use the one that Rockler sells.

[Wayne Cannon]

I, too, like and recommend the X-10 240-volt 20-amp switched outlet with radio remote (http://www.smarthome.com/2021.html and http://www.smarthome.com/4003.html). I've used it for my 240-volt DC for seven years (and for other lights and appliances for 20 years) and have been very happy with it. There is a wide variety of other wireless (and plugged-in) control units available.

The nice thing about using X-10 is that has tremendous flexibility beyond just the one outlet for your DC (e.g., other 120v or 240v devices, lighting, timer control, computer control, multiple controls in other parts of your shop and house). See http://www.smarthome.com/.

[Dave MacArthur]

I use the ShopFox remote pictured above for my Delta 50-760. I bought the 220V version though, as I swapped the DC over to 220V to allow me to run it on the same circuit as my jointer. Remote works great.