HELP with tinted WB lacquer

[Russell Tribby]

I sprayed some maple doors and a face frame with a WB tinted lacquer yesterday. It was my first time spraying something tinted so the the results were okay. I can still see some striping on the doors but I was able to fix most of it. The face frame is another story. I got major build up at the joint intersections so the overall frame is not evenly covered. On top of that there is a small part on one of the stiles were the lacquer ran and I ended up wiping it off and exposing the wood. I'm not sure what my next step should be. I sprayed the face frame and doors with two coats of sanding sealer before applying the tinted lacquer. I'm thinking about sanding most of the tinted stuff off and then wiping some on by hand. Or I thought I could sand it down to the wood, apply some more sanding sealer and then wipe on the tinted lacquer. What do you guys think? I really don't want to spray again. I work out of my garage and it would be a PITA to set everything up again (gun, knock down spray booth, etc.) for a job that would take 15 minutes.

[Jim Becker]

What "WB Lacquer" are you using and what "sanding sealer" did you use? Same manufacturer? If it's Target USL, there is no need for any kind of sanding sealer, although you can do what I tend to do which is seal with de-waxed shellac to reduce grain raise and the number of coats of the water borne product.

Spraying into corners and on narrow things like face frames is an "art" and requires a bit of practice. It's SO easy to get too much material and not only get a buildup in corners, but also end up with runs as you found out. To this day, it's the more difficult spraying for me...flat panels are easy...and even though I do my face frames before assembly and they are flat when spraying, it's still a challenge since the tendency is to revisit and area due to overlapping patterns

[Russell Tribby]

I'm using Trinity's WB lacquer and sanding sealer. They both have performed well. The problem is me. I am thinking about sanding off the tinted lacquer and going back over the sealer with a more traditional stain. I have some acetone based stain that I usually use. Will this work over the WB sealer? Regardless of what I do I'm going to have to sand the doors and face frame down. The tinted lacquer that I had mixed doesn't really match the existing cabinetry. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Jim, how do you spray face frames before assembly and still get a nice looking joint? I almost always have to sand my joints a little before finishing.

[Jim Becker]

Sorry if I was unclear...I meant spraying before attaching to the carcass, not before assembly of the faceframe, itself.

Stain over a sealer may be a bad idea, depending on the particular stain and the particular sealer. i am not familiar with the WB products you are using and have never heard of an acetone stain.

[Russell Tribby]

I started the unenviable job of sanding down the doors and the face frame. I put some of the sealer on a piece of scrape and went over it with the stain and it worked fine. There wasn't any blotching, which is my main concern since I'm using maple. The stain I'm using is Ultra Penetrating Stain by Mohawk. However, since I'm back to square one I'm open to suggestions. I thought about using some dewaxed shellac to seal and then going over that with some type of stain, topping it all off with WB lacquer. Spraying the tinted lacquer would have given a nicer finish but I don't have the time to mess with it now. Additionally, the color is so light that striping is really noticeable.