Antique Oil

[Tom Bucanan]

I just got the beal buffing system and I would like to use antique oil on my turnings. How many coats should I put on? Should I use all three compounds or is the tripoli too agressive? Any other tips would be helpful.

[Jerry Pittman]

Tom,
I have buffed a few as 2 or 3 coats and as many and 8 or 10 depending on how the wood soaked it up and what effect I was going for. I often use it more like a wipe-on poly than an oil finish because it flows out so nicely.
I start with tripoli because it shortens the buffing time a lot. Develop a light touch on the wheels of they will burn the finish and/or jerk the piece out of your hand. DAMHIKT! :)
Jerry

[Allen Neighbors]

I've recently purchased some Antique Oil (they were out of Danish Oil) and have found that there is more varnish in it than I like. It seems pretty sticky to me. I've had to let it sit longer to cure out so I can buff it.
But I've had no problems buffing it. I've used 2 or 3 coats at the most. I would use more, but like Jerry says, it would depend on how much the wood soaks it up.
After the first couple of coats sits overnight, the rest seem to just build the finish.
May just be the age of the Oil, too.
I use Tripoli first, then White Diamond, then Carnauba. A light touch is best.

[Mike A. Smith]

I think it also depends on whether you apply the varnish on or off the lathe. You can put lots of thin coats on when you 'burn it in' on the lathe. I think it also lessens the cure time. Just my $0.02; there's lots of folks around here that have done more study on it than me!

[Paul Vicchitto]

I would caution the use of the white diamond on very open pore wood species. The compound can fill the pores leaving a speckled look.

[Tom Bucanan]

Do you typically sand between coats when building the finish?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom....I don't sand between coats. I typically put a coat on say the inside of a bowl......really put it on liberally. 10 minutes later if there is any "standing" I'll wipe out the excess with a paper towel. I will let it set over night and the next morning turn the bowl over a can or something to suspend it and wipe a liberal coat on the exterior of the bowl. 5 minutes later if the exterior looks dry I'll wipe on some more. After 10 minutes or so I just let it dry overnight. I'll repeat this entire process until I get the build up I want. I let it dry at least overnight following the last coat. I then buff the piece. I have become a huge fan of Antique oil and this process has worked well for me.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what Ken said. I don't sand between coats and generally for most pieces put on 3 coats. If I want more gloss I may go with up to 6 to 8 coats. I always let the piece dry for 24hrs before the next coat and let it dry a week before I buff no matter if I put 1 or 8 coats. I love antique oil over danish oil.

[Ben Gastfriend]

Definitley don't skip the tripoli! You can skip the white diamond if you have a really porous wood, but getting tripoli on the carnuba wheel is bad. I don't sand between coats of an oil finish, but I do use some micromesh between W/O Poly coats.

[David Wilhelm]

Do you guys always use name brands or do you ever make your own 50/50 mix? If so do you get the same results? I'm wanting to try some other types of finishes. I've been using Blo then covering with Mylands sanding sealer 2-3 coats and buffing with a clean cloth. I've stopped there on some, hibuild, and beal buff on others. I've read on here about "SEAL COAT" are all sealers pretty much the same?

[Allen Neighbors]

David, the sealer that I like the most for turning applications-- on lathe -- is the lacquer wash. I mix 35%Lacquer/65%Thinner (doesn't have to be exact... close works for me) and apply it on the piece with the lathe off. Then I turn on the lathe and spin/buff it dry with a piece of clean tee shirt.
I use the same sealer before I apply CA to a crack, but I blow the excess out of the crack with a blast from my air nozzle, before the lacquer wash has a chance to set up in the crack. This sealer can be applied to a piece and buffed dry, then sanded with 320 or 400 and will still take an oil finish...
It's also good to try a heavy coat and let it dry for 10 or 15 minutes if you have trouble with tear out on endgrain.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Tom

I use alot of Anitque Oil

While still on the lathe, inside and outside sanded, I drench it on with a paper towel. When I start seeing dry spots (maybe 5 minutes) I drench it again with a new clean paper towel full of Oil. I'll keep for 45 minutes to an hour. I know when to quit when things start to get sticky. Then imediately following the last drench I wipe it clean with a clean towel. If it the end of the day I'll leave it on the lathe to dry.

Later after I turn the bottom of the piece I will lightly buff the piece with 0000 steel wool. Then apply one last coat wiping the excess off imediately. Let it dry a week before buffing.

Frank