Finishing questions (flat and round)

[Mark Stutz]

As I expand my woodworking skills I'm trying to expand my finishing skills as well. Eventually want to spray but that is a ways down the road. I have used Bartley's gel varnish..easy, and used a little shellac on a box or two. I used BLO for the first time on my bench base.
I have just used GF Sealacell clear on a small project. Is this OK as a final finish or is it intended as a sealer/stain and should be topcoated with something else :confused: like Armrseal (?SIC), poly,etc.?
I'm soon going to attempt my first bowl!! If I plan to use it...Peanut M&M's of course...is BLO or Danish oil (Jim and Wolf, respectively) a food safe finish, or should I use mineral oil, walnut oil, Behlen's salad bowl finish, or what?
This all seems so confusing when you are new to it, but I'll get there eventually. Thanks in advance.
Mark

[Dave Anderson NH]

I can't answer about the finish you are using as a sealer, but I can give you some other answers.

Any of the drying oils like tung, BLO, Danish, walnut, etc will be food safe when they are fully cured. Most of the advertised as food safe finishes are playing upon the fact that most folks want to see something in writing stating that something is safe. It's just plain ole marketing hype. Kinda like saying there's no cholesterol in water. Before the cure is complete though the ones which use metallic driers like most commercial BLOs, the Danish oils, and some of the tungs could be a bit unsafe. Walnut oil is also safe though it is possible that someone with an allergy to walnuts could have a problem. Shellac (aka bug spit) is also a great finish for bowls. Many foods, M&Ms especially use a shellac as a coating and most pills use it too. An easy way to feel safer about everything is to top any finish off with a buffed up coat of paste wax or a carnuba wax. It also makes the end product look better.

[Chris DeHut]

You mentioned sealacell and armorseal. This is my favorite combination of finishes. A coat of clear sealacell (tung oil) then 2 - 3 coats of satin armorseal. Kitchen tables and other heavy use items get about 4 or 5 coats.

A light sanding between coats with 600 grit paper will yield a great looking finish that is very durably and not plastic looking. After trying various sprayed on finishes over the years, I am now pretty much a "wipe on oil and urethane" kind of guy.

For food safe, as mentioned above, shellac is tough to beat.

Chris

[Mark Stutz]

Dave,
Thanks for the info. This is what seemed logical but just wasn't sure. How long to cure? a week, a month, or longer, and when do I use the shellac or wax? imeediately, or after curing?

Chris,
That is what I expected about the Armorseal. I'll have to get some. I already have 3 coats of Sealacell on. I assume that won't be a problem. Thanks for the input.

Mark

[Chris Padilla]

When the smell from the oil is gone, it is dry or cured. This is especially true of boiled linseed oil. BLO takes a couple of days...maybe a week...all depends on temp and humidity.