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Bill Bolen
03-27-2008, 6:27 PM
I have decide to go ahead and try to build an articulated hollowing system like the Monster or the Elbo tool. I will be following the directions posted by CaptainEddie for most of the job. I have found that the proportions on the monster articulated hollowing system seem to be more appealing to me. I know several of you folks have purchased the monster system. Could someone give me the lengths of the 3 arm sections? No need to be exact close is good enough. Alas, if I fail at this I will be placing an order with Randy for his high quality set up, but I've just got to give it a try on my own!..Thanks in advance...Bill...

Fred Morton
03-28-2008, 8:10 AM
Hello Bill,

As this is my first post, I should introduce myself. I'm from Australia and I have been turning for about nine years (lurking here for a long time). Like you, I decided to build my own articulated hollowing tool. I have been working on it now for about six months, modifying it to suit my needs. The pics below may help you to build yours. My hollower is a cross between the elbow tool and the vicmarc tool, and is a fairly heavy duty version to suit my VL300 longbed lathe. The top arm is 17 inches long and the other two arms are each 12 inches in length. The tool shaft is a three quarter inch diameter chrome molly bar 29 inches long. It is fitted with a proform cutting tool on one end and a high speed steel round scraper on the other (scraper not shown in these pics). The way the shaft is mounted on the top arm allows me to adjust the length of tool overhang and is reversable, of course. This tool works well for me, I hope this post helps you.

Fredo :)

Bill Bolen
03-28-2008, 2:10 PM
First of all...welcome to the board! Quite a few really good folks are active here. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do..
Wow! That is quite a setup and very much what I have in mind. Yours does not look at all "home made"! Congrats on a beautifull job. Would you mind a PM or 3 from me as I progress. I have questions! I really like the reversable bit holder too. Great idea. Did you use a pipe flange as the base for your mount to the lathe bed? I hadn't thought of that and sure looks to simplify that end of the system!..Bill..

Fred Morton
03-28-2008, 5:51 PM
Bill,

I'll try to answer your questions, feel free to PM or post. I'm not sure what a pipe flange is. My base is a small two bearing hub and axle like a car/trailer wheel bearing hub and axle. I don't know what it's off, it's just what I had at the time. The first top arm I made (see pics below of original version) was not as successful or as user friendly as the reversable shaft modification. As you can see from the original pics, the whole tool has evolved somewhat.

Fredo :)

Bill Bolen
03-28-2008, 9:32 PM
Thanks for the additional pic's Fred. I guess the 2 most obvious changes are: new has the tool mounted on the side. I assume to get a longer and more adjustment friendly bit holder or boring bar? The second most obvious change is how the arms are stacked and bolted together. The old version they seem to alternated their horizontal alignment while the newer version seems to be stacked somewhat like a decending staircase? Could you give me the reasoning for the changes from old to new and what these changes have done for you? Fred, I really appreciate your sharing your rig here. It is a very interesting hollowing setup and just what I had in mind for myself...Bill...

Scott Hubl
03-30-2008, 9:29 PM
I'm Bumping this up because I too am interested.

Was thinking a captive design but maybe articulated if enough info is presented, I think I'd like one if it was made with the use of bearings, are they?:confused:

Seems no one with the "monster setup " replied to your questions Will.:eek:

Do you have a link for the CaptinEddie version Will?

Fred Morton
03-31-2008, 3:44 AM
Bill & Scott,

Spot on with the boring bar being adjustment friendly. The change to the tool arm stack up was to create more clearance for my arm and elbow above the base support of the tool. This again makes it a more user friendly hollowing rig.

My tool uses an automotive three piece Torrington thrust bearing between each arm (in a former life I was a mechanic) which makes it surprisingly smooth.

With this project my aim was to make a useful and usable tool cheaply. I made it from materials I had at home and so far without the proform cutter it owes me about $50. Don't know everything about hollowing, just learning as I go.

It works for me, good luck with yours.

Fredo :)

Bill Bolen
04-02-2008, 8:27 PM
Fred. You have been so helpful! don't know how to thank you enough. I cut my 1" solid bar stock to length today. Hope to start drilling over the wekend. I found a source on the net for oil impregnated bronze sleeve bearings. And will be putting teflon or nylon washers between the arms to limit any resistance. Does this sound like the right way to go to you? The bearing have a 5/8" outside diameter and a 3/8" inside diameter for the 3/8" bolts to pass through. I'm thinking locking nuts with the nylon cap to keep them in place. The pics have been most helpfull too..Bill..

Bill Bolen
04-02-2008, 8:41 PM
Scott: this is from a post on the other board. Captain Eddies link included..Bill..
I've developed a home made hollower that you can make for under $25.00. Using proven technology, this is a great hollower for many different tips.
for details go to www.bayouwoodturners.com/capsnotebook.htm (http://www.bayouwoodturners.com/capsnotebook.htm)
Avoid the hassel, go to http://www.bayouwoodturners.com/december2007/steelsnake.pdf (http://www.bayouwoodturners.com/december2007/steelsnake.pdf)

Fred Morton
04-05-2008, 6:29 PM
Bill, the bronze sleeve bearing and nylon-teflon washers should work just fine, and in standard sizes for easy drilling. Nyloc nuts make for easy adjustment between arms.

Keep track of how much you spend, and please post pics of your finished tool.

Fredo :)

Bill Bolen
04-06-2008, 2:49 PM
Thanks Fred. I'll post when finished. Wanted a ball bearing setup rather than the bronze sleeve but the $$ put me off. Better see if it works first, then I can convert to a ballbearing method for the joints. It warmed up so chores outside called me! Hope to get back to the shop when the rain hits next week. Thanks again for all the pics and explanation of "why" you did things in a particular manner. That makes all the difference to me...Bill..