Finishing Maple Countertops

[Paul Tinsen]

Hi
I am new to this forum and could not have found it at a better time. I have just completed the first of 2 counter tops made from 1.5"x1.5"x8' strips of hard maple. I will be putting the sink into this first top and want to know the best way to finish it. It will not be used as a cutting board but will have dirty dishes and such constantly on it. I would like to finish it with something durable. I am a simple stain and water based poly type guy so I would appreciate any help with this. I know I could just use cutting board oil but I feel I good finish will help it last. Thanks in advance for the help.

[Joe Chritz]

I couldn't resist using a maple counter as a cutting block so I would use mineral oil maybe mixed with beeswax. Even without using it that is still a good option.

Alternatively any film finish will be food safe once cured. I would recommend something easy to repair instead of anything with poly.

Waterlox original sealer would be a good choice. If I remember correctly salad bowl finish is just a thinned varnish.

Is this end grain or edge grain? The end grain orientation takes a ton of finish.

Joe

[Paul Tinsen]

Thanks Joe
The boards are edge grain

[Chris Padilla]

Paul,

I'm a fan of a wiping varnish called Velvit Oil. It is remarkably easy to use and fix and I personally LOVE what it does to wood. I am unsure of its use for a kitchen countertop, however, but it is quite durable as folks can use it for a floor finish.

Do a google search on it to find out more.

[Jim Becker]

Mineral oil or a mineral oil/paraffin wax mixture would be my choice simply because it's easily renewable, especially after you sand out any stains from time to time. Any film finish is going to get nasty, especially because of the sink...there will be discoloration that will get under it. That's one of the reasons that in a kitchen with wood counters, having an alternative material around the sink may be a good idea...

[Steve Schoene]

Chris--Velvit oil is a mix of oil and varnish, in the same category as Watco and is not a wiping varnish. As a conseqence it can't be allowed to build a film on the surface. All excess must be wiped off after giving it time to penetrate.

[Steve Schoene]

I'm going to suggest a different track, since I don't believe that wood that is not really, really protected from water is going to stand up to having a sink installed. Water easily finds its way under the rim of the sink and can easily lead to dark discoloration, and even rot. In my mind, the ease of repair doesn't offset the very minimal protection provided by mineral oil finishes which evaporate not cure or by thin oil/varnish mixes.

Frankly I'd suggest saving the wood countertops for non-sink applications.

But if you need to have a sink in a maple countertop, I'd start with a low viscosity epoxy. Several coats of that will penetrate and do a decent job of blocking liquid water transfer. (I'm not talking about the build a bar finish type epoxy.) Two or three coats of low viscosity epoxy, such as that by Smith & Co. won't really build a significant film on the surface. I would then top it with 3-4 coats of brushed on Behlen Rockhard varnish, or about 9-10 coats of Waterlox. This is a film finish, and care must be taken that it is not used as a cutting board, and any dings should be touched up immediately. But indoors without lots of UV to damage the varnish should give a decently long life.