Rounding the backside of bandsaw blades

[Kev Godwin]

Not long ago I bought "The New Complete Guide to the Band Saw" by Mark Duginske. On page 59 he describes rounding the back of bandsaw blades with a dry stone. Well, I gave it a try this weekend and was pleased with the results. It was easier to flow around curves and the author states it can increase blade life by preventing breakage.

If others haven't tried this, it sure did make cutting curves for me less resistive than before. Has anyone else tried this too?
Kev

[Jeff Wright]

I was told that Carbide blades should NOT have their backs rounding in this manner. As they say, this info came from reliable sources.

[Kev Godwin]

Jeff,
This book doesn't say anything about issues with carbide at all. How would that be an issue "from reliable sources"?
Kev

[Jeff Wright]

Jeff,
This book doesn't say anything about issues with carbide at all. How would that be an issue "from reliable sources"?
Kev

I don't recall the reason, just was told that using the stone on a carbide was not recommended. Maybe some others can comment on the accuracy (or lack thereof) of the info I was given. I am about to buy my first carbide blade for my MM20 and will ask the vendor their thinking on using the stone on carbide.

[nick brigg]

I don't recall the reason, just was told that using the stone on a carbide was not recommended. Maybe some others can comment on the accuracy (or lack thereof) of the info I was given. I am about to buy my first carbide blade for my MM20 and will ask the vendor their thinking on using the stone on carbide.

the blade itself is not made of carbide, just the teeth. rounding the back of the blade is recommended to do with every blade.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Kev.....2 weeks ago I set up my new MM-16 with the 1/2" stock blade that came with the b/s. When I first spun it up with the guides slightly away from the blades......Occasionally one of the guides was being hit by a spot on the weld. I used the stone to smooth out the weld and spent some time rounding the corners. It worked well for me. The "cheap" blade seemed to work fine after rounding the corners and smoothing the weld.

I have the same book.....bought it direct from Fox Chapel......Excellent book IMHO.

[Lance Norris]

Has anyone else tried this too?
Kev

I do it to every bandsaw blade I buy. It works great. I also have an 1/8" blade I turned upside down and stoned the set of the teeth away. This really helps to make smooth cuts. I cut a box shaped like the state of Ohio for my mother and it sure made things a lot easier when I came to sanding all the "ins" and "outs"

[John Thompson]

I have been rounding the back of carbon blades used for curves for years as it reduces drag. The difference is noticeable. Not as critical IMO on bi-metal I use for ripping and re-saw as those are straight-line cuts relying more on beam strengh with a wider blade.

I have no way of knowing the scientific answer if it helps on the rip or re-saw... but it doesn't hurt and might be doing some good. So.. why not?

Sarge..

[Brian Kent]

What kind of stone? I'm new to bandsaws. Also, I use the scary sharp system for hand tools so I do not have any stones.

…so to speak:).

[John Thompson]

What kind of stone? I'm new to bandsaws. Also, I use the scary sharp system for hand tools so I do not have any stones.

…so to speak:).

Any fine or medium whet-stone will work fine. You just hold it at an angle to the back of the blade and rotate it around to the other side with the blade running. And be careful.

Highland WW and others sell a stone mounted on a 6" or so paddle just for this purpose for around $9. The paddle keeps you fingers farther from the blade. If you have an existing stone or ceramic.. you can mount it on a padde if you desire.

Sarge..

[Eddie Darby]

Here is a page with a stone for rounding the back of the blade.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=30073&cat=1,41036

Instructions:

http://www.leevalley.com/shopping/TechInfo.aspx?p=42121

[Lance Norris]

What kind of stone? I'm new to bandsaws.

This is what I have:


http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11357

[Chris Padilla]

Can a good old metal file be used?

[Peter Quinn]

I'm use to rounding the back of the blades per Mark Duginski video when I use olsen or Lenox. When I ordered Timberwolfs from Suffolk i asked about rounding the backs, guy told me there blades don't have a burr on the back side and grinding the back might void the warranty on the weld for what its worth.

I use the Timberwolfs for resaw mostly, don't do too many tight curves, but haven't tried rounding those backs.

[Kev Godwin]

I should have mentioned this before. The book and the video warn not to do this with saw-dust in the enclosure. Stoning the blade causes a lot of sparks that could start a fire.:eek:

Ken, thanks for the comment on the weld on the blade. I just checked closely and found the same issue of contact at the thrust-bearing causing vibration. The stoning solved the problem and it is running real smooth.

[Tim Thomas]

This is a cool tip. I have a used band saw that needs some work before I can use it, but once it is up an running I will definitely be rounding over the backs of any blades I put on it. It just seems to make good sense.

A couple of questions:

1) Anybody have any thoughts on why the blades aren't made this way in the first place? Are the blade makers just saving money by not rounding them over because they think most consumers won't notice/don't care/don't know about rounded blade backs?

2) It seems to me that you could get similar benefits from other blades/tools that are used to cut curves. Any opinions on the safety/merit of rounding the backs of jigsaw blades, coping saw blades, scroll saw blades, etc. ?

[Lance Norris]

Any opinions on the safety/merit of rounding the backs of jigsaw blades?

I have seen it mentioned for jigsaw blades. I think one of the "shop tricks" books I have had a tip that was for jigsaw blades.