What's this dingus on the threading jig for?

[Jim Underwood]

http://www.atbq.qc.ca/jm2/thread.htm

If you look at Jean Michel's threading jig, you see a little hicky on the "tailstock" end just to the left of the crank handle that advances the chucked stock into the cutter. It's on the right hand side of the first photo. I can't make out the purpose for it unless it's to adjust the backlash in the threads.

Can anyone tell me?:confused:

[Dale Bright]

Could it be a stop for the advance?

[Jim Underwood]

I don't think so. This has to do with the nut on that end of the jig- you can just see the glint of the nut between the upright and this part. You can't see it, but there is a curved slot on this part that a hanger bolt goes through. I don't see a knob or nut on it though.

[John Gornall]

Can anyone tell me a source for the router cutter used to cut threads?

thanks.

[Jim Underwood]

There are several, but MSC would probably be the easiest to get it from.

There was a thread on threading:D a while back that had several sources...

[John Gornall]

I've searched but not found the thread on threading.

What's the cutter called - I have looked at MSC but haven't found it because I don't know what it's called.

Thanks.

[Pete Jordan]

I am in the process of building one of these rigs. Several members of my club have built them and they have given me tips. The first tip they gave me was to buy an x-y vise to hold the chuck instead of building the box. The second tip they was to buy this: http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/bestwoodtools_1993_659387 from Bestwood tools instead of buying a threaded rod. The ones that bought the rod said there was runout and they wished they had bought the threading head. The cutter that I bought from a member is called:
HSS Double Angle Cutter size 1" by 60 degrees.
This is a picture of one of the member's rigs.

[Dan Henry]

I have made a threading jig that works, I used an all thread rod 3/4 X16 TPI.

I used an dial indicator to set the travel of the piece in and out, my experience is that you need to set this very carefully in order for the threads to fit well, to tight and you can't turn the lid and to loose and the threads will not hold.

The extra piece looks like it might be a stop but I do not see what it would do for you as when you cut the threads the tennion sets the amount of the threads

I used a nut on one side and a bushing on the other with some nylon bolts screwed through the nut to reduce the slop in the nut and shaft.

Dan

[Jim Underwood]

I keep thinking that this hicky on the end is what controls the slop in the threads. I can't think of any other purpose for it. If it works like I think it does you can turn the nut with it until it "pre-loads" the box, and takes up the slack in the threaded rod. Once you lock it down then you have no more problem with slop...


So.. Pete,

Where is the rest of that threading rig? The part which holds, rotates, and advances the work piece?

[John Gornall]

New version: http://www.bestwoodtools.com/

[Jim Underwood]

There are several of these made commercially. In addition to the Bestwood Tools rig you point out, Bonnie Klein, Technatool, and Vermec make a version of this.

Unfortunately these rigs cost upwards of $300 and that's more than I paid for my lathe.:rolleyes:

I just invested in some 3/4 threaded rod and nuts, and am waiting from my spindle adapter to come in, and I'll make one myself...:D For around $50 (and almost $20 of that was for shipping!:().

[Jim Underwood]

Oh. Sorry. I missed that part. But your second link to that thing isn't working.

I'll post the results of my jig when I get it built. I made my own cutter too. We'll see how that works. Meanwhile here's a teaser...

I used a 5/8 piece of cold rolled steel in my banjo, drilled horizontally and tapped to 3/8NC, and a piece of 3/8 threaded rod to make threads on these scrap pieces. I turned and drilled these pieces to receive the 3/8 rod as a sort of "chuck". Anyways I stuck 'em on it and advanced them into the cutter with the 3/8 rod.

The homemade cutter worked surprisingly well considering the slop between a single threaded hole and a 3/8 threaded rod. The female part is kinda burned and pretty chewed up because Mimosa isn't very good for this obviously. But it does go together!

[Pete Jordan]

Hi Jim,

I don't know what happened to the link. The presenter at my group had a mixture of 50% beeswax and 50% mineral oil that he put on the wood before cutting the threads.

[Dave Stoler]

I,ve been very interested in threading for awhile now.Could anyone elaborate a bit.I see the baxter unit has limitations on the size(diameter) it can thread. It would be great to fabricate my own to accomadate a wider range.

[Jim Underwood]

http://homepage3.nifty.com/manasan/english/diy/diygr56.htm

http://www.wood.org.nz/thread1.php

I can also send you a PDF file with drawings of the Jean Michel jig pictured above.

[Jim Underwood]

:( NO answers to my question?

Here's a end view of the part what I'm asking about:

[John Gornall]

At one place in Jean Michel's pictures he says he was inspired by articles in FWW - Aug 1992. I wonder if the secrets are found there - anyone have this 16 year old issue?

He also references an article by "Mike Green & Peter Toch".

[Mike Golka]

Based on what I see and past experience with threaded rod of this type I'd say it was a means of illiminating the backlash.

[Allen Neighbors]

Jim, judging from the drawing, that slight movement would take up the slack in the threads.
Can you tell me... what is the "dresser" that gentleman made his thread cutter from? I'd like to get one. I plan on using a small router... just wondered if I could make a cutter like he did..????

[Dave Stoler]

And Jim...Is there any way you could put together a simple tutorial?Prices,pictures,soures.The one you posted showed a lot of metal machine work that would be out of my realm.
It seems to me more people would be interested in this great addition to lidded boxes.

[Walt Nollan]

I made Jean's threader and am very happy with it. The "Hicky Thingy" you are refering to is for slop. The threader works like a champ.

Walt

[Adam Howard]

Jim,

I found out over the weekend that the "Wood River" chuck inserts sold at Woodcraft will also fit the Supernova chucks.

Turns out that this would be a cheap/easy way to adapt a chuck to the 3/4-16 rod. The insert is $5, and would be much cheaper than most spindle adapters.

Of course that is only good if your chuck is a Supernova.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20042

Keep us posted!