Table Saw Restoration Complete- Take a look!

[Kyle Costlow]

I finished rebuilding, squaring, aligning, and otherwise setting up my saw.
It's an old craftsman 113.298240. I took everything apart, cleaned it up and learned a lot in the process. I want to thank everyone who helped me with their advice and encouragement, I am always open to more advice... and encouragement:D
Take a look;(this link has the before and during pics http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=77536)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/nomad85/DSC_2268.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/nomad85/DSC_2272.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/nomad85/DSC_2274.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/nomad85/DSC_2277.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/nomad85/DSC_2278.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/nomad85/DSC_2280.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/nomad85/DSC_2283.jpg
Trunion is aligned(as well as I can get it without buying PALS or a dial indicator)
And the fence is aligned and it is smooth as silk, I love it.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/nomad85/DSC_2285.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/nomad85/DSC_2286.jpg

The saw was able to pass the nickel test, so I am pretty pleased, I plan to make a workstation for it, so I wont have to use the ugly stand, and I want to integrate a router table into it.

Thanks for looking,
Kyle

[Norman Pyles]

Looks like you done good.:cool:

[Dave MacArthur]

Good job Kyle, that sure looks clean up inside there!

[scott spencer]

I've cleaned up or torn apart 3 of those saws. You did a beautiful job! ...that thing was pretty rough before!

[James Carmichael]

I have almost the same saw (except cast-iron web wings). Your's is looking way better, though. I used naval jelly to remove the rust.

Poor mans method of blade alignment:
If you have an accurate mitre gauge, you align the trunnion and fence to a mitre slot by squaring up a piece of wood, say 12x1x1, then screw a #8 wood screw into one end, as close to 90-degrees to the end as you can make it (the screw head will stick out of the end). Raise the blade all the way up, clamp the wood in your mitre gauge with the screw head up next the front of the blade. Find the tooth that comes closest to the screw head, then rotate the screw left until it just touches the tooth. Mark the tooth and move everything to the back and see if the relationship between the marked tooth and screw head are the same. If not, rotate the screw whichever way it needs to go until it is the same. This will show which way to move the rear trunion and, by knowing the TPI of the screw (I don't know TPI for a #8 of the top of my head), you can calculate how far out of alignment you are by the # rotations of the screw. Same method works for the fence.

I use an 80/20 extrusion with a 1/4x20 flat head bolt in one end for this. The 80/20 is dead square, and a 20-tpi bolt makes it easy to convert fractional turns to decimal inches.

Be advised, if you put a PALS kit on there, you will have to remove the bracket that the splitter/blade guard attach to (looks like you don't have those, anyway). Either that, or you won't be able to tilt the blade all the way to 45-degrees since the splitter-mounting bracket will hit the right-hand PALS L-bracket. I also had to drill a hole in the left side of the cabinet to access the PALS set screw, no room for an allen wrench from the back. Still, the PALS was worth it.

[Matt Meiser]

Looks good Kyle. I started off with a very similar saw and built several projects with it. Sears used to sell a dust collection shroud that went around the blade and had a shop-vac connection that gave reasonable chip collection.

[Tim Malyszko]

Great job on the saw restoration. It looks brand new. Enjoy the saw.

[BOB OLINGER]

Hey Kyle,

Nice job!! I appreciate someone who takes this route rather than always buying the new stuff.

[Tim Thomas]

Looks good Kyle. That saw should serve you well for years to come and you will probably enjoy it all the more because of the work you did to restore it. Now that it is all clean and shiny, there is only one thing left to do... get some sawdust on it!

[Jim Dunn]

Nice job Kyle. Have you given any thought on how to contain/remove saw dust as yet?

[Kyle Costlow]

Nice job Kyle. Have you given any thought on how to contain/remove saw dust as yet?
I picked up a big dust collector soon after I got the saw, but as of right now I don't have a way of hooking it up. Once I build the workstation and can implement a dust port into that, but the shroud Matt mentioned sounds like it would be great to have as well. Anyone know where I can find one/ what the model# is?
Thanks for the comments guys:D

Kyle

[Matt Meiser]

Back when I got mine, they carried them in the stores. You might try putting in the model number of your saw at Sears's parts web site and see if they show the shroud on the exploded diagrams. It only has a 2" dust port to mate with a shop vac. Your regular DC might not work as well with it.

[Kyle Costlow]

Thanks for the tip Matt

[Jim Mims]

Lookin' good!
I have the same saw and am mostly through my restoration. Now I need to get with it and post my pics!
One caveat, if you put PALS on, they interfere with the guard bracket that mounts to the trunion assembly. You won't be able to go past around 25 to 30 degrees. I decided to take my bracket off and put on a ZCI and MJ splitter.
It's amazing how well that link belt works, isn't it? <g>
For dust collection I put a table saw hood in the bottom http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16972 with a 12" section of 4" hose and a reducer to 2-1/2" to use with my craftsman wet-dry vac. It fit perfectly in the bottom of the saw and I was able to use the existing screw holes in the stand. I also made two joining plexiglass plates to cover up the back.
I just finished making a folding outfeed table a la Jim Becker, but now I need to cut a hole in it to allow for 45 degree cuts. I have some ideas I'm going to try out.
I also replaced the fence with a Mulecab Accusquare fence.
Finally, I received my Rockler TS router table insert and I'm going to take off the right wing and install the router table on that side. That is, just as soon as I can find the time!

- Jim

[glenn bradley]

Looking good. Here's the 113.298141 I used to run a couple years back. The 90lb sack of cement wrapped in plastic that I threw in the bottom really helped with stability.

84998

I added the RT extension and an MDF surface to replace the stamped steel wings. Nice, solid Emerson Electric saw. My dad still runs it. You can make ZCI's out of 1/4" hardboard with a 1/16" rabbet around the underside. I used 1/4" white melamine as it improved the visibility. You can sorta see it in the pic.

As to DC, I put a panel in where the base meets the leg-stand with a 4" stub to hook the hose to. The back I blocked off with a panel cut to clear the belt and rods. It stuck on with Velcro and removed easily for bevel cuts. The sawdust you see on the cement bag in the pic is from the router ;-)

[Bart Leetch]

Good job Kyle.

Question is the arbor the same diameter from the arbor flange all the way to the end?

[Kyle Costlow]

Good job Kyle.

Question is the arbor the same diameter from the arbor flange all the way to the end?

Whats a flange (that big washer?) I wouldn't know how to check that. It cuts really well, like a hot knife through butter:) Theres a nice pile of sawdust under the saw now. And I make a little push block.

[Bill Wyko]

I had one of those I got for a couple speakers about 15 years ago. I used it daily in my stereo shop for more than a decade. Traded it to my upholstery guy for some work. He still uses it 17 years later. That's one tough saw. Nice restore.

[Bart Leetch]

Whats a flange (that big washer?) I wouldn't know how to check that. It cuts really well, like a hot knife through butter:) Theres a nice pile of sawdust under the saw now. And I make a little push block.

Yes its the big washer on the left end of the arbor. If the arbor isn't the same size for its full length you won't be able to successfully use a stacked dado set because none of the chippers & outer blade will be concentric to the blade next to the flange.

concentric=having a common center, as circles or spheres.

[Richard Wolf]

Nice looking restore job. Use it well.

Richard

[Raymond Fries]

Also looks like it needs to get some dust on it ASAP.

I bought some of that bio shield stuff and it seems to work very well at keeping the rust off my stuff after it was removed.

Happy Sawing...:)

[Shawn Honeychurch]

I gotta say Kyle;

That looks great. Very inspiring, in fact I have a DeWalt/B&W 7740 RAS that was given to me that I was going to give away as it was "old" and did not work the greatest, but your work on this TS has inspired me, I found the manual online today and am going to tear it down and rebuild it.

Thanks for the inspiration and the great job. I should take a few picks myself and post before and after shots.

Shawn

[Steve Campbell]

Kyle you did a good job on your saw. I have the same saw. As far as dust control I used a two piece back that I made out of 1/4 inch hard board. For the hose connection I just enclosed the bottom of the saw and ran 4 inch pipe out far enough to get to with my flex hose.
Hope my pictures turn out for you.

Steve

[Kyle Costlow]

Kyle you did a good job on your saw. I have the same saw. As far as dust control I used a two piece back that I made out of 1/4 inch hard board. For the hose connection I just enclosed the bottom of the saw and ran 4 inch pipe out far enough to get to with my flex hose.
Hope my pictures turn out for you.

Steve

Thats a really good idea, I think I will use something like that until I build a custom base/workstation for my saw. thank you for the pictures they help quite a bit.

Kyle

[David Tiell]

Kyle,
Nice job on the restoration! you will enjoy using it. I used to have the same saw. I upgraded it by making a cabinet base for it, getting machined pulleys and a link-belt, and getting a good fence. It served me well for many years. With a good blade on it, it cut a surface as smooth as glass. The ONLY problem I ever had with it was it had a tendency to bog down cutting thick or very hard lumber. But I would still be using it if I hadn't gotten an unreal deal on a used 5hp cabinet saw last summer.

[Don Eddard]

Great restoration, Kyle. The only thing I see wrong with it is it's too clean, but I bet you've got a fix for that coming soon.

[Rick Potter]

My dad's saw, which I still have, was like yours. For dust, he used 1/4' plywood about 12-14" down each side screwed to the legs, with a solid bottom. He put a sliding door on an opening in the bottom. In effect, he had a solid version of those fabric bags they sell for the bottom of contractor saws, except he just pulled the slide out to empty it out.

He had no dust collector, wheeled the saw out in the driveway to use it. I can attest that the collector box did collect quite a bit of sawdust, as it was packed when I cleaned up the saw after his death.

It looks to me like it would be easy to put an opening on the box for a DC fitting.

Rick Potter

[Michael Wildt]

Hi Kyle,

Very very nice job on the restoration. You did a great job.

You should consider making a zero clearance insert as well. That will make ply cuts perfect.

Sorry have to say this;
Last but not least please do be careful with the tool. You do not have a blade shield so watch those fingers. You could make one fairly easy though. I think shop notes had one a while back. Think about how you need to do each cut everytime so you keep it safe.

Michael

[Jim Mims]

Thats a really good idea, I think I will use something like that until I build a custom base/workstation for my saw. thank you for the pictures they help quite a bit.
Kyle
As you can see from Steve's picture, putting a brace down low on the legs helps stabilize them quite a bit. I have a friend with the same saw who used aluminum angle, and it helps when pushing the saw around on those cheap wheels.
And then Glenn went a step further and put a bag of sand on his!
- Jim

[Steve Campbell]

Thanks Jim I should have said something about the bracing low on the legs of any contractors saw. It really helps a lot. I don't know if I got lucky or what but my saw with the bracing will pass the nickle test. I have had the saw since I bought it new in the early 80s'. It still has the original belt and the cheap cast pulleys.
One more thing on the motor Kyle. If it is the same motor I have on mine you should look for the plugs on the ends of the motor and make sure you oil them once in a while. Your motor will last a lot longer.

Steve

[Kyle Costlow]

One more thing on the motor Kyle. If it is the same motor I have on mine you should look for the plugs on the ends of the motor and make sure you oil them once in a while. Your motor will last a lot longer.

Steve

What do the "plugs" look like? Is there a diagram I could look at to see where I need to apply oil?
Thanks

[Jim Mims]

What do the "plugs" look like? Is there a diagram I could look at to see where I need to apply oil?
Thanks
Someone correct me if I'm way off, but I'm almost certain they're the red 'plug' on your picture of your motor.
- Jim

[J. Z. Guest]

Kyle, looks great! A nice used saw and a little elbow grease can be quite nice. The old craftsmanship and whatnot.

Now here's the real test: (put your nickels away)

Rip a 4' piece of 12/4 hard maple without any burning.

You'll need a rip blade, a well-aligned splitter, and a well-aligned fence. If you don't use some form of splitter/riving knife, you're asking for a piece of wood to the face at 100 mph. (I didn't see one in the pix) Some folks integrate a riving knife into their shop-built zero clearance inserts.

I use the factory one, and just keep an eye (and a socket wrench!) on the alignment. ;)

[Greg Peterson]

Someone correct me if I'm way off, but I'm almost certain they're the red 'plug' on your picture of your motor.
- Jim

That looks like an overload reset button to me. Probably best not to put any oil in there.

[Jim Mims]

That looks like an overload reset button to me. Probably best not to put any oil in there.
Fnooork (the sound you make when what you're drinking comes out of your nose :eek:). You're probably right.
I had a few minutes, so I did some searching for woodworking machinery motor lubrication advice and found precious little. Looking through the Reliance, Leeson and Baldor sites was an exercise in futility for anything less than 7-1/2 hp motors.
I did find this in an Amazon preview of the book "Table Saw Techniques: Use Your Saw Like A Pro"
"As far as other lubrication is concerned, the arbor bearings are typically sealed and permanently lubricated. Apply grease only if there are fittings near the bearings. Inspect the motor housing for information about oiling, and follow instructions using the proper machine oil. Most newer motors have sealed bearings that are lubricated for the life of the bearings."

Another reference sited oiling bearings for woodworking machinery in a process plant every 9500 hours. That'd be a long time for me.:)

I'm of the opinion that the 1 to 2 hp motors we're using in these contractor saws wouldn't normally need lubrication.
- Jim

[Steve Campbell]

Hi again Kyle. You may not have the same motor as I do but on mine there are two plugs just above the bearings at each end of the motor. My motor uses bronze bushings rather than ball bearings. I use just old plain 3in1 oil on mine at least a couple times a year. My motor will actually start to slow down if I don't remember.
I'll try to post a picture that will show the small plug on the side. It's rather small and yellow in color. Hope you can see it.

Steve

[Kyle Costlow]

Rip a 4' piece of 12/4 hard maple without any burning.

I doubt I'll ever use wood that thick(at least in the short term) I wouldn't even know where to find any.