I need a torque wrench, what should I get?

[Kyle Costlow]

My dad needs a torque wrench to get his propeller on his boat set right, its a rather large bolt and needs to be set at 55 lbs. He is really picky about details and pretty frugal with cash, what wrench(brand size) should he get?

[Bruce Page]

Proto & Snap-On both make excellent torque wrenches but a good ol' Sears Craftsman will do the job much cheaper.

[Kyle Costlow]

What size would he want?

[Marcus Isaacson]

The size depends on what sockets you are using, most common are 1/4. 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4. These are not the size of the bolt that the socket will attach to, but the diameter of the hole where the socket and the wrench meet.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Kyle.....A good Craftsman torque wrench will do the job. I'd get the plain old "clicker" style. A word about using them. I have and use torque wrenches that are required to be calibrated annually. I've taken a short course in the proper method of using one.

If as you say you need to tighten something to 55 lbs-ft. Set the torque wrench to 28 lbs.-ft. Ease into it to the point to where the torque wrench clicks...or if it has a gauge on it...until you read 28 lbs.-ft. Then set the wrench for 55 lbs.-ft. Ease into to it and stop as soon as it clicks or you get the correct reading. Studies have shown that overshooting increases the torque dramatically. You want to approach the final value slowly in a controlled fashion.

[Kyle Costlow]

We don't have any sockets yet, what size would you recommend based on the application? Fairly large bolt recessed a bit, and it needs 55lbs of torque.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Kyle.... I have 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive. I'd recomment a 1/2" drive.

Make sure the torque wrench will adjust to the 55 lbs-ft before you buy it. My 1/4" and 3/8" wouldn't go that high.

[Kyle Costlow]

Thanks for the advice Ken

[Gene O. Carpenter]

Kyle,
"Tork" Wrenches can be fairly pricy, even a good ol Sears Torque wrench can cost you a few bucks..I've got one, an S&K, that I bought back in 1974-75 and it's only been used once to Tork bolts in a 351 Cleveland that I rebuilt..
It's there if I ever need one again, but at 72 I don't see myself Torkin head bolts anymore..
I think you'd be better off going to a rent all center and rent one for the weekend..
They come in 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" drive..The Torque values range from a few inch pounds to very high ft pounds.. So if you go to rent or to buy one just tell the counter man/woman what you need it for and they should know what you need..
Read the instructions though or it will be too tight which could casuse breakage or too loose which could loosen and fall off and goodbye prop hello Coast Guard or SeaTow...
Gene

[Bruce Page]

Kyle, the clicker type wrenches are nice and easy to use but the old beam style are still good for what your father wants to do.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944690000P?keyword=torque+wrench (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944690000P?keyword=torque+wrench)

[Randal Stevenson]

I worked as a mechanic for a while (family mechanics garage when he was short handed). From my experience, for home, I would buy a Craftsman. The dial have a lifetime warranty, while the clicker or newer digital don't. But any of them can be off. I helped a friend with some stuff, and his are required to be recalibrated once a year (F.A.A regulations). He took mine and his son's for calibration. My BRAND NEW, never been used Proto, was way off. My others (Craftsman, Hazet, S&K? (multiple)) were all almost spec. They are backed off after use, and one had been sitting for five years. His son's HF cheapie (originally bought for one job while his Snap~on was on order), was more accurate (on the money actually) then my new Proto. I wasn't happy. (except that this was done for nothing since I wouldn't take any money from him).

Ken's advice is good. Other uses that you will find for them is your tires lug nuts. Try to find one in the range of the boat to the lug nuts.

[J. Z. Guest]

I bought this one from Home Depot and am very happy with it. It has an extra long handle and a ratcheting head.

It is the click style, 1/2" drive, and it worked beautifully on the axle bolts on my motorcycle.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would second the Craftsman. It seems like Craftsman power tools have a bad reputation, but the lifetime guarantee on their hand tools has always been a high selling point for me, and I have yet to break any of their hand tools, despite trying hard to do so a couple of times.

Doc

[Bruce Page]

I worked as a mechanic for a while (family mechanics garage when he was short handed). From my experience, for home, I would buy a Craftsman. The dial have a lifetime warranty, while the clicker or newer digital don't. But any of them can be off. I helped a friend with some stuff, and his are required to be recalibrated once a year (F.A.A regulations). He took mine and his son's for calibration. My BRAND NEW, never been used Proto, was way off. My others (Craftsman, Hazet, S&K? (multiple)) were all almost spec. They are backed off after use, and one had been sitting for five years. His son's HF cheapie (originally bought for one job while his Snap~on was on order), was more accurate (on the money actually) then my new Proto. I wasn't happy. (except that this was done for nothing since I wouldn't take any money from him).

Ken's advice is good. Other uses that you will find for them is your tires lug nuts. Try to find one in the range of the boat to the lug nuts.
One thing a lot of people don't know about clicker torque wrences (any brand) is you must ALWAYS back off the dial to zero or it's lowest reading when not in use.

[Mike Heidrick]

I would second the Craftsman. It seems like Craftsman power tools have a bad reputation, but the lifetime guarantee on their hand tools has always been a high selling point for me, and I have yet to break any of their hand tools, despite trying hard to do so a couple of times.

Doc

I do not believe the torque wrenches from Craftsman have a lifetime warranty. Looks 90 day day general warranty on them now. May want to check up on that first if that matters to you. Craftsman club can get you an additional 10% off during the craftsman club weekends, and those usually fall when the tools are on sale anyway at usually 10% off.

[Kyle Costlow]

Thanks everyone, I love this site, all kinds of experience to go around.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

One thing a lot of people don't know about clicker torque wrences (any brand) is you must ALWAYS back off the dial to zero or it's lowest reading when not in use.



Here! Here!

[Ben Cadotte]

Work for an airline as a maintenance inspector. We have mostly snap-on torque wrenches. But I know of 2 cheapie 1/2" click type wrenches we have. They both were $35 no name specials from local auto parts stores. Both of them when they were sent for Calibrations were both within limits from the factory. We have to keep calibrated tools records and these 2 wrenches have never broken or gone out of cal. Although they are probalby used the least. Really amazes me as the snap-ons are breaking quite often, mostly from mis-use.

Rules for Torque Wrenches (click type).

Store at lowest setting!

Never pull past the click!!! You have some wiggle room but once it releases don't pull more. Say you need to line up cotter pin hole after a certain torque. Increase torque on the wrench till you get it lined up (or then switch to normal ratchet after initial torque set).

Check the wrench!! not all are 2 way wrenches (some only work in tighten direction - turning clockwise). Never use these to remove bolts!! They have an arrow on the handle. Do not use against the arrow!

Dropping the tools can move it out of calibration.

I would say if your only doing the prop, a cheap one from local auto parts store will be just fine.

And if you really want to be cheap. A 55# pull on a 1' long wrench is 55 ft lbs. So an accurate fish scale can be used. :) And I said accurate, not one of those scales used to tell some of those tall fish stories. :D:D

[Dave Lehnert]

I worked as a mechanic for a while (family mechanics garage when he was short handed). From my experience, for home, I would buy a Craftsman. The dial have a lifetime warranty, while the clicker or newer digital don't. But any of them can be off. I helped a friend with some stuff, and his are required to be recalibrated once a year (F.A.A regulations). He took mine and his son's for calibration. My BRAND NEW, never been used Proto, was way off. My others (Craftsman, Hazet, S&K? (multiple)) were all almost spec. They are backed off after use, and one had been sitting for five years. His son's HF cheapie (originally bought for one job while his Snap~on was on order), was more accurate (on the money actually) then my new Proto. I wasn't happy. (except that this was done for nothing since I wouldn't take any money from him).

Ken's advice is good. Other uses that you will find for them is your tires lug nuts. Try to find one in the range of the boat to the lug nuts.

Where and how do you get one re calibrated? What does it cost?

[Mike Heidrick]

And if you really want to be cheap. A 55# pull on a 1' long wrench is 55 ft lbs. So an accurate fish scale can be used. :) And I said accurate, not one of those scales used to tell some of those tall fish stories. :D:D


IGFA big fish records require the scale to be calibrated as well.

[Norman Pyles]

Might check out Auto Zone, they may loan you one.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

We don't have any sockets yet, what size would you recommend based on the application?
Craftsman has these wonderful sockets with great big numbers on them - something my tired old eyes really, and I mean really appreciate.;)

[Mickey Finn]

We don't have any sockets yet, what size would you recommend based on the application? Fairly large bolt recessed a bit, and it needs 55lbs of torque.


The socket size you need is dependent on the type of motor you have... Prop nuts come in different sizes based mainly on how big the motor is.

Before you go to the store, call a local marina/boat dealership and tell them what year/make/model of outboard you have... ask them to look it up and they'll be able to tell you what size of prop nut you have.

Once you know the size, I'd suggest that you buy a "deep well" model.

[Ben Cadotte]

Hello,

Craftsman has these wonderful sockets with great big numbers on them - something my tired old eyes really, and I mean really appreciate.;)

Those are nice.

Forgot to say earlier that a 3/8" drive socket will be more than strong enough to do 55 ft lb of torque. But you may find that the nut is large enough that 3/8" drive tools dont go that large. So the best bet is to see what size the nut is and go from there.

Also forgot to mention, that the nut may be reverse thread. They do this so the running torque of the motor keeps the nut on. So check the threads before you start.

[Randal Stevenson]

One thing a lot of people don't know about clicker torque wrences (any brand) is you must ALWAYS back off the dial to zero or it's lowest reading when not in use.


You might try to call a smaller airport around you (personal planes), as they are apt to work on thier own and know who to go to. I was trying to find someone locally when my friends came due. His son told him and grabbed them out of my box before I knew. Since I baby them, and don't drop/misuse them I haven't had it done since. Only the new one (tighter specs then the others) was off (PO'd me). Since I didn't pay, I don't know. Some of the higher $$$ sellers, will calibrate them for you for shipping both ways and a fee.

Otherwise on the high end, Sears sells a machine that is used for calibration, but I didn't want to spend the money to do that.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

snap on ...

[John Newell]

snap on ...

With respect, massive overkill for this project. They start at over $200 (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=954&store=snapon-store). I have been disassembling and reassembling motor vehicles for almost 40 years and currently have four torque wrenches in my roller cab. There's a good chance that the job here (installing the retaining nut on the prop) doesn't even need a torque wrench, in real life.(tm)

Given the infrequent use here, I'd get a Craftsman beam-type wrench. It's cheaper, it's likely to be at least as accurate, it won't go out of calibration if you don't take care of it, and if you do something that does foul it up, you will be able to see that with your naked eyes.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Where and how do you get one re calibrated? What does it cost?


Dave,

I work for a very large corporation. Once a year I send my tools in and they get them calibrated. All of my tools....oscilloscope, DVM, radiation meters, RF power meters and yes my set of torque wrenches are required to be calibrated annually and tied back to the National Bureau of Standards test devices for the certification.

I don't know who does it but I"ll try to find out.

[Steven Wilson]

Check out Team Torque in Bismark, ND. They're good, quick, reasonably priced, and will work on Craftsman product. I send my three in every couple of years just to keep me honest.

[Dick Strauss]

Kyle,
I bought a Pittsburgh clicker style torque wrench a few years ago at an auto parts store. I think it was under $20. I noticed that HF has the same 1/2" drive version for $10 right now. They are rated for 10-150 ft lbs (+/-4%) with an 18" length. This should be close enough for your purposes.

As others have said, always reset the wrench to zero with this type of wrench for continued accuracy.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=239


Good luck,
Dick

[Jason Roehl]

One thing not yet mentioned in this thread is that torque specifications are always to be met in motion. That is, you should read the torque or come up to it while you are still turning the fastener. Has to do with the differences in the coefficients of static and kinetic friction...

I'm guessing that if it needs to be only 55 ft-lbs on a prop that spins hard and fast, that it's not a real critical torque spec...snugging it good with a 1/2" drive ratchet and the appropriate socket will probably put you in the ballpark.

[Chris Parks]

One thing a lot of people don't know about clicker torque wrences (any brand) is you must ALWAYS back off the dial to zero or it's lowest reading when not in use.

Not quite right. There is one style that does not rely on that and can be left at any setting. They are renowned for their accuracy also...

http://www.warrenandbrown.com.au/site2007/PrecisionTools/ProductTree.aspx?From=Cat&ProductId=61

[Ken Fitzgerald]

One thing a lot of people don't know about clicker torque wrences (any brand) is you must ALWAYS back off the dial to zero or it's lowest reading when not in use.


Not quite right. There is one style that does not rely on that and can be left at any setting. They are renowned for their accuracy also...

http://www.warrenandbrown.com.au/site2007/PrecisionTools/ProductTree.aspx?From=Cat&ProductId=61


Chris......Bruce is referring to CLICKER style not BEAM style.:)

[Jude Tuliszewski]

For occasional use, I also recommend a beam type torque wrench. Good enough accuracy but can take some banging around and inexpensive.
As has been said, a “clicker” type can be put out of acceptable calibration with just normal handling. Also as has been said with clickers you don’t jerk it, or pull hard on it, but slow smooth motion until it “clicks” or breaks, then you let off the pressure. In aviation (especially military) it is a big deal, as the fastener is not just being tightened but stressed and if not within range could cause fastener failure and that could make for a real bad day if in the wrong place.

[Steve Campbell]

Kyle If you are working on an outboard motor the spec on mine says at least 55 LBS. I don't think it is that critical. Most of the guys I know have never used a torque wrench on props. The thing with putting on a prop is you have to line up a cotter pin hole or a tab that you bend to lock them on the shaft. Your 55 LBS may not let you line these up.
I use a cheap plastic prop wrench that you can buy at any marine dealer. Just give it a good tug and don't get too worried about actual numbers.
One other thing to do. Make sure you remove the prop from time to time and make sure you put a little marine grease on the prop shaft before putting the prop back on.
Hope this helps.

Steve

[Michael Wildt]

Not to start a 'torque war', but there is also rules if the thread is lubed or not. Normally the thread on the bolt/shaft is not lubed. Big difference between the two.

Second, get a socket for the nut/bolt that has the exact same number of sides. So if it is a hex nut with 6 sides, get a 6 point socket, not a 12 point socket. The 12 point will end up rounding the nut.

Michael

[John Newell]

I'm guessing that if it needs to be only 55 ft-lbs on a prop that spins hard and fast, that it's not a real critical torque spec...snugging it good with a 1/2" drive ratchet and the appropriate socket will probably put you in the ballpark.

Not to mention that I can absolutely guarantee that the fastener threads on in the reverse direction of rotation. It just plain ain't gonna loosen in real life. This is *not* like torquing down a cylinder head... ;)

[Mike Heidrick]

Kyle, Craftsman club is this weekend starting Saturday and the torque wrenches (3 different mdles) will be $59. Since you probably cannot get a CC number that fast, PM me and I will send you my number you can use if you decide to go Craftsman.

[Randal Stevenson]

Kyle, Craftsman club is this weekend starting Saturday and the torque wrenches (3 different mdles) will be $59. Since you probably cannot get a CC number that fast, PM me and I will send you my number you can use if you decide to go Craftsman.

If you sign up for it during a Craftsman club sale, they are supposed to give you the discount.

[Loren Hedahl]

The clicker type was introduced so you could set the dial initially, then do the actual tightening without having to see the dial, since you can feel the click. This is really good in dark spaces, constricted spaces, etc.

But for tightening a prop, who cares? You can see the scale of a beam torque wrench just fine, and it is usually far cheaper.

If it were my outboard motor, I would likely put a bit of "lock-tight" on the threads and not worry about it. You can get the stuff at an auto supply.

Now if this is a prop on an airplane, then I would use a calibrated torque wrench in a certified calibration program and not worry about the cost.

[David Axmann]

I'll echo some of the other replies and say don't bother.
If your dad has gone this long without the need for a torque wrench he doesn't need one now just for a prop nut.

[Gene O. Carpenter]

:confused:
One thing a lot of people don't know about clicker torque wrences (any brand) is you must ALWAYS back off the dial to zero or it's lowest reading when not in use.

Bruce,
Thanks for revealing that! The only time I ever used mine I twisted back from the setting but but not to "0"! That means it's been laying there in it's tube all these years..Guess I should see about having it re-calibrated. Never know when it might be called upon to tork a wooden nut!!!:confused:
Gene

[Kyle Costlow]

I agree that he ought to just make it tight, and not worry about, but he is very very detail oriented(he's an architect) and I don't think he will see it the same way. Thanks for all the replies I think he liked the suggestion for a beam style wrench.

[Chris Parks]

Chris......Bruce is referring to CLICKER style not BEAM style.:)

It is a clicker style. This type of beam wrench has a sliding settable scale stop against which the beam deflects and triggers a pin which clicks at the pre-set tension. They are known as one of the more accurate types available and certainly the quickest to reset to different tensions and without the hassle of having to reset them to zero every time they are rested between jobs. They do not have all the bells and fancy whistles so don't appeal to a lot of people. Besides that they were an Australian invention so that would mean they are no good, certainly not as good as a Snap-on which break often.

[Bruce Page]

Chris, I have never seen that style before and I’ve been around industrial level torque wrenches a long time.
As Ken said, I was referring to the more common “micrometer barrel” style.

Learn something new everyday! http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon14.gif

[Chris Parks]

Chris, I have never seen that style before and I’ve been around industrial level torque wrenches a long time.
As Ken said, I was referring to the more common “micrometer barrel” style.

Learn something new everyday! http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon14.gif

No worries Bruce. I guess you guys had not seen them before but they really are the simplist click wrench available and they are super accurate. The big plus is you don't have to set them to zero and they are the quickest to reset a tension reading on without any doubt. I will back them against any wrench available in the world for ease of use, accuracy and speed of changing tension settings.