Solid core door work bench top?

[Jeremy Taylor]

Good morning all! I've got a 30" wide door that I want to cut down to about 5' for a work bench top. I know it's not real wood in there, but that compressed particle board looking stuff. I thought about adding a solid wood edging after I cut it down but wasn't sure if biscuits would hold in that crap, especially on the sides of the door that would be cut. I also wanted to add a small vice of some sort but had concerns of how to attach it for the same reasons. I don't think dog holes are an option but the vice would help.

I know, I know, I'll make a real bench one day but just don't have the time or space right not.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jeremy

[NICK BARBOZA]

i actually just did that. Im in commercial construction and you wouldn't believe the number of solid core wood doors i have sent to the dump... I took a couple home and with one i made a 3'x7' out feed for my table saw. It works GREAT. i use this space as an assembly table as well because it is so big. i have not added a vise or dog holes, but i do think a vise would work ok. I would be careful trying to attach to the "core" of those doors.

Good luck,
Nick

Here's mine:
http://www.nwbwoodworks.com/images/outfeedtable011.jpg

http://www.nwbwoodworks.com/images/outfeedtable013.jpg

[James Suzda]

One of my benches is made out of a solid core door that I applied two layers of 3/4 inch MDF over the top and edged with oak. This made a very nice heavy, solid work table.
The nice thing about using a solid core door is that they are pretty straight and flat.

[Prashun Patel]

Nothing wrong with using a door. They're made to be flat and stable. Even holow core doors are basically torsion boxes and make fantastic assembly tables.

Biscuits/dowels and glue should hold just fine. In fact, I'd probably cut the edgeband 1/8 or 1/4 proud on the top to make a lip for a drop in 1/8 or 1/4" top board that can be removed when it gets mucky.

[Jim Becker]

Solid core doors can make very nice bench surfaces and as stated already, tend to be pretty flat from the get-go. But you still need to provide a proper support system to keep them that way, the same as any other benchtop material.

[Rod Torgeson]

Jeremy....Here is a picture of my workbench made from a solid core door. It was free. I have been using it for about 10 years now and it has held up very well. The legs are solid 4 x 4s and the horizontal supports are 2 x 4s. It is very solid and heavy. I used the other part of the door for my router table top.

Rod<---in Appleton, WA

[Keith Beck]

Jeremy,

Here's my outfeed table/workbench/lumber storage made with a solid core door.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/ldoforcno/DSC03211.jpg

Kinda hard to tell in this picture, but it does have dogholes in it. I use the orange dogs that came with my Black and Decker Workmate. Not very traditional, but they work great. As you can see, it's about time for me to replace the hardboard panel on the top.

I got the door from a local Habitat for Humanity (it was a heavy sucker!) and the base is all construction lumber, so overall, it was a pretty cheap project. But, it has paid dividends. I'd be lost without it.

If you're interested, I can probably dig up the plans somewhere.

Keith

[Jeremy Taylor]

Thanks guys for the feedback and photos! I'll be jumping on cutting this thing down and edge banding w/ some hardwood this weekend.

Jeremy

[Jay Yoder]

Jeremy,
good luck! let us know how it goes. I picked up a 36" with solid core to rip in 1/2 and use as a base to mount my new Jet 1220 and extension table. It should be interesting to say the least!

[Bruce Wrenn]

I use a solid core door for my out feed / work bench. One of the nice things is I can screw something to the door to hold it for machining. Wouldn't want to do that to one of those pretty laminated maple tops.

[glenn bradley]

i actually just did that. Im in commercial construction and you wouldn't believe the number of solid core wood doors i have sent to the dump

Oh, if you weren't on the opposite coast, I'd offer my solid core door pick up service for some of those bound for the dump.

[Jules Dominguez]

You need an apron under the door for support, as Jim said (2x4's work fine) but I'd strongly recommend setting the apron back 2 1/2" or so from the edge so you can conveniently use clamps around the whole perimeter of the table.

[John Bush]

Hi Jeremy,
I made a bench using a traditional style base from fir I had in the pile, maple frame to support an end vice with dogs and a side vice, and a solid core door with a masonite top. I attached the door so I could replace it when it got too trashed, but after 15+ years of use for woodworking, chainsaw sharpening, lawnmower repair, welding, etc, I have grown to appreciate the "patina" it has developed. I remember when I first made it I would wax and polish it like fine furniture, and when my daughters spilled some paint on it when doing a school project I was furious. I had forgotten it was just a bench!!! I made it to fit my old shop, but now that I have more room I would have made it as large as possible. Pics galore:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/bushhog104/PICT0200-1.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/bushhog104/PICT0198-1.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/bushhog104/PICT0197-1.jpg

[John Terefenko]

I was on a jobsite where they were throwing solid core oak doors out. They were a little blemished but for a work bench they were great. I used "T" tracks instead of bench dogs. One heavy table though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/JTTHECLOCKMAN/File0046.jpg

[Richard M. Wolfe]

If you are looking for a solid core door call around to the lumberyards and home centers. Sometimes they have to send them back but many times they pile up somewhere in back until they get tossed. I got one with a lightly dinged corner for around ten bucks and it works great for what I do. As has been said, allow enough of a lip around the perimeter to give enough room for clamping. Stretchers of 2x4 or 2x6 under a base should provide plenty of support or you could lalminate a couple together and provided you had a stout enough base it should take anything you care to throw at it. I fastened mine to the base with L-brackets - just enough to keep it from shifting; as beat up as it's gotten I need to take it loose and flip it to get a fresh surface to trash. If you had a large enough supply I don't see why you couldn't rip them down, put the cut surface to the wall and use them for countertops. Kinda overkill, but as long as it was cheap enough....