Router table fence adjustments

[Joe Vee]

Hello,

I have a rockler router table with a split fence. I was wondering if there is a better way to adjust the fences. Currently, I measure from the front of the table to each half of the fence. It is a pain doing this and keeping the distance between the fence and router bit. (Like making a 1/4 inch rabbit for instance) Is there a better method besides spending $100 of dollars on an Incra or Freud product? As always, thanks for the help.


Joe

[Ralph Barhorst]

There is no need to get both sides of the fence exactly the same distance from the front of the table. I normally just lock one end of the fence and adjust the other end until the fence is the correct distance from the bit.

Remember the bit is round and doesn't care where the front edge of the table is. The bit is content just knowing that it is positioned the correct distance from the fence.:)

[glenn bradley]

Ralph has got it. That's why there generally isn't a tape on router tables. I use setup blocks (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45089&cat=1,240,41064)a lot and would recommend them to anyone. A great tip though is to use a known object for measuring. For instance, you want 1/4"? Lay a 1/4" jobber drill bit between the router bit's cutting edge and move the fence up to touch it, presto. This can help on micro adjust requirements: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=39333

[Bill Huber]

The front of the fence is split but the main part of the fence is not, correct?

So just as Ralph stated, lock one end and adjust the other end to where it needs to be. I bought a depth gauge from Wixy and use it for those adjustments, it really makes it much easier and spot on.

http://www.wixey.com/heightgauge/index.html

[Peter Quinn]

As others have said given the path of the bit forms a circle, a straight line can be tangent to that circle at only one finite point. Very simple geometry.

If you are discusing a split fence where one or both fences are adjustable for jointing then you simply set the outfeed fence flush with the deepest point of the cutting arc and set the infeed fence for depth of cut, or use a straight edge laid across both when a parralel fence is needed.

The only time the relationship of a fence to a point other than the cutting circle of the bit matters is when using a miter slot guided jig or sled.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I use set-up blocks all the time, available from Rockler or Woodcraft, as well as Lee Valley. I use the 5" bars from Woodcraft, which is a big improvement over the 2" ones you see on Router Workshop on PBS, in my opinion. The longer bars are not that much more expensive, maybe $5, but easier to bridge the gap around the bit.

Doc