Edging a new workbench top...

[Eric Roberts]

I have a work-area top that consists of hardboard bottom, sheet of 1/2" plywood sheet of 1/2" MDF, hardboard.

I'm calling it a work area vs. a workbench cuz I only have room for one workbench/area so I'm choosing to have one 4X8 work area/bench that rolls....so I found a simple plan online that sits on collapsible casters...it seems to be working out great so far...I can't have too much weight...

1. What should I use to edge the top and how should it be fastened (glue, nails, screws) ??

2. What would I use to bond the bottom layers with? Glue, contact cement, ?

3. People have mentioned having the hardboard top as an insert that can be replaced over time...
a. I assume the edging would allow for a lip that the hardboard lies in??
b. If I drill bench dog holes (they would be lightweight variety, like the plastic Rockler ones) what happens with these holes if I someday replace the top? Do I re-drill the holes up from the bottom??

Thanks for any advice!!


ER

[Nancy Laird]

Eric, I can speak only from our own experience, and others' mileage may vary, but here's what we did (inserts into your post):


I have a work-area top that consists of hardboard bottom, sheet of 1/2" plywood sheet of 1/2" MDF, hardboard.

I'm calling it a work area vs. a workbench cuz I only have room for one workbench/area so I'm choosing to have one 4X8 work area/bench that rolls....so I found a simple plan online that sits on collapsible casters...it seems to be working out great so far...I can't have too much weight...

1. What should I use to edge the top and how should it be fastened (glue, nails, screws) ?? We edged our workbench, and other flat work surfaces, with hard maple, mitered corners, biscuits, and glue.

2. What would I use to bond the bottom layers with? Glue, contact cement, ? Plain old yellow glue should work well - just put something heavy on the surfaces as you glue them up.

3. People have mentioned having the hardboard top as an insert that can be replaced over time...
a. I assume the edging would allow for a lip that the hardboard lies in?? Yes.
b. If I drill bench dog holes (they would be lightweight variety, like the plastic Rockler ones) what happens with these holes if I someday replace the top? Do I re-drill the holes up from the bottom?? Use your old top as a template for re-drilling the bench-dog holes.

Thanks for any advice!!


ER

I'm sure that others will have other suggestions/advice, solutions.

Nancy

[Joe Chritz]

I use whatever I have handy for edging. One has hickory, a couple with oak, one with maple (that is being torn apart for a torsion box since it sagged BAD) , a torsion box assembly table has cherry and one thing has mixed wood.

I normally use just PVA (yellow) glue and clamps. Sometime mitered corners, sometimes butt joints.

I don't know the purpose for the hardboard on the bottom but I attach large sheets (I have one 4x7.5 foot, two layers 3/4") from the center with screws. Predrill and countersink a grid of screws. I countersink the "between" side a bit so any mushroom created by the screw has a place to go. Glue it up if you want, flip it upside down and start in the center and work out. This works especially well if you can trim afterwards. Hardboard I would just pin on with some brads of some silicone adhesive. You want to be able to take it back off later if you mangle it up.

You are correct on the "lip" of the edging. I have only done one top this way and it works well. It was removed and moved into the finish room to make way for a lathe so it doesn't get much use.

Joe