C10fsh SCMS question

[Mark Hultzapple]

I just got a pretty good deal on a Hitachi C10FSH sliding miter saw. Lowes had one on close out for $300. My question is with the fence. The height of the current fence is rather low making some trim work like cove molding difficult and unsafe. Does anyone have a recommendation for raising the fence? Do I just add a wooden fence or what? If anyone has the Hitachi and some good ideas I would appreciate the help. Thanks

[Jamie Buxton]

I have an older C10FS. It came with short plastic fences. I replaced them with shop-built ones made from baltic birch which are somewhat taller. That said, the whole point of a sliding miter saw is that it is intended to cut molding while the molding is flat on the table. That gives you the ability to handle very tall molding, and do it safely. Learn about those magical weird angles in the owners manual and use them.

[Jim O'Dell]

Mark, you can get the factory add on fence from Amazon for 39.99. http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-321387-Sub-fence-C10FSH-C10FSB/dp/B0006HKA98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1206325523&sr=1-1
It doesn't look like it flips up and out like the left one that is supplied. Is it tall enough? Don't know. There is also supposed to be a way to get 25% off of Hitachi Accessories according to toolseeker dot com. It says to see Amazon's web site.
If you build your own, you could probably make it taller, but it may interfere with some of the functions of the saw in compound sawing mode. Jim.

[Paul Girouard]

I made a wood fence and a sled , it's been very handy since 1995 or so ,

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/July27th2.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/July27th3.jpg

It's screwed on with 606 N Blum hinge screws from the back .

[Mark Hultzapple]

Hmmmm read the book??? I always thought that was a last resort. I never really trusted my setups using compound angle cuts. I guess I have alot to learn about this saw. Thanks for the input.

[Peter Quinn]

I have a makita 10" SCMS and regularly make quick auxilary fences for different projecs most of which get in the way of right tilt bevels as the motor on mine hangs off the right side. If I don't need right bevels the fences make a good zero clearance no tearout setup quick and give me a good reference for my pencil marks.

For crowns I make a simple shallow fence that allows the full range of motion. The saw's manual has a handy chart in the book and as it turns out detents for most of the major angles I need. At first I thought it was voodoo...crazy combinations of miters and bevels, some things upside down and backwards, had to sacrifice a chicken now and then...turns out if I use the angles and detents and stop fighting it all the corners come out perfect.

Now is that a 38/52 crown, or a 45/45, or a borg crown which may follow no particular scheme whatsoever?