What's the best way to attach a router table top?

[Jim Broestler]

Just got my custom table top from Woodpecker, and it's time to attach it to the cabinet. My question is what the best method would be for securing it. The original plan I'm working from is found in Woodworking With the Router by Bill Hylton, where he builds is own table, and is thus able to secure the top to a frame using connector bolts prior to laminating the top. Since I don't have that option without drilling through the laminate (which I'd like to avoid so I can keep a void-free top), I was wondering what other method would work best in light of the materials involved (MDF for the top, 1 1/4" thick). Thanks!

[Heather Thompson]

Jim,

I have a top from Woodpecker, 28x32 right side that lived on a contractor saw for two years with a PRL PC7518 setup, the top has warped terribly. I would suggest that you reinforce the daylights out of it, personally I just bought a 72"x30"x1" slab of phenolic and will be maching my own. PM me if you have any specific questions.

Heather

[Shane Sura]

Jim,
Do you mean to attach it to a dedicated cabinet? If so this is what I did. I made small plywood blocks drilled into the bottom of the top. What the blocks did is make sure the top stayed square with the cabinet. The weight of the top keeps it down on the cabinet. I then put a screw into the side of the cabinent and attached to a couple of the blocks. I never try to lift it by the top but this ensures a good fit. A side benefit this method had was also keeping the sides of the cabinet square. If you need more info let me know.


Shane

[Jim Broestler]

Jim,

I have a top from Woodpecker, 28x32 right side that lived on a contractor saw for two years with a PRL PC7518 setup, the top has warped terribly. I would suggest that you reinforce the daylights out of it, personally I just bought a 72"x30"x1" slab of phenolic and will be maching my own. PM me if you have any specific questions.

Heather

The warping issue is why the original plan calls for a hardwood frame attached to the underside. The frame then fits over the top of the cabinet, which can either be attached with screws or hinged to make a lift up top.

Since I'm not connecting the top to the frame with bolts run all the way through the top, I'm wondering if maybe L-braces attached with coarse screws to the underside would be sufficient.

[Heather Thompson]

The warping issue is why the original plan calls for a hardwood frame attached to the underside. The frame then fits over the top of the cabinet, which can either be attached with screws or hinged to make a lift up top.

Since I'm not connecting the top to the frame with bolts run all the way through the top, I'm wondering if maybe L-braces attached with coarse screws to the underside would be sufficient.

Jim,

My table was installed via a TS111 fence system, I have the 92" rail set, I used the WoodPecker supplied mounting hardware. The table is approximately 1 1/8 thick with a miter slot that sits 1/2" into the table (MDF covered with a thin skin of phenolic both top and bottom), the sag occurs at the miter slot towards the recess for the miter plate. In my situation the sag is about an 1/8", factory hardware provides support across the table, but not side to side. This was the reason for my recommendation to reinforce heavily, the solid phenolic top that I purchased is rated to support 3000lbs. I intend to reinforce this also as I expect this to remain dead flat, my set up is kind of complex, but the backbone is a PM66.

Heather

[Stephen Edwards]

Heather,

Where does one buy a slab of phonelic of the size that you mentioned. Thanks.

[Heather Thompson]

Stephen,

I purchased it through McMaster-Carr, it is located on page 1622 of their catalog (online) and the price is 404.17. The product actually comes from Wisconsin Workbench, but they will not sell to the private parties. If you would like I have additional information that may be useful if you plan on going this route, PM me.

Heather