Freud plunge springs

[Ron Kellison]

Has anyone come up with a relatively easy way to remove the springs from the large Freud router. I've looked over the exploded parts diagram, and pored over the router and I'll be darned if I can see an obvious way to do the job.

Maybe I'm getting old. . .I used to be able to figure these things out just by looking at how something was put together.

Regards,

Ron in Ottawa

[Peter Froh]

http://www.freud.ca/PDFs/SpringRemoval.pdf

[Wade Lippman]

I have the 3000 and don't see why you would want to remove the springs. But perhaps you don't have the 3000. Or maybe I am missing something.

[Ron Kellison]

Peter,

Thank you very much! I would never have thought to take a knife to the micro-adjust knob. I'll give it a try when I next get some time in the shop.

Thanks again!!

Ron

[Charles Cannon]

I use the site Peter posted to remove the springs from my 2000. I removed the rubber boots also.
Cannon

[Peter Froh]

No problem. At one time I thought of removing my springs and came across this site. I've yet to do it, but it seems from the instructions pretty easy.

Can I assume you are going to put the router in a table and that is the reason for removing the springs? Some people say to keep the springs in the router even in a table as there are sometimes some issues around bit movement.

[Ron Kellison]

Peter,

I have the FT2000 mounted in the LV table, and I raise it by using the lifter made for the Wood Rat. Even though the lifter works quite well, it's still a stiff operation, especially when using the micro-adjust to raise the bit. I'm hoping that if I take the springs out I only have to work against the weight of the router and it will be easier if I take the springs out of the equation.

If it doesn't help, or if it causes other problems I should be able to reverse the process fairly easily.

Thanks again,

Ron in Ottawa

[Curt Harms]

Some issues with removing springs. I haven't had experience with using the Wood Rat plunge handle so I can't address that. The springs are easily removed and replaced once the micro adjust handle is split. I removed the springs and made a crank that went on the threaded shaft to raise and lower the router using the crank. The problem was that with the springs out there was no tension on the router body, gravity only so the crank would turn and the bit would lower due to vibration. Not an optimum situation. I could have locked the plunge lock each time but
1) the plunge lock was awkard to reach under the table and
2)I found without the plunge springs tightening the plunge lock caused the bit to tilt a little. Again, not optimum. I finally bought a Router Raizer. Router Raizer recommends leaving the springs in when installing the lift. That has worked out well. I also found that with the plunge springs in, locking the plunge lift didn't cause the bit to tilt like it did without the springs.

HTH

Curt