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Louis Reed
03-22-2008, 6:59 PM
I was given an older unisaw today. It has a 3hp 3p motor...so I will be replacing it with a 3hp single phase. The saw looks to be in good condition as the raise and tilt mechanisms are smooth. I have not run the saw so bearing condition to be determined later. The serial # is 84A04451. Am I to assume it was built in 1984 ?

I picked up a biesemeyer 52" fence and a new magnetic starter switch.
I found a Marathon 3hp single phase new for $317 plus shipping.

Any input from someone who has done this before would be welcomed.

Thanks, Louis

Chris Rosenberger
03-22-2008, 10:40 PM
What condition is the table & cabinet in? I would recommend replacing the bearings. By doing that & adding a new motor & switch, you will have a new saw. If the cabinet & table are in good shape, you will be set.

Louis Reed
03-22-2008, 11:24 PM
Chris, the table is not cracked and has both wings. I spent 4 hours today cleaning the rust off the top. I'll put a straight edge on it in the am. I'll have to adjust the wings abit, maybe .005 to .010 so they will plane. I plane to repaint the cabinet the original color. Another thing I'll need to do is adapt my dust collection system to it. Could use some ideas on that.

Thanks,
Louis

Chris Rosenberger
03-22-2008, 11:52 PM
Does your saw have an opening in the back of the plinth?

Jamie Buxton
03-23-2008, 1:02 AM
... Another thing I'll need to do is adapt my dust collection system to it. Could use some ideas on that...

If the saw is from the early eighties, it may not have any provision for dust collection. On mine, I just cut a big hole in the sheet metal on the side of the cabinet, and put an HVAC starter collar on it. Flex hose fastens to that. (I extract dust out the side because I have a folding outfeed table fastened to the rear.) Some people also like to put a plywood floor inside the cabinet just below the dust-extraction hole. I haven't done that, so after I've been working a while, the sawdust fills the base of the saw up to the level of the dust-extraction hole. But even without that floor, the important thing is that almost all of the dust goes down the hose instead of up in the air.

Jack Clay
03-23-2008, 4:06 AM
I have been redoing an older Unisaw and found this company (PLAZA MACHINERY COMPANY) they sell Baldor motors. I also fond Leeson motors on an Ebay store. The Leeson motors come in three or four hp. I have not bought anything yet. I have seen that a lot of people seem to like the Baldor motors. Good luck I hope you post what you buy and how you like it.

Cary Falk
03-23-2008, 1:33 PM
Louis,
I restored a 1970 Unisaw about 9 months ago. It was 3 phase and I put in a 1 phase Baldor from Plaza Machinery. As far as dust collection goes, there was already a crude hole in the side. I just put a plastic cover on it. It does ok, but I hardly use dust colleftion because it does well to contain most of the dust in the cabinet. I am planning on creating a shroud for the blade soon and see how that works.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0321a.jpg

Michael Gibbons
03-23-2008, 4:00 PM
Louis, I have a Unisaw which is only about 4 years old but from what I can tell they have changed the placement of the dust collection port to the back of the cabinet which is in-line with the spinnig blade. Also there is a angled ramp inside which helps funnel the chips towards the port.

Louis Reed
03-23-2008, 4:23 PM
Thank you all for your input, this such a great forum.

I do like and have both Baldor and Leeson motors on my shop equiptment.

I'll check out Plaza and ebay for those motors.

On the dust collection information, looks like you have a good setup. the saw that I'm replacing is a Powermatic 64 open base type. Sawdust everywhere if I did not retrofit.

Things are looking good on this poject as I checked the table for flatness-Aok. I pulled the arbor out so I can replace the bearings. Both guides for raising and tilting are tight and smooth. Can't wait to put this baby together !!!

Louis

Louis Reed
04-25-2008, 9:17 PM
well I just finished the rebuild on the unisaw. Here are the pics.
Thisis what I had to do to this old saw.
1. Install new 3hp Leeson mtr. $315
2. Install new 52" Biesemier fence $200 ( I got a deal). 3. Install new v-belts and arbor bearings $27. 4. Clean table of all rust and paint cabinet $15
5. Weld up a mobile base out of some angle iron I had, add some wheels and paint. I also built in six leveling bolts to bring saw to my outfeed table ht. 36".
6. Install new magnetic switch $70.
7. Built a four drawer under table cabinet from shop scraps. (Alder and baltic birch. I had four sets of 22" ballbearing drawer slides' $ 0
8. I ordered a Shark guard and splitter, on the way, $130.

Oh, a friend of mine gave me the saw ! Total cost...$757
In closing, the saw I replaced was a powermatic 64 contractors saw w/ 52" vega fence, I bought new in 1991. Sold it to a friend for $200

Louis Reed

Chris Rosenberger
04-25-2008, 9:32 PM
It looks great Louis. Very nice job.

Chris

Cary Falk
04-25-2008, 10:05 PM
Looks good Louis. What did you decide to do about the motor cover? I don't currently see one on it.

Jim Andrew
04-25-2008, 10:18 PM
I just used the 4" dust port on the back of my Uni and purchased a shark guard with a 4" dust port. Then I put a 6 x 6 x 4 Y in my line and let the dust collector suck from both. Works great except on very thick boards or very narrow cuts. Then I just hang the shark guard on the pipe overhead and on the very narrow cuts have to take off the splitter. Hate to do that but you can't rip much under 1". Jim

Louis Reed
04-25-2008, 11:15 PM
Cary, I think I will make one. I have a friend who has a brake I can use.

Louis

Louis Reed
04-25-2008, 11:23 PM
Jim,

I have a strong 4" dust collection system under my shop floor and a blast gate under the saw. However I still need to channel the dust better.

I've got a couple of cabinet jobs to do now so it will have to wait for the time being.

Louis

Bob Slater
04-26-2008, 7:03 AM
Very nice looking end product. I am building a similar setup for my old general saw. What material did you use for the tops of the outfeed?

Louis Reed
04-26-2008, 8:44 AM
Bob,

I used 1/2 white melamine, double sided. Again this was shop scraps.
It's hard to see, but when I setup the shop three rears ago, I built a large 8 x 8 outfeed table using the 1/2" melamine. This I use for assembly and also I can write notes with my pencil like dimentions angles etc. It is easy to clean any glue off of it. I use a razor blade type of glass scraper.

The other plus is all my walls are white painted sheet rock which reflect light as does the melamine.

Louis