Outfeed table size

[Andy Pratt]

I'm planning to build an outfeed table for my table saw and wanted to get some input on size. It would seem like 24" wide, for a total of 12" on each side of the blade would be adequate for width, although it seems small based on what I've seen in shop pictures. Any reason for most of them being wider than this? How about length from the table saw, what's a reasonable compromise if I want to cut 6-8' stuff without it falling off the back side?

Thanks,
Andy

[Art Mann]

If you ever plan too rip any sheet goods, the width needs to be around 4'. Two feet might get you by, but I wouldn't advise it if you have the space for more. You never know what you may want to do in the future. As far as length goes, just make it a little longer than half the length of the longest piece you intend to rip. In that case, the workpiece will stay balanced on the table and won't have a tendancy to fall off the far end.

[mike holden]

Remember that is half the length measured from the back of the saw blade!
It is after you are through the cut that you want to be able to release the board.
Mike

[Fred Voorhees]

Andy, I would recommend you extend your outfeed table to at least four feet out from the back of the saw. This will give you MORE than four feet from the back edge of your blade...meaning that ripping sheet goods will be much easier since they will not tip off of the back of your table. I have included a picture of my current Delta contractors saw that I added an outfeed table to. The actual table adds four foot, a typical width of plywood. The total outfeed capacity is somewhere around 52 inches or so. This saw leaves my shop in about a month and I will have to build another outfeed for the new Jet cabinet saw that is replacing the Delta. I am actually toying with making the width (side to side) measurement upwards of six or seven feet wide. Not only does it help with the sawing operations, it also serves me well with extra work space for various tasks.

The design for this particular outfeed table is from none other than our own Jim Becker. I am pretty sure that I still have the plans somewhere stored on my computer or on a disk somewhere. Nevertheless, I plan on using the same plans since they worked very well and were fairly easy to follow.

[Joe Chritz]

I have had 4'x7.5' for a long time. I am shrinking it to 4'x5' and doing a torsion box very soon. 5' is adequate for any sheet goods and give a little more room around it in my set up. Bigger is better when you are assembling a large pantry cabinet though so if you have the room go as big as possible. I still may go to 6' long.

24" wide is just barely managable. I wouldn't do anything less than 36" if you have the room.

Joe

[Ron Bontz]

Andy,
I have a small shop but sometimes do use sheet goods such as plywood and pre laminated MDF. I put on the wider HTC roller outfeed system 7 years ago and have been very happy with it. Some do not like it because of the space between the rollers allowing short pieces to fall through. For me working by myself it was well worth the cost. I just hinge it down when not in use. I would have a 12" wider one if they made one.

[Von Bickley]

Andy,

My outfeed table is 4' X 6.5'. Also serves as an assembly table with receptacles on both sides. Works GREAT......

If you have the room, go bigger.:)

[Jim O'Dell]

My plan, right now;), when I get to add the cabinet saw to the mix, is to use my contractor saw as the outfeed table. I'll turn it 90 degrees to the cab saw, and set it up primarily for a dado blade. I'll have to add a short extension on the right of the contractor saw to cut in dado slot for the miter sled and miter bar to extend past the cab saw table. And probably a wide but fairly shallow extension off the back of it to get the width of the extension.I'd want for the cab saw.
Right now my extension table is a hodge-podge table surface on a welding table left by the previous owner. It has wheels, so I can move it side to side when cutting sheet goods, depending on where the bulk of the sheet needs to be, especially when not cutting it straight down the middle. If I was going to have an extension that was stationary, or flip up, I think I'd want it to be at least 5' wide, by 6' deep. Width wise, 2 feet to the left of the blade, or eveh with the left extension, and the remainder to the right. Jim.

[Brian Penning]

I, like many others I suspect, end up using my outfeed table as a work table more often than I thought I would. Actually do more work on it than the bench.
If you don't already have a plan, I used the Woodwhisperer/Norm's plan. And bigger is definitely better.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f193/Bri68/Miscilaneous/IMG_3269.jpg?t=1206235301

[Chris Holder]

You might also want to check out Mike's work on http://sawsndust.com/index.shtm. I built might off of his model and couldn't be happier. Probably one of my favorite projects for the workshop.

[Jim Becker]

You might also want to check out Mike's work on http://sawsndust.com/index.shtm. I built might off of his model and couldn't be happier. Probably one of my favorite projects for the workshop.


Mike??? :eek: :o :p :) :D

Direct link to the outfeed table project is: http://sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm (although that may change in the future as I move the site over to BLOG format)

[Ben Cadotte]

I, like many others I suspect, end up using my outfeed table as a work table more often than I thought I would. Actually do more work on it than the bench.

And bigger is definitely better.


Read my mind.

I just got the carcas and top done on my new outfeed table. 32" x 8'. Matches the width of my saw set up. I have it 2' from the back of the saw. Between the table and saw is a 2' wide connector top (contractor saw so have the motor sticking out). On either side of the middle connector is a 12" wide roller. I spaced it 2' so I could use both sides for storage. I wanted a large table so I could use it for assembly as well.

I have the room so I figured why not. Also had almost everything I needed to make the carcas on hand. Need to do drawers and doors when I get back home from my trip for work.

[Joe Mioux]

Mike??? :eek: :o :p :) :D

Direct link to the outfeed table project is: http://sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm (although that may change in the future as I move the site over to BLOG format)

Jim, why Blog format? I have lots of questions regarding blogs, but I don't want to hijack this thread. any quick answers?

thanks joe

[Richard M. Wolfe]

We are in the process of finishing (and probably will still be ten years from now) a new shop in a 40x60 building and the table saw is at the end of a counter thats four feet wide and about 35 feet long.

Down to the smaller shop. I also have a backyard shop more the size of the average hobbyist. I just happened to end up with something that works very well as an outfeed table. I salvaged an old 4'x4' wooden table from a cafeteria just to use as an assembly/work table. I put casters on it and it ended up sitting at the back of my table saw. It's about an inch lower than the saw table and usually sits about two feet from the motor on my contractor's saw. Cut material if long enough sags to be supported by the table but the edge doesn't interfere with shoving shorter stuff off the saw table. Since it has casters I can move it left or right to support sheet goods as they are cut. I didn't plan it to be that way but it works very well.

[Andy Pratt]

Thanks for all of the replies guys. After the number of great ideas I've got from you through this thread, I feel like making a rule something along the lines of the following for myself, maybe I'll post it in the shop: "before embarking on a project you haven't done much research on, post a thread on sawmill creek and get some advice from people who know more than you do, then go change whatever ding-bat idea you had into some idea that would actually work" I probably would have done something I would later regret if I hadn't gotten the good input, so thanks.

Fred, great point about making it 4' which, plus the distance to the saw blade, makes it so sheet goods won't tip off. I don't usually cut hardwood that long, so I didn't see the issue until you mentioned it. I do cut sheet goods a lot, but I've got such a small shop right now that I'm breaking them down ahead of time. I will make full cuts in the future, so your point is well received.

Brian, Nice sawstop and table. I took the plunge too, so I think my future outfeed table might be very similiar to yours. If you have plans you can easily access I'd be happy to have them.

Thanks,
Andy

[Bob Feeser]

http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/4251/2918871520100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/4183/2216665620100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/4489/2012407510100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/4518/2931127350100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/3832/2089624110100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/5861/2149760690100733997S600x600Q85.jpg

[Brian Penning]

Brian, Nice sawstop and table. I took the plunge too, so I think my future outfeed table might be very similiar to yours. If you have plans you can easily access I'd be happy to have them.

Thanks,
Andy

Go to the Wood Whisperer's Episode 30. http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-30-somebody-feed-me/

Only difference is I made my top overhang the legs. What is that blue panel anyways?

http://www.newyankee.com/photos/0207.jpg

[Chris Holder]

Mike??? :eek: :o :p :) :D

Direct link to the outfeed table project is: http://sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm (although that may change in the future as I move the site over to BLOG format)

Sorry Jim,

I was typing that late last night. You are the man.

[Andy Pratt]

Bob, do you know where to get those adjustable foot brackets for the legs? Any common name they go by? Those would be perfect for me, as my garage floor is sloped pretty significantly.

Thanks,
Andy

[Bob Feeser]

Bob, do you know where to get those adjustable foot brackets for the legs? Any common name they go by? Those would be perfect for me, as my garage floor is sloped pretty significantly.

Thanks,
Andy

Andy,
I do not recall exactly who I bought them from. I bought them 4 years ago. I spent 20 minutes in google looking up adjustable leveling feet and could not find them. I did find this http://www.levelingmounts.com/groups/ and they may be able to locate that type since they carry such a wide array of leveling feet.

One thing I wanted to mention about the outfeed table pictures. With this design the entire table is adjustable to keep a perfectly flat, and on an even plane from the saw top surfaces, no matter where the floor is. The design is like 2 X's with adjustable feet at each corner, and one in the middle. If you look at the picture of just the legs, you realize that there is also a cross brace piece, that I could at a later date add an internal adjuster as well, but I have not needed to use it. This outfeed table doubles as an assembly table for glue ups. (I throw a plastic sheet over it) It actually is a work table too. There is enough room down the other end that I can be doing a project, and still have enough clearance behind the blade area to cut anything I want at the same time.

Andy, I am sorry that I do not remember who I bought the legs from. If it comes to me, I will return to the post. This particular model has a lip that extends under the wooden leg, so it is not resting on the threaded screws; they just hold it in place as the weight presses on the L shaped lip that goes underneath. (You can't see the lip from the picture)

[Tom Henderson2]

Bob, do you know where to get those adjustable foot brackets for the legs? Any common name they go by? Those would be perfect for me, as my garage floor is sloped pretty significantly.

Thanks,
Andy

I don't know if these are the ones that Bob used, but they certainly look similar:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2053&filter=leveler

-TH

[Brian Penning]

Lee Valley has them also, which is where I bought mine.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&cat=3,40993,41283&p=41865

I think the corner ones from Rockler would work also.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2309&cs=1

[glenn bradley]

It would seem like 24" wide, for a total of 12" on each side of the blade would be adequate for width, although it seems small based on what I've seen in shop pictures.

An outfeed extension about this size came with my saw. I never bothered to put it on as it would be too small and is just a token outfeed to me. Depth is up to you and your shop size. Mine is 5' wide but only about 3' deep. I use roller stands for long rips which I only do occasionally on the TS. Wide support was important to me. You'll want to judge by what you normally do.

[Danny Thompson]

4' x 4' is a great size because, in combination with the behind-the-blade portion of your TS top, it can support a full sheet of plywood. Credits for this one go to fellow Creeker Steve Rowe.

On the other hand, I wouldn't make it any wider than your TS top. Reason: boards hanging off the sides of your TS may get caught on the front edge of the outfeed table, causing the board to twist and kickback.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=79663&d=1200847742

[Paul Johnstone]

Mine is similar to Bob Freeser's but very ugly looking.
I used a 2x4 frame and put a sheet of formicaed plywood on top.
I built the frame slightly oversized, so that I can easily store full sized sheet goods under there as well. It's awesome.. In fact, when I get around to it, I'm getting rid of my bench and moving the vise to it.

If you have the room, I highly recommend making it do double duty for storage of 4' x 8' sheet goods.

[Joe Jensen]

I use sheet goods a fair amount and I am a fan of a large outfeed table. I don't move my saw, and I have my TS and Shaper all connected together with solid cast iron. I have an outfeed table that is about 40" by 50" with a ton of storage underneath and a router table built in. I did not put slots in the top because I use a RAS for cutoffs or a Festool so I don't use a sled. The SawStop top is deep enough that the miter guide does not go past the back of the saw for cutoffs anyway.

Here are some pics.
Outfeed table with Woodpecker undrilled insert (using the table as a workbench/outfeed. When I use the router I drop in a different insert. I have the dust collector run to the cabinet below the router and I built baffles under the router table to pull all the air through the space between the router motor and the baseplate.

[Ben Grunow]

I like my outfeed to be about 4' 6" from the back of the blade so 8' sheet goods can be pivoted on the far edge allowing the edge closest to you to be lifted with minimal effort.

[Mike Cutler]

Thanks for all of the replies guys. After the number of great ideas I've got from you through this thread, I feel like making a rule something along the lines of the following for myself, maybe I'll post it in the shop: "before embarking on a project you haven't done much research on, post a thread on sawmill creek and get some advice from people who know more than you do, then go change whatever ding-bat idea you had into some idea that would actually work" I probably would have done something I would later regret if I hadn't gotten the good input, so thanks.

Thanks,
Andy

Of course this could be rephrased something like this;

Ask questions on Sawmill Creek, and get advice from folks that have already done what I'm contemplating ( Ding-bat idea part).
Realized their mistake, and copied someone else's idea, that had previously had their own equal, if not exceedingly ding bat idea of their own.
Posted a pic, 'cause our memory is shot from contemplating the higher meaning of life ideas, such as; western versus eastern dovetail saw kerfs and tooth configurations, subsequently gave up and bought a Leigh D4. And sniffing the older, higher, VOC count finishing products.
Built huge benches and tables to go with huge machines, and then discovered turnin', and found out that we actually could finish a project in under a week. It was round, but heck, it was finished!

So I say. Skip the outfeed table, go straight to the lathe part, put some Bob Marley on the iPod, and start dancin' and turnin'.:D:D:D

Ok. That was all a tongue in cheek joke folks. I couldn't resist.

As for the outfeed table. make it as big as you can afford too, based on the available space in your shop, and make it heavy. You may want to set a lathe on it someday.:eek:,:D......now where's my iPod.:rolleyes:

[Bob Feeser]

You guys are good. Really good. That is them. I knew I bought them from a major woodworking supplier. They work great.
Not that this is that important but the allen wrench head adjusting screw is the same exact size as the Incra TSIII-32's adjusting screwdriver that comes with the fence in order to lock down the optional fence lock the farthest from you. I keep that screwdriver handy, and it doubles as an easy way to tweak the height of the outfeed table. Due to seasonal changes regarding humidity tweaking is helpful. Sometimes outright re-leveling is necessary. Those adjustable feet do a really nice job, and they have great heavy duty load capabilities.

[Bob Feeser]

Joe,
Incredibly clean, incredible efficient use of space. The router station is impressive. Which way did you accomplish such nice dovetails. I like the wood contrast from the drawer fronts to the sides.
Doing it up first class.
Bob

I use sheet goods a fair amount and I am a fan of a large outfeed table. I don't move my saw, and I have my TS and Shaper all connected together with solid cast iron. I have an outfeed table that is about 40" by 50" with a ton of storage underneath and a router table built in. I did not put slots in the top because I use a RAS for cutoffs or a Festool so I don't use a sled. The SawStop top is deep enough that the miter guide does not go past the back of the saw for cutoffs anyway.

Here are some pics.
Outfeed table with Woodpecker undrilled insert (using the table as a workbench/outfeed. When I use the router I drop in a different insert. I have the dust collector run to the cabinet below the router and I built baffles under the router table to pull all the air through the space between the router motor and the baseplate.

[Joe Jensen]

Joe,
Incredibly clean, incredible efficient use of space. The router station is impressive. Which way did you accomplish such nice dovetails. I like the wood contrast from the drawer fronts to the sides.
Doing it up first class.
Bob

Thanks for the compliments Bob. I have a confession to make. I no longer make my own drawers. There is a large commercial drawer company a few miles from my house. The cost for baltic birch drawers with dovetails is only about 2X the cost of the materials. Cutting the dovetails in baltic birch with a router is one of my least favorite things.