Dyed Maple Vase

[Bob Opsitos]

This peice was inspired by a thread a number of weeks ago about dyed pieces, especially a link to Micheal Allisons work.

It's a piece of lightly spalted maple that I dyed using transtint (red, black & yellow) mixed with water then sprayed by a Harbor Freight airbrush. I then cut the rim with a japanese saw and then sprayed with with Watco laquer from a can (many coats). Once it was fully cured I wet sanded it with mineral spirits and then buffed with white diamond and wax. I really was hoping for a smooth finish right from the can but I had "orange peel" that I felt compelled to sand out. I wonder if one can get a smooth laquer finish from a can?

7-1/4" x 4-1/8"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v705/ropsitos/DyedMapleVase.jpg

Thanks for looking
Bob

[Brian Effinger]

That's really nice, Bob. The dyes seem to make it glow, and the "broken" top adds to the fire, as does the grain orientation. Again, very nice :)

[Jon Lanier]

Really cool idea! Or should I say hot. :D

[Bernie Weishapl]

Bob that is a beauty. I just got my airbrush outfit from Airbrush City. Can't wait to try it out.

[Rich Stewart]

That's really cool looking. I use lacquer out of a spray can. I, too, was having trouble with gravelly looking surfaces until my neighbor told me that with lacquer you have to "wet" the wood. Too much and it sags, not enough and it looks rough. Hope that helps.

[Jim Meier]

Very cool, I really like the rim

[Tom Sherman]

Nice idea Bob and well executed, I like it very much.

[robert hainstock]

Excellant use of the abrush for blendingwhat a great way to sve a plain piece from the woodpile. :):)
Bob

[Thomas Bennett]

I really like your the form and color of your vessel. How did you cut the inside? It looks nice and thin and your cutting on top is very precise.
I, also, had trouble with spray can tips. I found them to work well with smaller turnings but the tips can clog up and splatter the finish.
I borrowed an airbrush that sprayed about the same pattern with great results. I couldn't believe how easy and consistant it was to use. I found a touch-up gun at the local Tractor Supply and tried it out yesterday with great results on some larger platters. It seems to spray about a 3 inch pattern. I hope this helps

[Ben Gastfriend]

Cool piece! And it looks like the laquer worked out. Good job sorting out that mess!

[Scott Hubl]

:cool:Really COOL, Love the color blending.

[Ron Drew]

I like that Bob. Very nice job on blending the dyes. I spray with can lacquer a lot, and after a first thin light coat, I lay on subsequent coats fairly heavy. I usually spray with the piece on the lathe, run at 150 rpm or so, then continue to turn it slowly by hand until the finish is firm enough to not run. Runs are inevitable though, and I just sand them out before the next coat.

[Curt Fuller]

Bob, that is really something! I love it.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Bob - great concept! Very nice work on blending all the colors! Good form, interesting rim treatment and your laquer finish looks great!

[Bob Opsitos]

Thank everyone, I was going for a fire effect, though I suppose the top cutting elements should have been somewhat curved to be more like fire. To be honest it was hard enough cutting into a finished peice with straight cuts, let alone trying to make little flames. I'm giving the peice to my wife's uncle as a housewarming gift. Didn't make it for that purpose, but I think it will have a nice home there.

I do like the edge treatment though; I have an ash bowl roughed that likely will get something similar (as well as the color). Maybe deeper cuts. I applied masking tape to the edge, drew on the pattern I thought would be good, and then cut it out. Took awhile. A little filing/sanding the the rim was done.

Recently I saw an interesting video on "the woodworking channel" with Phil Irons that gave me some ideas. He textures the peice and then sprinkles on powdered dye and then hits the peice with a alcohol spray bottle. Really make some interesting colors/patterns in a way that would be tough otherwise.

I've not used laquer much but it's not been a great experience. Either runs or orange peel. I was laying light coats on in the beginnning, maybe too light. I was really hoping for something that would give a glossy finish without manipulation afterwards. I'd like to make some periced work and can't imagine it standing up through all the sanding/buffing. Plus when wet sanding the laquer residue (whitish powder) gets deposited in all the nooks and crannies.

I've got a touch up gun and HVLP gun but I've not tried to spray laquer from them. Honestly I'm having trouble identifying exactly what product I need to buy. Do you just pick up rushing laquer and cut it with thinnner? Or is there a special laquer for spraying (not talking about conversion laquer)?


I really like your the form and color of your vessel. How did you cut the inside? It looks nice and thin and your cutting on top is very precise.

Tom I have a Rolly munro hollowing tool, which is how I cut the inside. I did this one "by hand" as oppsed to on the HF rig, because I could see the inside. I think the thickness is around 1/4".

Thanks
Bob

[GLENN THOMAS]

That piece really caught my attention and made me stop and look for a while. You should make another with an ice theme to go with it. I guess im going to have to get my airbrush out now and try something with it.

[Dale Gregory]

Bob, great job! I really like it. You did a great job of blending the colors. Did you start or end with black?

Dale

[Bob Opsitos]

Bob, great job! I really like it. You did a great job of blending the colors. Did you start or end with black?


Thanks, Dale. I started with the black. It seemed the obvious thing to do at the time, but now that you asked, I couldn't tell you my reasons. I think it was just easier mentally, like building a fire.

Bob

[Jim Becker]

Wonderful work, Bob! Great job on the airbrushing, too...nice blend!

[Richard Madison]

Bob,
The two brands of brushing lacquer in our local store specifically say "do not thin for spraying". Assume this means that one should by a product intended for spray application.

Spray quality differs among brands of spray-can lacquer. Have found a couple good ones and at least one not so good. And spray quality deteriorates when you approach bottom of the can. One can save that last half ounce or so for the first coat on next project.

It is indeed a challenge to apply a "full wet coat" without getting runs. You could try varying the distance from the nozzle to the work.

And very cool vase! Maybe cut flames to shape next time? Much careful work.

[Joseph Peacock]

Wow!!!! That is awsom!!!!:D