Anyone happy with their 6" jointer?

[David Parker]

Hi All,

I'm in the market for my first jointer and have noticed that many here say they wish they had gone with an 8 inch jointer instead of a 6 inch. I'm trying to make the 8 inch versus 6 inch decision. I can get an adequate 6 inch for $400 (Rikon on sale at local Woodcraft now) or less if I can find a local used jointer. I can get the Shop Fox 8 inch parallelogram 4 blade jointer (same machine as Grizzly G0490) locally for $800.

Money is not a real big factor, but the weight is, since I have to move this thing down into my small basement shop pretty much on my own. The 8 inch one, at over 500 pounds is twice as heavy as the 6 inch. I'm new to woodworking and am not really sure how much I'll be using the jointer, but it seemed pretty handy in the last two classes I took. I have the DeWalt 735 planer (still in its box).

My question is this: Are there any beginning woodworkers out there that are satisfied with their 6 inch jointer and don't regret not getting an 8 inch?

Thanks,

Dave

[Yun-Fong Loh]

Only thing I regret is not having a big enough shop to actually have an 8 inch jointer. Other than that, I've been happy with my 6 inch JET. I'm not sure about the parallelogram designs but the traditional jointers can be easily separated from the base and the motor can also be separated. Look at a user's manual or better a parts diagram to see how you might be able to take one apart.

[Ben Cadotte]

I am happy with my 6" jointer as I only paid $250 for it new. For the price its accurate and so far dependable.

Would I like a larger easier to use one. Yup. But the one I have does what I need very well. If I were to get a new one I would jump to 12" though. Right now where I get my hardwood they will joint 1 face for me for .15 a BF. I only do that if I buy wider boards. The ones that will fit my Jointer I do myself.

[Steve Dewey]

I have ridgid 6" - it works fine, but I'm limited by the capacity. I just bought a Hammer 12" jointer/planer at almost 10X the price. Too bad you aren't closer, I'd make you a good deal on the Ridgid.

[Doug Shepard]

Only thing I regret is not having a big enough shop to actually have an 8 inch jointer. ...

That's pretty much my problem too. I was just using my PM54 (not the newer/longer 54A) earlier today. It's been a solid performer so I cant complain.

[Yun-Fong Loh]

YMMV, but another suggestion, since your planer is still in the box, is to sell the planer and go for a 12" combo jointer/planer. That's probably the route I would go today since I can easily rationalize that it will take less space than a jointer + mobile planer cart.

[Peter Quinn]

If money is not an object I'd buy an 8" and hire a moving company, bribe friends or beg in laws to help you move it down. I moved my delta 8"DJ-20 down with one other gentleman, who just happened to have worked as a facilities engineer for a manufacturer, his job was to locate and setup large machinery.

We took the table assembly off the base, built a cradle around it, lowered it down the steps slowly on planks with a block and tackle, reassembled it on a mobile base. Remember gravity is in your favor going down! At no point did we attempt to deadlift this tool.

PS..when I sell my house it comes with an 8" jointer!

[John Shuk]

I;m happy with mine. I have the Rigid brand which is available at Home Depot.
That said bigger would be better.
I have a Yates American 12" in my garage that I just haven't had the time to get ready for use.
Someday.

[John Gregory]

I have a 6" Ridgid jointer. It works as it is supposed to. I would love a bigger one, a larger shop. a Sawstop, unlimited lumber, more time to work in the shop, etc................... and of course enough money to satisify my wants :D

[Joe Castellano]

I have the 6" Ridgid and have been very happy with its performance. Someday if I have the room, I may move up to the larger jointer, but for now it works great.

[Peter Pezaris]

I've got an 8" and wish it was bigger... contemplating the relative merits of 12" vs. a 16" monster. Luckily space isn't an issue.

[Paul Johnstone]

If the only issue is getting it downstairs, surely you can call in a favor on a friend or two?

The big reason I upgraded to an 8" jointer was to get longer beds.
I had a 6" jet which was a great machine, but jointing boards around 6' was difficult, due to the shorter beds.

[Bas Pluim]

I got a 6" jointer, for two reasons. One - this was my first jointer. I figured I'd get some experience first before buying something bigger, heavier and twice as expensive. Second, room in my shop is limited, an 8" jointer takes up quite a bit more space.

I've been very happy with it, there are times I want to joint a wider board, but there are ways around that (planer sled, hand planing, buddy with a bigger jointer). One thing I did learn with the 6" is how important long infeed/ outfeed tables are. I can get by with some auxiliary roller stands, but bed length is just as important a factor as width. The other thing I learned is how frustrating setting jointer knives can be.

So, if/ when I do upgrade, I know what features to look for. I could not have learned that without first having a smaller 6" jointer. If I had bought an 8" from the start, it's possible I'd be kicking myself now for not getting a shelix cutterhead, or a disposable knives system, or parallelogram beds. You can sell a 6" jointer in reasonable condition on Craig's List for $250, so the money you're risking is small.

But, if you have the space, and money isn't an issue, and you know which one you want - go for it! I've heard of people selling their jointer because they found out they never use it. But I've NEVER heard anyone say they wish they'd bought a smaller jointer. That'd be like saying you have enough clamps.

Just my $0.02.

[Brodie Brickey]

I've got an 8" jointer and I'm running into problems with that limitation. Unfortunately my show is so full, I can barely get that jointer in. No way could I fit a 12 or 16.

[Adam Cavaliere]

I honestly do not understand how someone could feel that they don't have a need for it... but I guess to each their own!

[Jack Ganssle]

I'm delighted with my 6" Rigid. But if room wasn't an issue I'd have a bigger machine, one which could take a Shelix cutterhead. When we buy the next shop, er, house, I plan to get an 8".

[William Patterson2]

Another happy 6" Jointer owner here. An 8" jointer would have been nicer but no essential. There are times when I find myself cutting down 7 or even 8" wide boards to fit but that is the price I pay. I consider an 8" more of a luxury than a necessity. If you can the 8", get it. I doubt you will be disappointed.

[scott spencer]

I wish I had both the space and the budget for an 8". By now I probably could have saved up the money difference, but my shop is still tiny. Most of the time my 6" Griz is just dandy. When I need more capacity, I just use a planer sled, or go bug a friend. :rolleyes:

[Matt Meiser]

There are a few creekers within a reasonable distance of you that would probably be willing to help.

[Jim Dunn]

Only thing I regret is not having a big enough shop to actually have an 8 inch jointer.

I echo the above sentiment;) But,,,, I do enjoy my 6" Delta jointer. I use it in conjunction with a jointer sled for my 12" planer. I don't find that missing 2" is that important.:rolleyes:

[David Parker]

I want to thank everyone so far for their excellent insights. It seems that a 6 inch jointer works reasonably well for people most of the time, but that almost everyone wishes they could have an 8 inch or larger if it were feasible.

As far as size difference, the 8 inch is 76 x 23 with a 44 x16 footprint and the 6 inch measures 46 x23 with a 17 x 13 foot print. Other than the extra 30 inch length of the bed, there's not too much difference. I plan on having it parked against one wall of my 12 x15 shop and will pull it out to use it on any long pieces.

I think I'm leaning toward the 8 inch now (but the 6 inch looked so much easier to get into the basement :( ). Anyway, I enjoy challenges.

Dave

[Art Mulder]

My 6" Delta x5 works just great and I'm well satisfied with it.

(when your shop is 11x23, there's no point to even considering a larger jointer.)

[Jeffrey Makiel]

My 6" jointer is 20 years old now. I have no complaints. I have a small basement shop too. I would hate the thought of schlepping an 8" jointer down a flight of steps.

A 6" jointer offers great value these days. They are very reasonable in cost and they don't take up that much space. And, it does everything I need as a hobbyist.

Most of the wood I buy is surfaced on both sides so I can see the grain before purchase. A few licks in the planer is all that is required. I don't have a need to bulk process rough cut stock. Again, I just do woodworking as a hobbyist.

-Jeff :)

[Mike Logan]

I have a 6" Steel City jointer with a parallelogram bed that works very well but if I had the room, I would have gone for the 8" model. Whatever jointer you get, I would recommend you look for one with a parallelogram bed. I find it much easier to adjust the infeed and out feed tables. I can't imagine not having a jointer. I use it all the time.

[Phil Harding]

I started with a 6" Jet jointer. Loved it, but eventually realized that I was spending too much time working around it's limitations. Two years later I sold it and upgraded to a Grizzly 8". Two years after that I added a Byrd Shellix head. I have been very happy with this jointer with just one exception - I want a wider one. So now I'm looking at 12" jointers. If I had the room (and the money) I'd go for a 16". I use a lot of curly maple, walnut, red and white oak and it's not too difficult to find boards in the 10" to 12" range. Even the exotics can be found in these widths.

-- Phil

[Mitch Richardson]

much more important than width (for me) is bed length. 6 inch jointers are very limiting in how long of boards they can effectively join. It might not seem like a big deal if you've never used a longer bed, but once you have you'll realize what a compromise short beds are.

[J. Z. Guest]

I'm happy with my Ridgid 6-1/8" jointer. When boards are glued up into panels, the panels are less prone to warp when made from smaller boards anyhow. Sure, it means more gluing in glue-ups, but I don't mind.

[Andy Pratt]

Dave, I would base your determination on what to buy by first looking at what sizes of rough stock are commonly available in your area. I think the reason that most people recommend 8" or larger is that it seems that rough stock that is much smaller than 6" wide is an infrequent find, so you have to rip prior to face jointing (which is annoying and often difficult with any serious curve to the board) wasting a little (or a lot) of every board that you might not otherwise have to. This is just my limited experience in the year I've been woodworking/scoping for deals on craigslist/visiting small mills. I'm in Western WA and I've found that of the rough lumber I've purchased, 10% is 6" wide or smaller, 50% is 8" or smaller, 90% is 12" or smaller and it's all been under 15" beyond that. If that is representative of most areas, 8" seems like the logical starting point for decent utility, eventually upgrading to a 12" or larger if you ever find the need.

I purchased a 6" jointer a year ago, it taught me how to use the machine, was inexpensive and let me know what I really want. I'll be buying a 12" combingation J/P in the next year or two, so given that as a future state, the 6" was okay for now, but I still wish I had gotten an 8" instead.

Hope this was helpful,
Andy

[Bruce Wrenn]

I have a couple of 6" Grizzly's and am happy. I can face joint a nine inch board, by replacing the guard and adding aux top to the infeed table. On another web site, the resident "jointer guru" says this won't work. I'm glad I didn't listen to him before doing this. I use a piece of 1/4" MDF to run the jointed face through planer until second face is parallel to first. Then flip board over, remove MDF and plane away waste on first face. With my method, you joint with the grain. In other methods, you turn board around, and face joint area that wasn't already jointed.

[Cary Falk]

I am happy with my 6" Jet. If I had more space and money then maybe I would consider and 8". Very seldom do I need anything larger than the 6".

[Charlie Plesums]

I had the Ridgid 6 inch jointer and was very impressed with it. However, I got my saw aligned very well, so rarely had to edge joint a board. I bought FAS hardwood (the good stuff) which has to finish to over 6 inches, which means that the narrow FAS rough boards are about 6 1/2 inches, so it had limited used for face jointing. But it was a great machine.

I really wanted an 8 inch jointer...if a rough board has to be at least 6 1/2 inches, that doesn't mean they are a lot more than the minimum required to get the top grade. A lot of the boards I bought that didn't fit the 6 inch Ridgid would fit an 8 inch.

Then I pulled the trigger on a big combo machine. I now have a 16 inch jointer. WOW! Looks like an aircraft carrier in my garage workshop. I glue up most of my panels before jointing and planing, saving huge amounts of time and effort, and getting great results.

Am I satisfied? No. Many doors are 22-24 inches wide, which means the raised panel is 18-20 inches wide. So now I wish I had a 20 inch jointer. I really want to respond to the email ads that promise an extra four inches if you just ... never mind.

But if I were starting today, I would recommend at least an 8 inch jointer, unless you are doing specialized work such as only making small boxes, etc.

[Eric Larsen]

Add me to the list of "8-inches isn't big enough." I'd really like 12" for face planing. My band saw can resaw foot-thick lumber, so I'd like the jointer to accomodate.

[Matt Bickford]

I have a 6 inch jointer and hand planes. My options are limitless. I have no desire at this point to upgrade.

Get 6 and you will want 8. 8 and you will want 12. 12 to 16 and apparently even 16 to 24. No hobbiest is completely happy with the width of their jointer. Just read the every previous post. My recommendation would be 6" for edge jointing, a couple of hand planes and completely avoiding this debacle. Learning to use handplanes and the few necessary skills that go along with them will avoid the upgrade every 2 years. It should be considered.

Face planing a wide board before running it through the planer is only a couple of minutes. When you factor in the amount of time you spend on each project it's a complete wash. You'll never have to rip any sized board to fit it onto your jointer...ever.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

When it was all I had yah.
After that I' don't bother with it.

I prolly should akaus it burns fewer electrons than the 12" one.

[Deck Reagan]

I had the same decision to make 2 weeks ago. I had a Delta 6" open stand and wanted to convert to a closed stand for better dust collection and a longer table. I ended up going with the JET long table 6". I am putting it together today. I'll post photos later.

I for one an completely satisfied with a 6". I never glue up boards wider than 5 to 6 inches. Most of the projects I build don't require wood wider than 6 inches and if they do I glue up if necessary. My lumber supplier has great wood so It's usually not cupped and I can send it through my planer without face jointing. My latest WOOD magazine subscription renewal contained a table saw jigs, etc. magazine. It had a nice caption stating that glue ups shouldn't contain boards wider than 5 inches for best stability performance.

Not that I won't desire a larger planer someday, but today I am completely satisfied with a quality 6 inch today.

deck

[Ron Bontz]

I was happy with my Delta 6" jointer. The only reason I bought an 8" Delta was because I wanted to joint longer boards. A powermatic 54A would have done the job as well but then there goes the cost factor.

[bob cohen]

Haven't heard anyone express regrets about upgrading their 6 inch jointers. I know i would never go back, even though my Delta 6 inch served me well for nearly 10 years. I was worried about getting my eight inch jointer into my basement shop, but it turned out to not be all that hard.

As you become a more experienced woodworker, you will probably find youself buying rough lumber more and more often. It is far too expensive to do otherwise and the selection (at least around here) of surfaced lumber is very limited.

[Nancy Laird]

Since we do NO face-jointing, our 6" SCTW wedge-bed is serving us very well. It has a 68" table and causes no problems on 8' boards. Our planer serves to take the kinks out of board faces.

Nancy

[Brian Dormer]

If I had no limits on space and ca$h - I'd get an 8 inch. But I'm perfectly happy with a 6".

[Hunter Wallace]

When I began doing woodworking a 6" jointer was SOOOOO cool!
But as I did more with the hobby there were increasingly more
and more times I needed something bigger, so I got a 12" ShopFox.
Now, wouldn't you know it, I've come accross some nice 16" birdseye
maple that would be nice to joint in one pass!!!:D:p
The mediocrity principle...no matter what you've got you always
want something bigger, better or more!