New to finishing and suffering from information overload

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Up until now, all my projects have been unfinished or painted. Sometime in the next several weeks, I'm going to need to finish about 50 small (3-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 3-1/2") cherry boxes.

Originally, I was planning on using several coats of Minwax "Tung Oil Finish" by it self. After applying it to scrap and allowing it to cure, I don't believe it's going to be the best way to go.

My fiance wants to put little bags of personalized M&Ms in these boxes and give them away at our wedding in June. I want a natural semi-gloss finish that's going to be fairly durable and easy to apply (my fiance wants to help). I'd also like to be able to put additional coats on fairly quickly... daily would probably work well.

I've been reading through a bunch of threads on the subject recently and am now suffering from information overoad.

I see that Jim Becker prefers BLO and Shellac. But for some reason (probably due to my ignorance), I'm afraid M&Ms (even in a bag) and an oil based finish might not be a good combination. But then again, it should be okay if it's covered in Shellac right? After all, M&Ms themselves used to be coated in Shellac.

So I guess at this point, I'm starting to lean towards Jim's combination. Somebody push me over before I start leaning in a different direction! :D

Thanks!

Paul

[Brent Ring]

I'd also like to be able to put additional coats on fairly quickly... daily would probably work well.



I used Watco Danish Oil, let it dry (8 hrs or so) and with a respirator, spray lacquer (Deft is an option) is quick - I put 4 coats on a cherry project in an 8-hour time frame, and could have gone faster. If you get ahead of the curve, and let it cure for 2-3 days after, plastic bags of M&M's should not be a problem - maybe even faster.

I am still a newb to the finishing realm, but it worked well for me to get a finish on quickly.

Other ideas from fellow creekers?

[Sam Yerardi]

Paul,

BLO and shellac work well together but when you're talking about using it related to food, the BLO is safe but doesn't really buy you much related to what you are wanting. Plus, BLO is going to have an objectionable smell for a bit of time (granted the shellac will seal that off). I love the smell of BLO but not with candy or food. Shellac alone will give you a beautiful finish. I would use shellac (amber if you want a bit of color) or white (if you want it clear). After it dries, rub it down a bit with some paste wax and 0000 steel wool. Once it is smoothed down, then polish it with wax & clean cotton rag.

[Joe Chritz]

The BLO is to increase the grain definition and change the look. The shellac will do that somewhat on its own.

Any finish is food safe when cured but many oil finishes off gas for a while and stink up a closed container.

Shellac is a good choice as is any waterbase finish. Waterbase finishes tend to be "bland" by themselves and a coat of shellac under is very common. Since you really don't need any extra protection shellac is fine.

BLO/shellac/topcoat is a very popular finish for cherry for good reason.

There is more finishing info out there then 3 people can learn in a lifetime. One thing that has never failed me is to do a test board. Can't go wrong that way.

Joe

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Well...

What if I use BLO only on the exterior of the box prior to applying the shellac inside and out?

Is such a technique acceptable practice?

Paul

[Sam Yerardi]

That should work but you will still probably get a bit of smell for some time. Try it and see on one box. I would do the shellac on the inside FIRST and then do the BLO on the outside. The smell is really not that bad, and once cured it's safe - it's just that I think you want NO smell when you have a box of candy or food.

[Chris Padilla]

Sure, you can do that but as always: test it first to make sure you like it in the end.

I would think it would be a bit of a pain to NOT get BLO inside the box at the edges but maybe it isn't a big deal. Oil tends to flow and get soaked up, which is great, but maybe not in this case? Dunno...good luck!

[Jim Becker]

You can skip the oil if you prefer...as already stated, it's really to enhance the color and grain. Go right to the shellac. It's perfectly compatible with the M&Ms...since that's what keeps them from melting in your hand.... ;)

[Richard M. Wolfe]

If you were going to use BLO I would only use it on the outside and give it plenty of time to cure. Then hit everything with shellac - for that a half hour and you're "good to go" with no problems with food compatibility.

Interesting about M&M's. My brother worked at an M&M plant and was able to take me through it while M&M's were being made. (Wasn't supposed to but he was high enough up that he got me in). Unbelievable how many steps go into making an "M" as he called them.....and the volume - 22 tons per shift, three shifts and seven days/week. We started at the place where little brown pills (reminded me of a goat pasture :D ) were rolling down a belt. Then this was done and then that; quite a number of steps. I picked one off the line here and there in the process and the taste was not like an "M" until the very last....that's how the formulation was worked out. The last thing - the glossy coating ? - carnuba wax (car wax). The little white 'M' on each one"? - titanium dioxide (the pigment in white paint). At least that's what he told me the formulation was at the time - quite some time back. I've told several people he got in trouble once for putting a bunch of the M's on upside down. :D

[glenn bradley]

The BLO will darken the cherry if that is what you want. If you want a more natural look, just use dewaxed shellac.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=70970&d=1188662269

[Jim Becker]

If you were going to use BLO I would only use it on the outside and give it plenty of time to cure. Then hit everything with shellac - for that a half hour and you're "good to go" with no problems with food compatibility.

Believe it or not, you can oil with BLO lightly, wipe off, let it soak for about a half hour, wipe it clean and coat immediately with de-waxed shellac. I would have never believed it until and article not long ago by Jeff Jewitt. Since then, I've done this frequently. In fact, I built and finished the face frames for my wet bar project that way in just one day from start to final installation. You do want a very light oil...just enough to do it's thing without leaving excess.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Thanks, Jim - good to know. Question: You said a very light oil. Do you mean very light oil - or oiling? If a very light oil I assume there is a difference in brands....which one? My guess is linseed oil is pretty much linseed oil so it's oiling.

OK -- here's an edit....'nother question. You said let it sit a half hour and wipe it down. Wipe down with what? Just a clean shop rag or something like mineral spirits and then let that dry and hit it with shellac?

[Jim Becker]

My "light oil" I mean light application...not the particular oil. Garden variety BLO from the 'borg will look the same as any other BLO and you will not be able to tell it from pure tung oil, either, except for the lower cost and that it (BLO) cures much faster... ;)