Workbench aprons

[Dave Cav]

I'm going to be starting a new workbench in a few months. I have an older hardback copy of Scott Landis' book, and it looks like there are a couple of other workbench books out there I may want to consider, too. I've also been collecting designs and links off the web and have a lot to think about. I haven't even begun to finalize a plan yet, but one thing I noticed on some designs was the inclusion of an apron on the front edge of the bench top, which gives the appearence of the bench top being much thicker than it actually is. Can anyone tell me if there is a good reason (other than liking the way it looks) to include an apron? It seems it would get in the way of clamping things to the bench.

Thanks

[Jameel Abraham]

Make sure you read Christopher Schwarz's book too. Landis' is great, but Schwarz's analysis of actual workholding requirements is very useful, especially for someone without years of bench experience. The appearance of a bench being thick is a ridiculous notion in itself. If ones cares about how a bench looks enough for it to influence functionality, then it just becomes a rather unusual table. What's great about the Landis book is the presentation of several different bench styles and their features. Couple that with Schwarz's book which helps you decided why you want certain features, and you can design a bench that will be good for how YOU work. At least for a while. You might also want to check out Woodworking Magazine's blog. Lots of good bench info there.

[Dewey Torres]

Well Dave…
I had to make the same decision when I built my WB. I bought a simple steel workbench with a solid top from SAMS to start with. Once I got it home I squared the corners off (as they were rounded), added the SOLID OAK Aprons, and then added the under cabinets. The aprons give the bench “heft” and will allow you to build dog holes along them for use with your end vise. You are right that once added you will have to “fill” underneath them to allow for clamping. If you plan to add cabinets under your bench, the apron will give you an additional ¾” outward clearance to allow you to clamp anywhere along the apron and still the bar/pipe that hangs down will not interfere with the handles on your drawer fronts or doors. Additionally, if you plan to put a shoulder vise on your bench you will need aprons to provide a parallel clamping surface that runs the length of the bench rather than being limited to the thickness of your bench top. See my pics:
1) My bench as described
2) Close up where the apron meets the end vise
3) Underside to show how I “filled” the space underneath to give my clamps an even surface.
4) LINK below is what I started with:


http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?dest=5&item=329601 (http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?dest=5&item=329601)


Feel free to let me know if this helps,
Dewey

[Tony Zaffuto]

As already stated, read Chris Swartz's book. Workbenches need built to the type of work you do. I've been building a replacement for my first bench for about three years now and it will have a front apron, primarily because I use handtools and I like the idea of dog holes to support long stock in the apron.

Sides and back will not have an apron and I might split the top in two with a removeable tool tray for those few instances when I need to use the top to help with clamping.

T.Z.

[Jim Becker]

I like Jameels' commentary. I actually do use the edges of my bench for clamping and a large apron would be an issue for that. For me to incorporate an apron, I'd need to make provisions for clamping at regular intervals, which to my eyes, would be a problem aesthetically, too. While I use clamps on the edge less these days because of acquiring and learning how to use my hold-fasts, there are still times when it's necessary...at least for the way I work.

[Dave Cav]

Thanks, guys. I'll be ordering the Schwartz book shortly. Also some great advice in the posts above, I appreciate the input and varying points of view. I will probably go with about a 3" laminated maple top without aprons, as I frequently do clamp things to my bench top with C clamps or wooden handscrews. I am also leaning towards a patternmaker-type vise as my front vise, but nothing cast in concrete yet. I'll keep the group posted as the plans firm up, but first I have to finish the teak display cases for my wife's cut glass collection.