Contractor Saw PALS - I'm confused

[Jeff Cord]

I have a hybrid TS but, since the trunnions attached to the saw top, it is more like a contractor saw in that respect.
I purchased PALS and installed them with no problem.
However, the "hole" in the PAL is actually a "hole" that fits over the bolt rather than a "slot".
I would expect there to be a slot (or at least a hole that is much larger than the bolt) so there is room for the trunnion to move.
The problem is that as I adjust the PAL expecting the trunnion to move to the side there's no room to move since the PAL has a "hole" and no "slot".
All I believe I'm doing is bending the PAL since it cannot move the trunnion.
I hope this description makes sense.
Jeff

[Loren Hedahl]

On my contractor saw the trunnion mounting holes are elongated (slotted) and the PAL holes are not slotted.

Don't know how your hybrid saw is set up.

Perhaps the PAL web site has some information that will enlighten -- or maybe an e-mail address or telephone number.

[Tom Henderson2]

Perhaps the PAL web site has some information that will enlighten -- or maybe an e-mail address or telephone number.

One of the many reasons I've come to detest In-line Industries is that the instructions provided with the PALS kit are useless. BUT -- get this -- they want to SELL YOU a DVD that shows how to use the product that you just paid for.

To the OP -- the PALS should have two L-shaped bits with round holes that are captured by the trunnion bolts (or in many cases you replace the bolts with threaded studs that are part of the PALS kit).

These L-shaped bits should have a setscrew in the short-part of the L. You use that setscrew to push against the trunnion itself, thereby moving the trunnion in the direction you want to go.

When you are happy with the alighment, lock down the setscrews with their locknuts and begin tightening the trunnion bolts, checking the alignment as you go.

I hope this makes some sense. My saw is completely torn apart or I'd take a couple photos.

-Tom H.

[Bruce Wrenn]

The PALS doesn't need to move. It moves the trunnions, via the set screws.

[Jeff Cord]

Tom, I figured out how they work (or are supposed to).
However since the hole on the long part of the L is a hole, not a slot, there's no room for the trunnions to move.
Are my PALS defective? Or is that how they are supposed to be?
Jeff

[Tom Henderson2]

Tom, I figured out how they work (or are supposed to).
However since the hole on the long part of the L is a hole, not a slot, there's no room for the trunnions to move.
Are my PALS defective? Or is that how they are supposed to be?
Jeff

Hi Jeff-

I don't believe your PALS are defective. But I can't help wondering if maybe you aren't quite on the right wavelength about how they are supposed to work.

The PALS fit between the bolt heads and the trunnion with the setscrews on the outboard side. The PALS remain stationary as the setscrew pushes against the side of the trunnion.

This moves the trunnion laterally, which (if you push it the right way) is what you were trying to do all along.

You might need to cough up the $$ for the instructional video.....

-Tom H.

[Doug Shepard]

It's been a long time since I used PALs on my previous Cman contractor saw, but didn't they make more than one version depending on the saw? I know even on the set I bought for the Cman that one of the two couldn't be left on permanently as it wouldn't allow the blade to be tilted all the way over to 45 degrees. I could still adjust with it, but once set I had to remove that one and put the original bolt back in.

[Skyp Nelson]

FWIW, I installed a set on my PM 63. I ended up completly removing both the front and back trunnions to elongate the holes in the table. It was a nightmare of a weekend, but now I can tune her up in a flash. IMO, they breathed new life into the old girl. YMMV

[Rob Smith]

Just wondering if people are also putting these on the front truins aswell, or just in the back by the motor? I ended up just making a pair of these out of angle iron for the back. Though my old craftsman table saw does not allow easy access to the front truin, im curious if people are also doing this to the front truin...

[Ben Cadotte]

Tom, I figured out how they work (or are supposed to).
However since the hole on the long part of the L is a hole, not a slot, there's no room for the trunnions to move.
Are my PALS defective? Or is that how they are supposed to be?
Jeff

Fror the PALS to work they need to stay stationary. The trunion should have a slot (for mount bolt) so it can be adjusted. If the PALS is bending while trying to adjust the trunion something is still tight. Check and make sure you have all the necessary bolts are loose.

One question I have is the L long enough for your application? Are they for your specific machine, or are you trying to get one for another machine to work on yours? The L's need to have at least 1/4" gap so the adjustment screws can go through the L and push on the trunion, and for the trunion to move over some. Sounds like this may be your problem.

I made my own out of angle and screws.

[Ken Shoemaker]

What kind of saw are you working with. I got a Delta and PALS were the best money I ever spent...

[Jason Beam]

When I bought my PALS, they made two kits. But they had nothing to do with the this issue. The only difference between the two kits were the thread pitch of the replacement studs they give you. Some saws use SAE threads, others use Metric ones.

The others have explained how these things work: The slot is in the trunion, not the PALS piece. The set screw should be "up", not "down" and pushing on the trunion and not the head of the bolt. If this is how you have it set up, then you have one of two problems: Something's still tight not allowing the thing to move - OR - you're out of "travel".

I had this on my saw. The direction I needed to go was limited due to the front two bolts not allowing the trunion to twist any further. The saw wasn't THAT far out, it was just adjusted too far to the opposite side in front. This is hard to explain but say the back needs to move to the left a little to get in line. If the front is maxed out to the left already, you may not be able to move to the left any further. By pulling the front end over to "center" it on the slot (allowing maximum travel both directions, just in case), I was able to free up the assembly and adjust things to perfectly parallel. My ZCI noted that my whole blade actually moved to one side a little more than 1/32" because of the shifting around. It's not a design flaw, it's just a limit that isn't obvious at first, I think.

[Ben Cadotte]

Just wondering if people are also putting these on the front truins aswell, or just in the back by the motor? I ended up just making a pair of these out of angle iron for the back. Though my old craftsman table saw does not allow easy access to the front truin, im curious if people are also doing this to the front truin...


I did just the back on my Cman as well with home made angle brackets. Probably really don't need them on the front as I have it dialed in very close. If I was having a problem keeping it adjusted while locking it down then maybe I would think about making a set for the front. But so far just had to do the back the one time and its been good since.

[Greg Peterson]

The PALs remain stationary, anchored by the trunnion mounting bolt. The trunion mounting ears should have elongated holes that the bolts fit through. The set screw on the PAL's needs to make contact with the mounting ear of the trunnion. Make sure the mounting bolts are not tightened down. They should be snug enough to take out any unnecessary play but not tightened down to completely.

Remember that when adjusting the PAL, you are pushing the trunnion away from the PAL. If the PAL on the other side is snugged up against the other trunnion mounting ear, the entire trunnion will not be able to move at all. Make sure the opposing PAL is backed away from the trunnion mounting ear.

As you adjust the trunnion, you will have to back off the opposing PAL a slight distance until you finally get the trunnion squared up. At that point you tighten down the trunnion mounting bolts.

[Jeff Cord]

GI 50-220 which I guess is a hybrid.
I've now figured out how they're supposed to work.
The L bracket is completely stationary and the trunnion is allowed to move.
I guess since I'm not getting any movement means my trunnions are already moved as far as possible.
I'll probably move the trunnions back and move the front of the trunnion over a bit so I can get it straight.
Jeff