best way to install crown molding on top of bookcase

[simo sentissi]

hey there

I was wondering what is the best way of installing crown around top of bookcase. It seemed to me that nailing it from the front might not be too stable (not too much surface against bookcase case front/edging), is there a trick to this ?

Thx

[alex grams]

if it is a solid molding with a square back, you could just glue it. Otherwise if it is an angled back with a void between it the ceiling and the book case, you could cut triangular blocks to fit that space, then glue those to the molding and either glue or screw the blocks to the book case.

Sorry if it is difficult to verbally explain, but hope it helps.

[Jim Becker]

The trick is to fasten solid in the front and allow the side(s) to float if your casework is made from solid stock. Glue-blocks machined to mate with the back of the crown profile will allow you to mount from the top using pocket screws for the face piece as well as the front of the side piece(s). The rear of the side pieces would often be mounted using a sliding dovetail that is not glued so that the molding will not constrict front to back movement of the sides of the casework.

[Prashun Patel]

I'm assuming yr bookcase doesn't go all the way to the ceiling.

The standard way to do this is to attach a 'nailer' block on top of the cabinet faceframe.

A piece of 1x or 2x stock will suffice.

Good: attach the nailer flush with the face frame
Better: cantilever the nailer over the edge of the faceframe so it makes contact with the angled crown.
Best: Angle the nailer so it matches the crown and then cantilever it over the faceframe so it provide maximum contact with the crown.

Use as much glue or adhesive as you can to minimize the nails.

[Jim Becker]

I will add that a pinner can be very useful for this process since these fasteners virtually disappear and will do a nice job holding the molding in place while the glue dries, especially when shot in at a slight angle. 1 3/8" pins have become my fastener of choice for this, particularly when it's for a built-in where the molding needs to be pre-finished.

[Chris Padilla]

1 3/8" pins have become my fastener of choice for this, particularly when it's for a built-in where the molding needs to be pre-finished.


Hmmm..... http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15195

;)

[John Keeton]

Oh, come on Chris! Give ol' Jim a break. It's been over 3 years and we have all learned a lot in that time! I've found I'm a lot smarter now that my kids are adults - I was an idiot back when they were teenagers!

[Chris Padilla]

:D

Never...must always give "ol' Jim" a hard time any time I possibly can! :p

On that note, I just bought myself a Grex P635 23 gauge pinner! :)

[Greg Sznajdruk]

Oh, come on Chris! Give ol' Jim a break. It's been over 3 years and we have all learned a lot in that time! I've found I'm a lot smarter now that my kids are adults - I was an idiot back when they were teenagers!

“ When I was fourteen my old man was so stupid I could barley stand to have him around. When I turned twenty one, I was amazed at how much the old man had learned in seven years”


Mark Twain

[Christof Grohs]

Also helpful if you set a piece of glass (say 12" x 12") on top of your cabinet to use as a horizontal guide. You will be able to look through the glass from above to see where you are nailing and the crown will be dead flush to the top of the case when pushed up to meet the glass.

[Matt Ocel]

I sleep with my 23 guage pinner under my pillow. (Once you get one you will understand)