Picture Frame Glue

[Leigh Betsch]

What are you using for picture frame glue? I've been using System 3 T-88 overnight epoxy and Titebond II but I'm not overly impressed by either. I always cut a spline thru the corners after I get it glued up but I had a few failures before I got the spline cut in with the epoxy so I switched to Titebond. I guess the Titebond really hasn't been an issue but I don't really think it does a good job on the end grain miter, most if not all the strength coming from the spline. Any recommendations?

[J. Z. Guest]

When I built my frame, I used miters and just handled it very gingerly until I had the splines glued into the corners.

Next time, I'm going to use poly glue, since it doesn't shrink as it dries. I'd rather have the expanded bubbles filling the deep pores of the endgrain than nothing.

[Gary Breckenridge]

:cool:Glueing up 45 degree frames is really trying to glue two endgrain pieces together; this can be a problem. I cut the ends to 45 degrees and then I use 3/8" dowels to really hold them together. Titebond II works for me. I have done some frames with half lap joints and then a dowel. I have yet to have a failure. When using 3/4" stock for frames get over 20" I'm sure more strength is needed.:cool:

[Eric Mims]

I just use plain old titebond. I make my frames from oak and it's plenty strong to carry over to the radial arm saw to make spline cuts.

[Jeff Booth]

You can prepare some glue size (~4 parts water to 1 part PVA glue) and coat the end grain 15 minutes before you glue it (with PVA) and that should stop the end grain from pulling the moisture out of the glue too fast. That should strengthen the joint some, hopefully enough to get your splines in.

Jeff

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

I have made literally hundreds frames using this method: I use titebond 2 for the miters then gorilla glue on the splines. I used to use gorilla glue on the miters as well until one day I dropped a frame on workbench that I hadn't splined yet and it broke apart. I'd used titebond 2 or 3 on splines but I'm lazy and poly glue is just easier to apply. I clamp the frames using a simple pony band clamp.

[J. Z. Guest]

I'd used titebond 2 or 3 on splines but I'm lazy and poly glue is just easier to apply.

How so Jim? I find poly glue much more difficult due to the more involved cleanup. I prefer poly glue, but end up using TBIII most of the time to avoid the poly glue clean-up.

[Jim Becker]

Jeremy, with poly glue, it only goes on one surface and the other is moistened...sometimes easier than with PVA. But you are right about the cleanup...and don't get it on your skin, either! And then there is the short shelf life once opened. I hate the stuff.... ;)

[Vic Damone]

I build flimsy thin floating frames for canvas (stretcher) artist. I use Tightbond glues, Frame Co.'s strap clamps, and their Pushmaster fasteners. The gluing surface is unbelievably small so I use enough glue to produce a push out of glue along with at least a 24 hour setup in the clamp.

Once mounted, the stretcher provides most of the frames strength.

I inform my customers of the fragility of the product and they don't seem to care. They're more interested in the minimalist look.

Vic

[Lee Schierer]

Here's a tip: When gluing end grain, which is pretty much what you have on 45 degree miters, either put on lots of glue or "size" the surfaces with thinned out glue before gluing the joints. The reasoning here is that the end grain will soak up the glue and leave the joint glue starved and weak.

[Chris Padilla]

I recently did a bunch of door casings for my house. Not exactly picture frames with only half the miters but here is what I did:

I glued and biscuited the miters. I used Titebond I (red cap; original) specifically because it sets up relatively fast and has a good initial tack. Titebond also has an even thicker, faster setting glue called Molding and Trim but I have no experience with it. I really slopped the glue all over and had a wet rag/towel nearby along with a small jar of hot water and a toothbrush.

My door casings weren't very thick (5/8") nor wide (2.5") and the shape only allowed the use of FF biscuits. The casings were from Lowes and made in Chile of all places from finger-jointed pine.

I glued up the casings on the floor and was able to remove the band clamp an hour later and move on to the next casing glue up. I stood up the casings against a wall and let them dry overnight and then installed them and I was able to wrench pretty good on the casing to get my set-back just right and never popped the joint.

I now have good, tight miters on all my door casings and I don't think they will ever open up or move on me.

[Leigh Betsch]

thanks, It looks like I'll stick with Titebond and just get the splines in place ASAP.

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

How so Jim? I find poly glue much more difficult due to the more involved cleanup. I prefer poly glue, but end up using TBIII most of the time to avoid the poly glue clean-up.

Jeremy, Jim's right. Only need glue on 1 surface. I just dab a bit of poly glue on the, for lack of a better term, hypotenuse of the spline. I moisten the slots with h20 and a 1" sponge brush, and just shove them all the way home, no clamps. I do wear latex gloves though, yich. ;)

[Joe Chritz]

I have been using whatever PVA glue I had at the moment with picture frames and the strength is actually pretty impressive considering the joint mechanics.

I haven't done any testing but 1"wide frame stock was strong enough for me to put pics up without splines just using the glue. Now that I have a pinner I may add a couple for good measure.

Joe