What sandpaper grit do you start with?

[Jeff Moffett]

As I've watched various turning demos over the years, I'm always amazed that the pros start sanding with such a fine grit paper. Obviously, they have much better tool control than me which allows them that luxury. I'm curious to know what grit most of you start with.

[Jim Becker]

Most of the time, no coarser than 120...with a good Ellsworth style shear finishing cut, it's often possible to start even higher. But once in awhile, there is "that turning" that demands the 80 grit gouge.... ;)

BTW, I merged your two threads into this one... :)

[Dennis Peacock]

80 grit most of the time and when I'm doing really well on the tool control? 120 grit.

[Richard Madison]

Many people start with 80 grit, whether they need it or not. The reasoning here is that while the surface may be quite smooth from a skilled finish cut, there may still be hills and valleys on a slightly larger scale that detract from a smooth curve to the workpiece.

And probably quite a few folks can leave a perfectly smooth curve with that skilled finish cut. But not all of us.

[David Wilhelm]

I'm with Jim on this but will have to say there is much more to the question. The type of wood, style of turning, there are so many factors. Sometimes The oval skew will put me starting with 180 then again the type of wood or degree of spalting or end grain tear out I may even use the 60 gouge like someone else is buying it. I was once told "use CA and sand paper like it's free". Boy I wish it was LOL

[Reed Gray]

With spindles, most of the time 180 to 220. With bowls, most of the time at 120. I can usually get away with 150 or 180 on the outside, but the inside never seems to be as clean. I have been experimenting with a shear scrape on the inside of the bowl which could may let me start at a higher grit. I did find that using a firm pad with 120 cuts as well or better than 80 grit on a soft pad.
robo hippy

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jeff - on an average bowl I usually start with 80 grit and that is to get rid of any tearout or bruised areas. On hollow forms I usually start with 120 or 180 as they are a lot earier to get that final shear cut with the bowl gouge.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Depends. If I am using a skew maybe 220 grit. Bowls and HF's if the vertical shear cut is working 180 otherwise 80 or 100.

[Jim Underwood]

If it's really bad, I'll start with 100 grit. Otherwise I usually start with 150.

Why? Because that's what's free. I don't get 120, and 80 is just too coarse for me, and starting with 180 is above my skill level.:D

[Dave Stoler]

I,m learning tool techniques.So as the man that gave a demo on tool technique at our saturday meeting said , "don,t be a pro at sanding,understand tool control."
I normally start at 80. But with the demo under my belt my latest project will start at 120.

[John Taylor]

It varies depending on the wood and how well I have managed to controll the tools.

Usually somewhere between 80 and 240 but I have been known to use 60 grit.

john

[Bruce McElhaney]

I would venture to say most woodturners don't take this stuff too seriously. I try not to let my ego get involved and start with whatever sandpaper grit that's needed. The implied idea that somehow you're not a good woodturner if you don't start with a finer grade sandpaper is just an ego inflation thing. Or say Bill Grumbine. says, "Bunk".

Sure good techinque is important, but it doesn't mean you Must start with fine grit sandpaper to be considered an accomplished woodturner. If some "Pro" want to show off his skill, more power to him. But it shouldn't make others feel less worthy if they can't follow his routine.

Sanding is not an absolute. It depends on many variables, such as, the type and grain of the wood, the particular project and how things are going that day, and the sanding process used. Especially, The type of sandpaper used and how it is applied. Plus, how much time spent sanding and what grits are available. Not to mention the final intention of the project. I usually spend more time sanding fine grained woods than course grain woods. Plus I often start with a higher grit on the outside than the inside.

[curtis rosche]

it depends on the wood and what you are sanding with..... i normally start with 80 but sometimes 60 but the problem with these is if you are doing it by hand if you get lines from them its a lot harder to get out because of how deep they are

[Keith Burns]

You sand ? :eek:

Oh, yeah I sand for sure. Depends on the wood, form, etc. but anywhere from 80 to 150 grit. Higher grits for finials.

[Mark Singer]

My drum sander has 80 and 120 in each of the double drums. So the output is 120 from there I usually go back to 100 sometimes 80 and then up to 220 or 320 in steps. On sculpted projects like the chairs I have 35 grit in the Rotex to start and my first rasps are course the finer and finer. The use of card scrapers will eliminate a lot of course sanding on some projects

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Here’s my view on this. It’s not an “ego” thing or a “show off” thing to start sanding with higher grit and it’s not just to avoid unnecessary sanding. It’s all about the final result. The less sanding done at the coarser grits, the more likely that the form will remain “round”. Slow speed, bevel-rubbing gouge work and 80-grit sandpaper work will both remove wood unevenly and distort the “roundness” of a vessel, especially if there is a combination of end-grain and side-grain to smooth. I can’t always do it, but my goal is to avoid sandpaper coarser than 220-grit; sometimes, with small scale work, I can even start with 320-grit. That’s not to say that I don’t own some 80-grit, but I avoid it as much as possible. A fast rotating piece of wood with a slow moving, well-turned shear scraper, should produce no worst than a 120-grit surface. Just my 2-cents worth.

[Reed Gray]

I have found that 80 grit scratches are as difficult to remove as some of my tool marks.
robo hippy

[Ben Gastfriend]

I start with 120 most of the time. Sometimes on more punky, tear-out prone, or softer woods, I have to start with the sandpaper gouge.

I'd like to know who is able to start with 400 grit? What secrets are you holding back from us?:)

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

I start with 120 most of the time. Sometimes on more punky, tear-out prone, or softer woods, I have to start with the sandpaper gouge.

I'd like to know who is able to start with 400 grit? What secrets are you holding back from us?:)

Ben, starting with 400-grit is possible. It's even possible not to use any sandpaper (but that's rare). This vessel, because of the tendency of the rosewood to stain the birdseye, was never sanded. However, it was scraped with a cabinet card style scraper numerous times between applications of sanding sealer.

[Paul Engle]

Ben, a scraper with a good hook is worth a whole box/s of sandpaper, in flat work the scraper can give a finish no sand paper can touch.I have done cabinet finishes with the scraper and never sanded it as the hook on the scraper cuts the finish that smooth where as sand paper grinds it. Pick one up and give it a try they can come in various radius's and once the hook technique is learned you will amaze your self with how smooth it can be.

[Jeff Moffett]

Part of what prompted me to post the poll was Cindy Drozda's "Elegant Finials" video. She goes from the gouge to 400 grit for her box lids/finials.