Bandsaws: bigger not always better?

[Brian Kent]

In recent months I've read a lot of posts saying that a big saw can do anything a smaller saw can do. Now I see a little shift on that wisdom.

Big saws for resaw,
smaller saws for curves.

Where is the balance for just one saw?

[Mark Engel]

I would think it has more to do with the blade than the saw. A large mchine can pretty much do anything a smaller machine can do, if you use the correct blade.

I use a 14" saw, with riser, and a 1/2" Woodslicer blade for resawing. I also have a Delta 9" tabletop saw that I use for tight curves and trim work, etc. I usually keep a 3/8" blade on that saw.

I relly don't enjoy changing blades on the larger saw.

[Sam Yerardi]

What I find with resawing is I'm always wanting more throat depth to do wider boards. With curves & such I always seem to want more throat width. I guess it depends on your application. If you're wanting something to fit most applications, then bigger is probably better. 14" or larger. I have a 12" and I do ok but it would be nice to have 14 or 16".

[Thom Sturgill]

I've always heard that the bandsaw is one tool where you should always buy the best (biggest) that you can afford. A small saw may not allow a wide blade and even with risers may not allow re-sawing of anything sizable, but a big saw will allow you to install a narrow blade for cutting curves.

[Steven Wilson]

If you want to cut tight curves using small blades then a 12" or 14" bandsaw is probably your best choice. For resaw, normal curves, ripping then go big.

[Mike Spanbauer]

There is merit in the biggest you can afford as you can't resaw wider than capacity on a smaller saw. And you'll likely find that one piece of wood you wish you could resaw without ripping shortly after purchasing a smaller unit.

However, small blades can be a challenge for many to install no bigger machines. The issue isn't blade tracking usually, but the guides themselves. I own an MM16 which does a good job at both. Not cheap, but the flat wheels (vs. crowned) assists with tracking small blades in the ultra-rare need for them for me.

mike

[Jeff Duncan]

As with any other tool it really depends on what your going to do with it. I have a 20" Delta that does everything I need it to. But then again as a cabinetmaker I'm not using it on a daily basis. I would think for most hobby guys a 14" w/ riser block would be enough. If you have the room and money you could certainly get something bigger. But you really need to think about how much use you'll get, and what kind of use.
Guys are always trying to find the 'ultimate' of whatever machine they're looking for, but usually it's not that easy. Oftentimes you'll find shops that do a lot of bandsaw work will have two machines, a smaller 20"+/- and a larger 30"+/- to cover all their bases. Obviously not a good solution for the average hobbiest so you've got to find a happy medium.
good luck,
JeffD

[jason lambert]

You can always mount a thin blade on a big saw you can't mount a think blade on a small saw, hence the resaw problems. The guides have the most to do with accuracy most people upgrade them since most stock ones on smaller saws are not great. I don’t think a 14” band saw would be more better in any way I know of to a 18” or 20” with the same blade. Unless the table size or something else is intimidating or to bulky to work around.

[Mark Engel]

Another interesting point that I will take away from this discussion is the definition of big vs small saws.

I consider my 14" saw to be the 'big' one and the 9" to be the small one. :o

From Jeff's post it would seem that he considers a 20" or smaller to be the small saw and a 30" or larger to be the big saw. I guess it is all in your perspective. :)

[Brian Kent]

Where I see the change in message is in the 20-24" saws. I'm seeing more people recommending two saws if you are going to super-size…

like a 14" for curves and a monster for resaw. There must be some practical upper limit to tracking or ease in blade change.

This is just my curiosity. It's like the guy with a Ford Escort who wonders if I he get by with just a Porsche 911.

[Mark Engel]

To answer the Porsche question first. Yes, you can get by with just a Porsche.;)

When I got my 14" bandsaw I went kind of low end with a Reliant 4 speed. To that I added the 6" riser kit, replaced the guide blocks, purchased an after market fence since it didn't come with one and I also swapped out the 1hp motor for a 1-1/2hp motor. By the time I add up all the dollars I put into this saw, I probably could have bought an 18" saw that already came with most of my 'upgrades'. Live and learn, I guess.

[Jim Becker]

My add to this conversation revolves around frequency of need. My MM16 can certainly perform with any blade width that is within the specifications for the tool; ie, it can do tightly curved scroll work as well as hard-core straight resaw without issue. That said, if I were going to be doing a LOT of scrolling type band saw work, I'd probably be happier also having a small machine available. Why? Two reasons. 1) the table height of the big Euro style saws tends to be a lot lower and isn't as comfortable for "close work" and 2) the readjustments often necessary for working with a very narrow blade on a big Euro style saw take a bit more time to make than just switching blades. Both of these things are for convenience.

By the same token, you "can" do resaw work on a smaller saw, but any kind of quantity makes for a less than pleasant experience due to lower power and weight.

Most of my cutting is straight or mild curves and my 16" Euro style saw is very well suited to my needs. I have not had a band on it narrower than 3/8" yet, although I own both 1/8" and 1/4" blades for it. (As well as cool blocks)

[Lance Norris]

I have 2 bandsaws, both 14", one steel frame-2 horsepower, and the other cast iron-3/4 horsepower. I keep a 3/4" blade on the bigger saw, and an 1/8" blade on the smaller saw. I use the big saw for resaw and ripping and the smaller saw, for curves. I make lots of bandsawn boxes and its nice having both saws set-up this way, because I need both configurations. I feel that the smaller saw has a little more finesse, but I dont know why, or how to explain this. I am just more comfortable cutting curves with the smaller, less powerful saw. They are both very good at what they do.

[Brian Kent]

Lance, are you a professional or hobbyist?

Just wondering who is a member of the double-bandsaw society???

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I'm a member of the double bandsaw society. I keep my old Oliver set up with a 1 1/4" blade to resaw, rip, or rough dimension, and leave the 14" Delta set up with a 3/8" blade for the gazillion other little things a bandsaw is good for.

[Rob Will]

What?????
Are little bandsaws better than big bandsaws for scroll work?
Blasphemy!

Just kidding. Actually, IMHO, when you are swinging materials all over the place doing scroll work you need the extra room of a big bandsaw.

I just did a 4' x 5' puzzle for a neighbor that required swinging the work (1/2" plywood) 180 degrees more times than I care to remember. The Moak 36 worked like.....well......like it is supposed to.

Same guides to adjust on either size saw, just a longer blade on the big ones.

Rob

[Don Bullock]

I'm a member of the double bandsaw society. I keep my old Oliver set up with a 1 1/4" blade to resaw, rip, or rough dimension, and leave the 14" Delta set up with a 3/8" blade for the gazillion other little things a bandsaw is good for.

While I'm not there yet, I agree with Steve. When I bought my 14" I had no intention of using it for resawing. That's something I've never done. When I do start resawing I will get a larger "dedicated" saw for that purpose and keep the 14" for the rest of my bandsaw needs.

[John Fry]

I also have two saws.

My Laguna 24 X 24 is fitted with a power feeder, roller fence, and 1-1/4" 1.7 TPI carbide blade. It is a dedicated resaw usually used for shop sawn veneers.

My second saw is a Grizzly 14" that I keep a 5/16" 10TPI that I use for cutting curves, shaping legs, and just running over and cutting something on. I never de-tension this saw, I'm just too lazy and like that it is always ready to cut!

[Kev Godwin]

I didn't know I too was a member of the "double-bandsaw society" until I read this. Wow, I didn't even have to apply or pay any dues!:p

I use my 14 inch grizz with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch blade for larger work and my 10 inch Delta with 1/8 or 1/4 inch blade for small cuts. I'd say I use the little Delta about 60-40 compared to the Grizz. I guess it just depends on the type of work you do....

[Eric Mims]

if I could, I'd turn my entire workshop into a giant bandsaw, with the 40' blade coming down from the ceiling in the middle of the room, through a table and into a conduit in the floor and back to the wall. ;)

[Lance Norris]

Lance, are you a professional or hobbyist?

Just wondering who is a member of the double-bandsaw society???

Brian... I am a hobbyist. I love the bandsaw. It is my favorite power tool. I have a smaller basement shop and if I didnt already have a Delta cabinet saw, I might not even have a table saw. If I were starting out again, it would probably be bandsaw only.

Oh... and I am a member of the triple bandsaw society.

[Brian Kent]

Eric. Don't trip. Please.

[Wayne Cannon]

The factory guides on some large bandsaws will not accommodate very narrow blades. For example, the European-style guides on my 18" Jet will only reasonably accommodate about a 1/4" blade without a high likelihood of the teeth hitting the guides. The after-market Carter replacement guide set works fine, however.