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Russ Hauser
03-17-2008, 8:22 AM
I recently ran accross an article here explaining how to remove rust using electrolysis, now I can't find it. Can someone direct me to it, or supply a link.

Russ

George Sanders
03-17-2008, 9:10 AM
Just google it and you'll get all kinds of pages on how to do it.

Grant Vanbokklen
03-17-2008, 7:47 PM
just curious, is this process used on old planes? Would it hurt the japaning?

Wilbur Pan
03-17-2008, 8:17 PM
There are a number of webpages that show how to remove rust by electrolysis, but my favorite ones are here (http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm), here (http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/), and here (http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html).

As far as the electrolysis procedure removing japanning, the answer is "probably". If the japanning is over a rusty area of the plane body, even a slightly rusty area, it will peel off. On the other hand, it probably was going to peel off eventually. For japanning on a pristine part of the plane, it will most likely stay on.

Greg Muller
03-17-2008, 9:12 PM
Wow, that looks way too painful to use for removing the hair off my back!
:eek:

:rolleyes:

yeah, I know. Bad.

Greg

Tom Veatch
03-18-2008, 10:57 AM
Wilbur gave you some links, so I'll only offer a few comments.

First, be very, very sure about the polarity of the connections. The workpiece MUST be the cathode (- terminal). Reversing the connection is a sure way to destroy the workpiece. DAMHIKT. BTW, I need a frog for a Stanley 113 compass plane if anyone has one laying around somewhere.

Second, be aware that using stainless steel as the anode (+ terminal) will release chromium into the electrolysis bath forming chromates that make the bath water a hazardous waste per EPA regulations. I personally don't believe the chromate levels are significant in a home shop operation, but avoiding a stainless steel anode is the more prudent approach.

Third, electrolysis breaks down the water in the bath into its constituent hydrogen and oxygen. Those are the bubbles that come off the electrodes. I've seen a lot of hysteria about the danger of an explosion from an accumulation of the gases. If you're seriously concerned about that, do the operation in a well ventilated area. But, the danger is virtually non-existant. I've even made intentional efforts to ignite the bubbles and have never been able to do so. Unless you run the process in a completely sealed volume you'll never confine the hydrogen long enough to develop a combustible mixture.

M Toupin
03-18-2008, 7:42 PM
Russ,

Here's one I did a while back

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=731194&postcount=14

Mike

Jeff Hallam
03-23-2008, 8:07 PM
I wrote an article that WoodCentral chose to include on their site. Just look under "Articles". The title is "Hand Plane Restoration" by Jeff Hallam

Hopefully it helps you. I attached some pics of the results that I have had. I am not a collector, just a user so I did in fact re-japan a few of my restores.

On another note, has anyone tried the "Evapo-Rust" that LV started selling recently? I would like to know how it's performance compares to electrolysis.

Jeff

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Randal Stevenson
03-24-2008, 2:11 AM
On another note, has anyone tried the "Evapo-Rust" that LV started selling recently? I would like to know how it's performance compares to electrolysis.

Jeff


I am also interested as my local auto parts store carries one of those type products (may or may not be exactly Evapo-Rust). There are times that electrolysis would be too much for something that has very little surface rust.

Gary Herrmann
03-24-2008, 3:20 AM
I wonder if evaporust and others work like oxalyic acid in that they remove the rust but also the shine from the metal - leaving a dull gray/black film.

Randal Stevenson
03-25-2008, 11:27 AM
I am also interested as my local auto parts store carries one of those type products (may or may not be exactly Evapo-Rust). There are times that electrolysis would be too much for something that has very little surface rust.

Just a bump!

Jeff Hallam
04-03-2008, 5:13 PM
Update:

I wanted to pass on that I have tried the "Evapo-Rust" product we were talking about earlier and it seems to be very promising. The product claims to be non-toxic and doesn't harm paint or other metals like brass etc..

I put a few pieces from a hand plane in for about 4 hours and simply rinsed off with water, then a quick wipe with a rag. I'm sorry I don't have before and after pics for you guys, but I will say that if anyone is uncomfortable with electrolysis then this stuff is the way to go. Very little (if any) odour and it claims that it can be re-used multiple times. If it wasn't for the fact that I have all the materials for electrolysis already then I would switch over. Electrolysis is free, but this stuff was easy to use.

I have a number of items that I will be cycling through my little container, so we will see how many uses I get out of the the 1 litre size.