Newbie table saw fence question-rail length?

[James Fleming]

While reading many discussions and reviews about table saws and fences I have noted the comment that if you want to rip sheet goods, you need a fence that can be located 48" to the right of the blade. My question is: Why do I need more than 24"? Is there some reason that I shouldn't rip a sheet of plywood with the narrow cutoff strip next to the fence?

[Jim Becker]

It depends upon how much you trust the factory edge as well as how well you are set up for material support. If you are comfortable handling material that way, no problem. Personally, with a North American design saw, I prefer to have the heavier portion of the material supported by the saw extension table during the cut so I can concentrate on getting a smooth feed.

[David DeCristoforo]

If you think about it, the "factory edge" thing is somewhat of a "misconception". If the factory edges are not parallel, it does not matter how you rip your sheets. Either way you are using a "factory edge" as a reference. So the idea that if you have a 48" rip capacity you can trim the factory edge does not "hold water" because the two edges are still not going to be parallel. Of course, trimming the edge because it is not "clean" is a different story but you could do it just as easily by splitting a sheet and then trimming the "outside" edges. The only "really good" way to square up a sheet on a TS is to have a sliding table. Having said that, there are many times when you need to cut a piece wider or longer than 24". This is much easier if you can run your stock on the fence. Having the "fall down" piece on the fence means that you have to measure the fence position very carefully because the fence's "cursor" does not allow for the kerf which will vary from blade to blade. Also, the sheets may not all be exactly the same width so cutting several sheets this way means at least one extra step.

YM

[Jim Becker]

I was referring to "clean and straight", Yoshikuni, not parallel. That would only be an issue if you were trying to absolutely maximize splitting a sheet down the middle.

[David DeCristoforo]

"...referring to "clean and straight"..."

"Clean"... I'm with you. "Straight"? Not so much. If the "factory edge" is not straight "out of the box" and it's used as a "reference", it's not likely that the cut will be straight either.

YM

[Joe Chritz]

I have very rarely need any space beyond the 36" capacity that I currently have. I have needed more than 24" many times.

It is always better to have the biggest piece against the fence so I can see a reason to go up to 48" or larger.

Another tool, like a guided saw can help make up the difference if rip capacity is lacking.

Joe

[David DeCristoforo]

"It is always better to have the biggest piece against the fence so I can see a reason to go up to 48" or larger."

The only "problem" is "where does it end?" What if you need to cut one foot of an 36" wide sheet? The you need an 84" "rip"!!! You can use a "sled" of course but my whole point is that it's not really necessary to have more than 24". It's just nicer if you have more capacity. But that's pretty much the case with everything. In truth, there is always a way to do the job with what you have. In most cases, a 24" rip is perfectly sufficient. But keep dreaming about that 2,000 sq ft shop with the big Martin sitting in the middle!

YM

[Joe Chritz]

One other reason to go larger on the rip capacity was a recent trip to price out a Sawstop. There was a grand total of about $40 between 36" and 52". Another $50 for a shop built extension table.

On a couple thousand dollar purchase (someday) I don't see $40 or $90 as an issue. Shop size, however is and I don't think I can make a 52" work well with my other tools filling the space. SO I expect to stay at 36" and work around it when needed.

Joe

[Rob Will]

James,
I think we might be missing a very important point here. What if you want to crosscut a sheet of plywood in half? I do this all the time on my TS.

I think anyone who has room for a 50" Beisemeyer fence should own one.

If you can maintain 8' open space to the left of your saw blade, and with the 50" fence to the right, ANY cut on a 4x8 sheet is possible.

Good luck with your decision.

Rob

[James Fleming]

Thanks everyone for the variety of answers! There is obviously more here to consider than I thought at first!

[gary Zimmel]

I agree, if one has the space go 50".

I have a 50" Beis. and don't go past 30-36" very often but it sure is nice to use as another table to put stock when I'm working at the TS.....

[David DeCristoforo]

"What if you want to crosscut a sheet of plywood in half?"

Ahh... yes. That's a whole different "can of worms". But the OP's question was specifically about ripping sheets and you know how much we like "hair splitting".... There can be no doubt that the basic principle of "more is better" applies here.

YM

[Lance Norris]

My father was a cabinet maker and when I was younger, I was his outfeed table/material support. He used an old Craftsman table saw from the 1950s with a 24" capacity fence. We built thousands of small to very large cabinets and built-ins, with this saw. When I was considering what cabinet saw to buy, I told him I was buying a saw with a 50" Unifence. His response was "why do you need such a large fence capacity?" My shop wouldnt handle a 50" fence rail, but the saw I bought came with this length, so I cut it down to 32" and never have needed the extra capacity. I wont argue that 50" would be nice, but working with sheet goods, IMHO 24" is all you need.

[Lance Norris]

Cross cuts were handled with a worm drive.

[Jim Becker]

"...referring to "clean and straight"..."

"Clean"... I'm with you. "Straight"? Not so much. If the "factory edge" is not straight "out of the box" and it's used as a "reference", it's not likely that the cut will be straight either.

Um...that's my point. ;)

[David DeCristoforo]

"Um...that's my point..."

OK. Sorry if I missed that...

YM

[Davis Jefferies]

Had a chance to pick up a Delta Uni Fence 50" for 75.00. Couldn't pass it up and thought, OK, if I ever need it I will have it. Well, I have used it up to 48" a whole bunch more than I ever thought. If you have the room, Jump on it.

[Ben Grunow]

Decide after figuring out what you will cut.

I rarely use my 36" fence but now I am making a kitchen and use it all the time. I think if cabinetry is in your future then get the biggest fence youcan.

[Brian Penning]

I don't know about you folks but personally I haven't come across any sheets of ply in which the factory edge wasn't straight.
Of course us Canucks are generally considered to be more "straight" than you Yanks most of the time. :p;):) At least back in the 60s and 70s...