Sharpening jigs for chisels

[chris del]

I am currently using the Veritas MKII honing guide for all my chisles and plane blades.
I think I prefer the idea of using a jig that holds the chisles sides.
What are you guys using? Are there any really good quality chisel sharpening jigs?

Chris

[Jim Koepke]

I am currently using the Veritas MKII honing guide for all my chisles and plane blades.
I think I prefer the idea of using a jig that holds the chisles sides.
What are you guys using? Are there any really good quality chisel sharpening jigs?

Chris

For hand sharpening, I like to do it free hand. I do have a Veritas MKII power sharpening system that has guides. This is usually only taken out when a bunch of blades come my way that need a new bevel or have chips or other problems.

If the blades have been sharpened and not allowed to get real dull, then a few minutes on the stones free hand is all it takes.

jim

[Jim McFarland]

MKII for plane blades and this one for chisels:
http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/P79117.htm

I've also seen one like this at Woodcraft.

[Terry Beadle]

I've always thought that this jig would be the best for chisels. It's wide stability keeps the squareness issue at bay. However, I use the cheaper $10 side holding Tiwanease import. Works but doesn't hold short bladed chisels and I had to adjust it's side holding surfaces to get it to hold a chisel fairly square.

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=83%2E100&dept_id=13113

[David DeCristoforo]

"For hand sharpening, I like to do it free hand..."

I agree with Jim. I use a jig/blade holder only when I need to take off a lot of steel because it is more comfortable to hold the blade and really "get down" on it. But for "day to day" sharpening, it takes longer to get the jig set up than it does to hone the blade. It does not take that much practice to get the hang of maintaining the bevel. If you use a jig, you may never get the "feel" for doing it without the jig.

BTW, it's a lot easier to "learn" with a larger chisel or with plane blades because the increased area of the bevel is easier to keep flat.

YM

[chris del]

Man. I love the looks and design of that Richard Kell jig! Thanks for pointing it out!!! I will have to order one so it is here when my LN socket chisels show up!!!!

[Jim Koepke]

MKII for plane blades and this one for chisels:
http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/P79117.htm

I've also seen one like this at Woodcraft.

Met a guy at a flea market who teaches woodworking.

His advise for sharpening jigs was the cheapest always seemed to work the best.


I've always thought that this jig would be the best for chisels. It's wide stability keeps the squareness issue at bay. However, I use the cheaper $10 side holding Tiwanease import. Works but doesn't hold short bladed chisels and I had to adjust it's side holding surfaces to get it to hold a chisel fairly square.

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=83%2E100&dept_id=13113

This looks nice, but some of my stones would be at a loss to accommodate the outboard wheels with wider blades.

jim

[Mark Stutz]

I've used both the LV, MK I and MK II, as well as the Eclipse. I'm practicing doing them freehand however, and really finding that it is not as hard as it looks, especially with thicker blades and a hollow grind. I'm still having lots of trouble with narrow chisels and have been looking at the small Kell jig just for those. I'll probably not give up the jigs completly, but for quick touchups, I'm finding a couple of quick passes by hand on the 8000 and then a strop works great.

Mark

[Don Naples]

If maintaining a bevel angle is important, then when using a guide, make sure it references off the back of the chisel. Some chisels are of even thickness when viewed from the side, while others are tapered. If you just extend the chisel a measured amount as is recommended on some side clamping jigs, you may be changing the bevel angle.
Another tip is if you are hand holding and not using a jig, when sharpening laminated steel chisels, keep the pressure on the cutting edge, as the softer metal holding the hard steel will abrade more quickly and cause the bevel angle to become more acute. This will weaken the support of the hard steel.

[Brent Smith]

Hi Chris,

The Kell jig is nice, but like most jigs, you'll be limited to how much of your stone you use with it, this leads to needing to flatten more often. I have one and use it mainly for smaller, hard to hold blades like plow blades. As others have said, free hand is the way to go.