First Post: New shop, what would you do?

[Kevin Slankard]

Been around for a week or two ease dropping on all of yalls conversations. It's finally came time for my shop to built so I came out of my shell.

I'm getting a new shop built this Friday. Its a metal building, 20x30x9. It's going to be made from 12g 2" square tubing with sheet metal. I'm trying to decide how I want to finish the inside of the building. I'm in SE Texas, its gonna be hot and humid in the summer, and cold and humid in the winter. I'm going to have a 9x7 door on the north end and a 9x7 on the west wall, south end. Should be good for getting good air flow with a shop fan. I'm wanting to finish the inside with a some sheeting. I've gotten suggestions any where from T-111, plywood, OSB, to sheetrock.

The wall poles are going to be 5' apart. So, 4x10 1/2" sheetrock is really sounding good. I can get it for 7.50 a sheet around here. My only concern is the 5ft spacing. Might be easy to break being flimsy. I could run some 1x2 or 1x4 runners say 4ft and 8ft off the ground all around the building and then mount what ever sheeting over this.

How would you guys/gals do this? I'm gonna do all my wiring before hand, thats for sure. Any other suggestions for turning this type building into a woodshop?

I really enjoy listening and learning from everyone. I can't wait to get my shop going so I can move my tools out of the garage.

Thanks

Kevin

[John Cooper2]

I used OSB and sure do like it, Paint it bright white and enjoy.

The 10' spacing will be a problem, will have to do some framing between the post.

I thought about sheetrock, but also thought about how many holes I would be punching in it. With the OSB, things just bounce off of it. Even when a stray hammer goes flying across the shop....(don't Ask)

[Eric Haycraft]

General advice.. Tons of outlets. 1 110 20 amp and a 20 amp 220 every 5 feet or so. Scatter some 30 amp 220 in for extra flexibility. In general, wire it without thinking about where machines will go, wire for any situation and then you can rearrange things without having to rewire.

Try to have some or all walls done in plywood. You can then attach lighter object anywhere on the wall without having to worry about hitting a stud. Plywood attached with screws and no glue will allow you to get behind the panels to adjust wiring later.

5 foot spans for attaching sheetrock or plywood is too far. You may be able to attach 2 by material horizontally every two feet and that should work.

In terms of insulation, foam is best, but a steel building may be tight enough for fiberglass to be effective. If not always heating/cooling it, 1" of foam would probably be enough.

[Chris Friesen]

Sheetrock should be fine...even if you punch holes in it it's easy to repair. On the other hand, OSB is almost as cheap. Whatever you use, paint it white.

Give some thought as to how you're going to hang upper cabinets and such. You might want to make the horizontal members fairly beefy...like 2x4 or 2x6.

Do a bunch of electrical outlets. 120V every 5 feet is nice, with a couple circuits playing leapfrog so that adjacent outlets are on different circuits. I've got them even closer over my workbench, which is nice. I'm not sure you need 240V every 5 feet, but every 10 might make sense.

Insulation is good for minimizing temperature shifts. Spray foam gets you the best insulation per thickness, but it's expensive. Fiberglass batts are simplest if you're doing it yourself, but for the ceiling it may actually be cheaper to hire someone to blow it in.

What sort of floor are you thinking? If it's a dedicated wood shop you might consider putting down plywood or osb on the floor. It's easier on the feet (and dropped tools) than bare concrete.

[Bill Wyko]

Insulate the heck out of it, wire it to the gills and sheetrock it. Make room for some sort of climate control at some time or another and wire for it. IMHO:)

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

I built a 32'x50' in my yard in 1995. I regret not installing dust collection PVC duct in floor. Also, I wish I built a small ell or interior room for finishing and another for mechanical and dust collection. No running water so I don't have a water closet....that's another regret. I wish I at least roughed in plumbing in slab for that.
Living in New England, I wished I put in radiant heat in slab, I use radiant overhead heating. That might not be a concern for you living in the south. Hope this helps.

[Matt Meiser]

I'd frame between the poles with 2x4s's Insulation would probably be worthwhile too if you want to heat and cool the space. My pole barn has wood poles spaced 8' apart and was unfinished when we bought the place. At the recommendation of a local lumber yard, we laid a PT 2x4 on the slab between the poles and toenailed it into the poles. Next, we cut 23.5" blocks and nailed them to the poles. On top of those we added a horizontal 2x4 which was nailed to the blocks and poles. We continued that up the wall. The space between were filled with R19 insulation and we covered everything with 7/16" OSB. Including building a 32' x 12' high 2x4 wall, two of my brothers and I were able to complete all of that in 2 days.

I do have running water fed by a frost-free hydrant installed by a previous owner. Right now, just a slop sink that drains out onto the driveway, but I did get a small hot water heater which is really nice to have. Eventually I'd really like to put a bathroom out there, and if/when I do that I may also move my office (I work from home) out there so that I get out of the house.

[Thom Sturgill]

I would agree with the suggestion that you need horizontal stringers every 16" to 2'. Make two of them 2x6 - one at about counter height and one higher for cabinets and other heavy objects that might get wall mounted. Insulate, over wire and cover with your choice. As was said, sheetrock is easy to repair, but OSB gives you something to screw to, especially with a good backer.

Also, what about windows? you need some good natural light for finishing.

[Norris Randall]

Did not see this mentioned. If I could start over there would be dust collection pipes under the slab and I would have air connections in multiple places with quick connects to the compressor.
I saw other have said you can get too many electircal outlets.

Years ago when my new warehouse was in the planning stages an old friend said, predict what size you will need in 5 years...... then double it.
Wish I had trippled.

[Adam Cavaliere]

...and cold and humid in the winter.

LOL - I don't know what your definition of cold is, but I'll take it!

Anyway - sounds like a great shop you are going to have. I am VERY jealous!

[Greg Hines, MD]

One thing to consider as to what to put on the walls. From what I have seen, slat wall siding is a very good product, and supports cabinets, shelves, etc. I am not sure about the 5' spacing, but it is certainly something to consider. You also do not need to worry about damaging it like sheetrock, nor does it need to be painted. It also won't grow mold and fungus like the paper covering on the drywall at the folks house in east Texas.

Doc

[Kevin Slankard]

Thanks for all the responses. I think I'm going with the OSB. I'm gonna frame up between the 5ft metal poles with some 2x4's. I plan on having plenty of electrical outlets, but how high to put em is on my mind now. Should I go low as normal around 12" or so, or higher, 24" - 30". I'm thinking it would be nicer not having to bend over as much, but then it could pose more of a tripping hazard then the lower outlets.

You wouldn't believe how "cold" it gets down here!!LoL!! It's that wet cold you hear about. Humidity can really make hot HOT and cold COLD!! I know its not like the cold up north, but for us Texans it sure feels cold.

Thanks again guys. I'm anxiously waiting for the guys to show up and start my workshop right now.

[Thom Sturgill]

I plan on having plenty of electrical outlets, but how high to put em is on my mind now. Should I go low as normal around 12" or so, or higher, 24" - 30".

I think the consensus around here is is to put them about 50" above the floor. That puts them above any table pushed against the wall and even above a piece of sheet goods leaned against the wall. Since your door is large enough that this could be considered a 'garage', code might require that they be above 30" (I'm not sure of the exact height requirement) and be protected from ground faults (GFCI).

[Chris Padilla]

Should I go low as normal around 12" or so, or higher, 24" - 30".

I'd do the normal height of a foot or so but then run another right above it at 50" - 52". You'll want to make sure your outlet covers are above the 4' zone.


You wouldn't believe how "cold" it gets down here!!LoL!! It's that wet cold you hear about. Humidity can really make hot HOT and cold COLD!! I know its not like the cold up north, but for us Texans it sure feels cold.

Cool wet winters, warm dry summers: that describes the Bay Area pretty well. I'm originally from Colorado and thought when I moved out here 10 years ago that I'd be walking around in my shorts year round. I couldn't have been more wrong about that. That damp cold really gets to you!

[John Keeton]

I have a metal pole building with framing between the 6x6 posts with OSB on the interior painted with cheap white paint. After running the electric and before the OSB, had the entire interior sprayed with 1 1/2" - 2" of closed cell polyurethane foam. It is tight, quiet, and warm in the winter, cool in the summer. It was a little more costly, but figure I get it back in lower heat bills and comfort. Didn't do the DC in the floor, but definitely great idea. Put my plugs at about 54", and thought I put in enough - didn't. Can't have too many. I agree with Eric on the plugs and circuits. I used baseboard heat, but would prefer radiant in the floor. Couldn't justify the cost at the time, but wish I had bit the bullet.