?? Zip-r type screw brands/sources ??

[Tim Thomas]

I'm going to be building some kitchen cabinets in the near future and have been reading every thread I can find on that subject here at the Creek. One common thing that is mentioned frequently is the use of zip-r, or zip'r, screws. These screws sound like the way to go for joining the carcass parts together, but after an exhaustive internet search I still don't know EXACTLY what to buy and from where. So, that is the setup and here is the question:

If you have used zip-r screws (or something similar) to build cabinets, what brand of screws did you use and where did you purchase them? If you want to give more details that would be great. Do you prefer square drive, phillips, other? What size/length of screw is preferred for joining 3/4 carcass parts? Were you happy with the performance of the screws and would you use them again?

I have found so many different types/brands of this general style of screw that it makes me a bit wary. I don't want to buy a box of 1000 cheap-o screws that bulge out my plywood, snap off heads and strip out. I think the screws are a huge part of this project because if I pick the right ones it will make the cabinets much stronger and easier to assemble. Picking the wrong ones could turn this into a nightmare. With all the other money I'll be spending on the kitchen I think it is certainly in my best interest to make sure I don't chimp out on the "little" things. Thanks to everyone in advance for your time and expertise.

[Peter Quinn]

Zip r screws come from Hafele, you have to set up an account to buy from them and the minimum quanties are large. They are great screws and hafele direct has the best prices per screw, but you have to be in business and buy in quantity to get them there.

Several sources sell the same thing or something very similar. McFeallys sells "woodworking screws", cabinetparts.com sells "assembly screws, Highland hardware.com sells woodworking screws as do others. The critical factors are the deep threads for holding power, the hardness and strength vrs sheetrock screws, the self piloting tips and the self counter sinking nibs under the head. Most of these speciality screws look similar to sheetrock screws but perform vastly better for joining cabinet carcuses. They aren't cheap but they are worth every penny.

I am presently using SPAX screws, which I think originate from Hafele, but I purchased them at Highland hardware. They hold like nothing I have seen and require no predrilling on plywood or solid wood, I've had mixed results in MDF. I typically use 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" #6 or #8 to join 3/4" material. You'll find a lot of debate on the exact length/gauge, personally don't think its critical, just preference. The SPAX can be driven into anything from concrete to hard maple, they are probably overkill for plywood and not worth the added expense, I bought one box to expirement.

I got the combi drive heads so I can use either square or philips to drive the screws. If I had to pick one I'd go square drive.

[Rob Wright]

Tim - I will ditto what Peter said. I have used Spax, the house brand Type 17 auger pointed screws from McFeely's, as well as Confirmats. I like to use square drive to prevent cam out. I will also stress that you should not use "drywall" screws - they are brittle and not meant for construction.

I have been experimenting with Confirmat screws and will be using them on my next project for my basement wet bar. They are a little more expensive, you have to buy a special drill bit, and use a pozi driver for installation. They work great in MDF and Particle board and were specifically designed for that use.

that all being said check out this link:

http://www.hafele.com/us/services/haefele-library/4293.htm

Describes some of the screw options.



- Rob

[Tim Thomas]

Thanks for the replies. These are the kinds of details I was looking for. The links and specifics that you replied with are pointing me in the right direction and I think I'll be able to buy the right thing now. I'm definitely going to use specialty screws like these and not drywall screws. Thanks again.

[Joe Chritz]

I use the ones from Woodworkers supply. Assembly screws are their name and they have deep threads and a #17 point. (thats the cutting point)

Any good screw with a #17 point and countersink nibs will work.

I have used some from other places but generally I have the WW supply ones on hand since I order a few hundred every time I order something else.

I only ever broke on 2.5" screw going into oak nearly the full distance and didn't clearance drill very well. A little wax on the threads and they zip right into face frames no problem. Cabinet stock is so easy as to be scary.

Joe

[Jim Becker]

For plywood carcases, I typically use #8 square drive screws from McFeeley's, but have also acquired some Confirmat screws and a step drill to try that method on an upcoming project that I may use a composite material. I always pre-drill and countersink for the former, too. That said, much of the carcass work I do is assembled using pocket screws and glue at this point.

[Ray Schafer]

I also have gotten and used "ultimates" which are essentially the same thing as "Assembly screws." They work very well.

I want to get a large quantity of Zip-r screws but I need to get a business license first -- hafele will only sell to businesses. I am going to get the 8s and 6s -- sometimes I like to use the thinner screws to reduce the chance of going out the side of the plywood.

[Larry James]

I'm going to be building some kitchen cabinets in the near future and have been reading every thread I can find on that subject here at the Creek. One common thing that is mentioned frequently is the use of zip-r, or zip'r, screws. These screws sound like the way to go for joining the carcass parts together, but after an exhaustive internet search I still don't know EXACTLY what to buy and from where. So, that is the setup and here is the question...

Tim, I'm had the same question, thanks for asking. Also, thanks to the "in the know" Creekers who answered.

Larry