And the fun begins..... yet another DC project!

[John Keeton]

After weeks of absorbing all the experiences and ideas from this great group of folks, I bit the bullet and ordered a 2.5 hp Super Gorilla cyclone system. It came in today - 6 boxes!- and now the real fun begins. I will have to move several things in the shop in order to install this thing. I should have been doing that already, but would rather work on the current woodworking project! I was dreading the install, but after getting delivery, I'm starting to actually get excited about this thing. I will try to take pics along the way and post if anyone's interested. Figure everybody's about burnt out on the DC topic, but I can really start to feel the difference after a day in the shop, and I didn't use to be able to do that. Hoping this will prevent some of the problems others are already having. Wish me luck....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Go John!


Saturday while setting up my new MM-16...I sawed for about 30 seconds without DC......I won't make that mistake again. Much cleaner with!

Good luck with your install!

[Shawn Honeychurch]

Good luck John;

Have fun and enjoy the learning process.

Shawn

[Jim Becker]

Congratulations, John! BTW, do not underestimate the need for the assistance of one or two people when you hang the blower assembly, etc. It's heavy and awkward. Don't get hurt or damage the unit by being "under-staffed" during that portion of the assembly!

[Jerry Booher]

John, you may want to see all of the mistakes I made installing the 2.5 Super Gorilla to help you avoid them. http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=74376

Jerry

[John Keeton]

Thanks for the encouragement! I know Ken has recently gone through this and I enjoyed reading about his project. Many of the experiences of the other creekers will hopefully have helped me avoid some potential problems.

And Shawn, I was much smarter when I was a teenager! Since then, I have discovered how much I need to learn - everyday! Just studying this project has already been an interesting project.

Jim, I had already read some posts on getting the motor and impeller installed on top of the unit and it is apparent after lifting that box I am going to need help. It wasn't too bad on the ground, but on a ladder would be a challenge. I am not a big person anyway and I am installing my unit high so that I can run my duct in a straight run from the outlet at about 8.5 feet high. That is going to increase the difficulty of getting the weight up there, but I think the end result will be more efficient.

I have ended up going with 6" hvac for ducting. Apparently the petroleum pricing is driving pvc costs up more than even the metal costs. It was going to cost 3 to 4 times as much to go with pvc compared to the hvac.

Just saw Jerry's reply and have edited my reply. Jerry, I did see your previous post and went back to the drawing board in thinking out my system. I have more headroom than you did, and am able to install higher and still clear the motor. The real issue will be getting the motor up to about 10 feet or more from floor level!!

[Jim O'Dell]

John, I built a separate stand for my unit (A Clear Vue) I have 2 vertical 2X4s and built triangular based arms that slide up and down those. Mounted the motor and blower housing to that, and "walked it" up the 2X4s with some screws protruding the lower end of the triangle support so that it would grab the wood when I needed to regroup and get higher on the ladder for the next push. Kind of like a lineman walking up a telephone pole with the spikes on the feet. Once I got to the level I wanted. I ran the screws on in, plus some at the top end to secure it. The top of my motor is about 10' off the ground. I did this by myself, but shouldn't have. I paid the price with a strained back, for a week or so, getting the motor up on the unit about 6' off the ground. I should have started a lot lower and moved up from there. So get help! Jim.

[John Keeton]

Jim

My first thought is to use the metal wall mount that comes with the cyclone. I have a metal shop building and am concerned that I will get a lot of extra transmission of noise. May end up afterward constructing a wooden stand like you to carry the machine and isolate the noise. Sounds like a workable plan on the "jack lift" system you built. The Clear Vue motor is much larger and heavier. I haven't gotten a good feel for the weight of the 2.5hp motor, but it seems considerably lighter than Ken's upgraded 3hp at 105lbs. I would guess mine weighs 75lbs. I am considering a block/tackle set up on a truss. There have been some comments about downward force on the truss, but my shop is insulated with closed cell foam spray and that goes a long way to spread any force on the individual trusses and it isn't really that much weight. But, still cipherin' on the motor plan!

[gary Zimmel]

John

Congrats and happy installing...

Keep us up to date on how it progresses.

[Travis Gauger]

Jim

My first thought is to use the metal wall mount that comes with the cyclone. I have a metal shop building and am concerned that I will get a lot of extra transmission of noise. May end up afterward constructing a wooden stand like you to carry the machine and isolate the noise. Sounds like a workable plan on the "jack lift" system you built. The Clear Vue motor is much larger and heavier. I haven't gotten a good feel for the weight of the 2.5hp motor, but it seems considerably lighter than Ken's upgraded 3hp at 105lbs. I would guess mine weighs 75lbs. I am considering a block/tackle set up on a truss. There have been some comments about downward force on the truss, but my shop is insulated with closed cell foam spray and that goes a long way to spread any force on the individual trusses and it isn't really that much weight. But, still cipherin' on the motor plan!


John,
you should have at a minimum a 40# deadload rating on your trusses. 40 pounds per square inch when taken over a truss is quite a bit of weight it can hold. And that is before there will be noticable deflection, not failure. I would still get a few neighbors over to help, just saying that you shouldn't have to worry about trusses not holding. Nice unit you got there, good luck on the install, I can't wait to see the updates. I will be starting my shop and hence DC system in about a month. As soon as the great white north turns... well um, not so white.

[John Keeton]

Last weekend was the start of the install of my new Gorilla 2.5hp! Had a woodworking project in progress and needed to get some manual help, but it came together pretty smoothly. The local hvac supplier did not have some of the fittings I needed, but those are in. I will start the ductwork tomorrow. May not make a lot of progress with Easter, the grandkids, and 300 eggs to hunt, but should get a good start. Will do another post with a couple of pictures of my anticipated runs - ran out of image space.

[John Keeton]

I plan to come off of the unit with a short straight pipe, then a do a drop to the band saw (with two 4" flex runs to the ports), then split with a "Y" and make 2 main runs to each of the views shown. Probably doesn't make much sense the way I have stated it, but will try to post more pics as it progresses.

[John Keeton]

Here's the next phase of the DC install. I need to install some framing between the trusses to support some of the runs, so couldn't go further. It isn't too late to change some of this stuff, so I welcome any thoughts from all those that have done this before. I couldn't have accomplished this without the great input from Creekers!

So far, the install has gone smoothly. The foil tape is amazingly tacky and gives great solidity to the overall system. I am trying to silicone all the fittings as I go, so when I get done, should only have to go back and check for leaks.

I suspended the duct from the trusses. Took some scrap poplar and cut pieces 3/4" x 1 1/4" by 15" long. Then took a piece of oak about 1/4" thick by 3/4" about 5" long, drilled a hole through it, ran a screw into the end of the poplar creating a tee that would rotate. Screwed the poplar to the truss and rotated the oak tee in the direction of the duct and then used 2 zip ties to secure the duct. Not sure this makes sense, but will try to post a close up as this thing progresses. They seem very light weight for the job, but very solid. Kind of surprised me that it worked.

Worst thing about this install is that it consumes the shop. NOTHING gets done while this is going on. I have bits and pieces of duct laying everywhere, and every tool has stuff sitting on it. Does keep me motivated to get it done though!

[Karl Laustrup]

Very nice install John. I see you've made it possible to add the bigger collection drum. Good idea. :) That small drum will fill very quickly.

I started with the small drum and quickly changed to the larger drum. In fact I didn't even get mine hooked up and running before I ordered the larger drum from Oneida. You can also get a longer hose so the drum can sit on the floor.

Karl

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Go John! Nice clean looking installation! I like the idea of the T-heads that will rotate and the use of ty-raps! Nicely done sir!

[Jim O'Dell]

John, looks like everything is going together nicely! Only think I see from the pictures that I would have tried to do, and you may not have a choice not knowing the overall set up and limitations of where the cyclone could mount, is to make the initial run into the inlet on the cyclone uninterupted for about 5 to 7'. In other words, having a straight shot to the inlet without the wyes. Will this make a big difference? Probably not. In fact, I don't "know" that it will make any difference at all, but understand that it helps with the separation aspect of a cyclone if it doesn't have to deal with turbulence that close to the inlet.
The duct hangers look like they will work very nicely!! They virtually dissappear!!! Good job! Jim.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jim,

Oneida designed mine with the 7" to 2 - 6" wye right out of the DC. I would think they wouldn't have designed it that way if it made a difference?

[John Keeton]

Thanks guys. Ken, I gained a lot of info from you, Becker and others and appreciate very much the input and ideas.

Karl, the room for the larger drum is a byproduct. I needed the unit high enough to clear my lights and give me a straight run out of the inlet. It was a real pain getting it installed that high, but I think it will work out OK. And, yes, I probably will end up with bigger drum! I still need to relocate the one light to get it out of the way of the filter. Right now, I have it pulled over with a piece of wire!

Jim O'Dell, first let me say that I looked at all of the posts for your install and, boy, do I have it easy!! Yours was a major undertaking and you did some really neat stuff. Stole a lot of ideas I intend to use. And yes, I tried to get a straight shot out of the inlet, but just couldn't make it work. I was somewhat limited in where I put the unit, and my shoplayout is the result of moving stuff around for the last 4 years to where it finally works, so I really couldn't do much more. Like Ken, I don't think it will make a big difference, or at least I hope not.

I will post more pics as the project evolves. Thanks again for all the support and ideas, both offered and stolen!!

[Jim O'Dell]

Notice, I do have an amount of "I'm not sure" here in my statements, just information I have heard over the years. And I was told, in much nicer terms :), that I was being a little anal about my design, and I agree :D. Actually what I was told was with the power that our hobby cyclones have, they can overcome some of the things we have to do to make the systems work around the "requirements" of our shops. So, no, I doubt that these little things will amount to anything, much less a problem. But if doing it another way saves some performance headroom, then a problem area elsewhere won't have as big of an impact as it might. Just information given as something to think about and make a decision on. Jim.

[John Keeton]

Thought I would update. It will take a couple of posts to get in the pics. This first batch shows the "T" hanger that I made up to hang the horizontal runs. It is working real well. I was having a little trouble figuring out how to mount my vertical drops that are on the wall and came up with this idea. The hvac is a little tricky to mount because it wants to flatten or crush if you aren't careful how it is supported. This worked out to be a real solid mount. I can make them as long as I want by using a different length of 2x4. Three of my drops come down the wall.

[John Keeton]

These pics show the progress so far - only getting in a little time here and there - and one of my drops for the TS. As Jim O'Dell indicated, problems can be cumulative. The hvac duct has installed smoothly, but the one concern that I have is that the "Y" will create turbulence and collect dust in the construction area. Notice the tabs where it joins. Obviously, this area will fill up quickly with dust, etc. and hopefully will smooth out somewhat. Just not sure about this. May end up down the road replacing all the Ys!! Guess I will just run it awhile and see. Any thoughts??

[Al Barale]

Hi John your doing a fantastic job, Well done.

With the Y piece the tabs need to be tapped down so that they are flat against the metal. I have attached a pic to show you what I mean.

[John Keeton]

Al

That is a great job of getting those tabs down! Unfortunately, I didn't even think about this issue until this point. I have only 3 more to install and will fix those before installing. But on the ones already in, I think I will do the "wait and see" before I take it apart. It wouldn't be a disaster, but it sure would be a PITA!! Those Ys are the guts of the duct assembly.

[Jim Becker]

John, you'll also want to seal the laterals and adjustable elbows with HVAC caulk once you have everything in final position and attached. They are all great places for leakage.

Very nice job on the hangin'!

[John Keeton]

Thanks Jim. I am trying to use the foil tape and silicone as I go. I have caulked or taped everything I can think of but I am sure I will get some leakage when I crank this thing up.

[John Keeton]

Things have progressed slowly. Went to visit our daughter and grandkids, lots of other stuff going on, but turkey season starts Saturday and I need to get this done! So, this is where I am now. All ductwork has been run. I have ordered flex and some 4" blastgates, and clamps. They should be here the first of the week. All joints are either taped or sealed with silicone, except the ones I've missed and I'm sure there are some of those!

These pics are of 4 of the drops. The first is next to my dropdown work table. I will use this for attaching to sander, and other small tools. The next drop is for the planer. The planer is mobile and normally will roll out of the way. I will use a quick disconnect on a piece of flex. The next pic is the drop for the jointer. It is mobile as well and I will do the same thing as for the planer. The last pic is the bandsaw drop. There are 2 ports on the bandsaw and I put a Y on to feed both ports.

In a previous post I mentioned the rough interior of the hvac Ys that I used. Al suggested tapping them down. I had already installed all but 3 of them, but was able to access the installed ones (except one of them) to bend down the tabs a little more, and then taped them all with the foil tape. Really smoothed them out and I believe a great improvement.

[John Keeton]

Last 2 pics. The first is the drop for the floor sweep and a take off for the miter saw. Used a hvac boot for the sweep and will build a box behind the miter saw to catch the discharge. The last picture is just a shot of the overall system. Hard to tell much about it. Glad to get this far. Still haven't fired up the cyclone - afraid to until I get all the gates on so I can open one at a time. I turned it on for just a second when I got the gorilla installed just to make sure it fired up. Hopefully, the flex will go much quicker than the ductwork. It wasn't all that hard to do, but just difficult to handle alone. Had my wife help hold a couple of pieces, but she doesn't do well on the ladder, so hate to ask.

[Al Barale]

Thanks for the Pics John, looks like you have done a really nice job, I think it was a good call to smooth out the tabs and ensure that you ducting is as efficent as possible.

[harry strasil]

I am curious why no one thought of hoisting the motor part up with a block and tackle or comalong first, and let it hang, then installing the cyclone and just lowering the motor part in place?

I have done that many times in close quarters with larger things, and a ladder makes a good support for a block and tackle of comalong to do the hoisting, with another block and tackle to let it move over the installation, you just need to make sure the ladder feet are secured so it doesn't slip on the floor. Maybe blacksmiths and millwrights think differently than WWer's sometimes.

No offense intended, just stating other options.

[John Keeton]

Harry

Appreciate the comments. Actually, I did consider this and even installed an eye bolt in a truss directly over the cyclone with the thought of doing just what you suggest. But, in the end, the toughest part was getting the barrel and impeller up and installed. I don't think that hoisting it up would have worked for a variety of reasons. It certainly was a 2 man job. When it came to the motor, and this probably wasn't smart, I ended up having a buddy waiting on another ladder and I simply carried it up my ladder and with his help positioned the motor. I had always felt that part would be the toughest, but ended up being a breeze. I do appreciate your ingenuity - I see it exhibited throughout the creek!

[Thom Sturgill]

One thing I noticed, you said you were using HVAC ducting and wyes, and looking at the pictures of your wye and Al's wye, I see that the tabs are oriented differently. If you hadn't already said that you taped them, I would have suggested it since yours point INTO the air flow and would, without a doubt, collect debris.

Very good job, by the way. One question, on your hangers it appears that you are fastening the tee into the end-grain of the 2x4. Might that not cause problems down the road? Perhaps a strap over the end of the 2x4 would be in order if you see any pull out issues.

[John Keeton]

Thom

Thanks for the compliment. On the Y, mine is hvac and I think Al's may have been for another use - thus the different direction of the tabs. I think you are correct on the collection of debris. In the end, it may not make all that much difference as the tabs would eventually fill in. Although they would be smoother then, they would further restrict air flow.

The tee looks much larger in the photo. The body (long part) is actually a piece of poplar about 3/4 x 1 1/4. I was a little concerned about going into the end grain, but it really pulled up tight and didn't give any hint of striping. Since there won't be any movement, I hope it will hold OK. If not, I will have to get another plan!!

[Al Barale]

Thom very good pick up ;)

The reason it doesnt look like HVAC is that I custom made all the pieces of ducting to suit my cyclone, One thing I did when making up all the bits and pieces and putting it all together was to look at the orientation of the tabs and joins and any areas to ensure that no wood chips and dust could get caught up.

[John Keeton]

Al

You kept that secret too long!! If I had known that I would have invited you for a free week, all the food you could eat, and great company! Would have worked out much better than me fighting all that ductwork!

[Stephen Hopkins]

John very very nice install,I just purchased a 3Hp Gorilla for my considerably smaller shop,(It may have been over kill on my part) Its interesting to see that your using 6 inch pipe my understanding is that 6 inch pipe is too large and these units work better with 5 inch pipe ? Can anybody clarify this as I may be able to get the 6 inch HVAC pipe locally which would save me a ton of money in transport costs.

[John Keeton]

Stephen

I can tell you that when I spoke with the salesman at Oneida he suggested 5". But after reading everyone's experiences, I decided that my losses in static pressure by using the less than perfect hvac, the turns I had to make, and my probable less than ideal installation, I would be OK with the extra volumn. Haven't used it yet, so can't tell you more. Seems others have found the PVC to be an affordable option (apparently only commonly available in 6"), but in my checking the fittings were a lot more than the hvac. I found the hvac fairly easy to work with and reversing the direction of the fittings wasn't that big of a problem. I bought a crimping tool at the outset, $23, and really had to crimp just a few pieces of pipe and a few fittings. Probably could have avoided some of that by not using every scrap of pipe, but I'm cheap! My only left over was a 20" piece of pipe. I don't have a total cost on the duct system yet, but suspect it is in the range of $500 counting blastgates, flex, clamps, tape, quick disconnects, silicone, etc. The first estimate from Oneida, not including some of the extras was over $1300. As I recall, they would offer free shipping. I am sure it is better, and easier, but I was willing to compromise. Others may not feel the same.

[Stephen Hopkins]

John I appreciate your quick response, I just order and paid for my 3Hp Gorilla yesterday, Oneida says it will take 7-10 days to have it manufactured and 5 day to ship to Canada.(That will give me a little time to plan the duct work and clean my shop)
This 6 inch HVAC Pipe your using is it a special gauge pipe?
Where would be a good place to look for it it not the kind of stuff Home Depot would have is it?

[John Keeton]

Stephen

I happened to be up early getting ready to go turkey hunting - great morning! My son and I both scored by 7:12 am, and back home.

I got my duct at a local plumbing/hvac dealer. Most is 26 ga., but some is 30. They seemed to have all of it in the same bins, etc. In hindsight, I should have pilfered through the stuff and gotten all 26 ga. but I don't think it will make a difference. There have been discussions on collapsing the hvac stuff, but the consensus seems to be that it isn't likely. The only parts I think are at risk are the straight runs, so 26 ga. would be better for those. The 90's and Ys are too stiff regardless of the gauge.

Lowes had the same stuff - a little higher, but not much. Their 90's were actually a little better made. I think I paid $2.10 each and their's were about $3.20, but the difference in quality probably would justify that.

I used one tube of silicone, and a little more than one roll of foil tape - 50 yd roll I think?

I ended up ordering the blastgates from lee valley only because I like dealing with them. I think the ones from blastgates are the same stuff and a few cents cheaper - not sure on shipping. Ordered, but have not received, the flex from Peachtree. There is another thread on my inquiries on sources for flex.

Good luck with your installation, and keep us posted! Get some help putting up your unit. The actual process is a breeze, but cumbersome to handle and heavy! Did you get the remote?

[Stephen Hopkins]

Well I was going to order everything from Oneida but thanks to your input I may be able to do it a little faster and a hell of a lot cheaper. I did order the remote but didn't order the stand. I'm really looking forward to receiving my Gorilla and most definitely will post pictures of the install.
I do really appreciate your help and your advise
Again Thank You very much

[John Keeton]

Stephen

Glad it was of some help, but by no means can I take credit for any of the things I did right. That knowledge came from other creekers. I will, however, take credit for the several things I did wrong!!

As you can see, I did not get the stand either as I needed my unit mounted higher. I do think the stand may help cut down any noise level to some degree, but don't know how much. I think the wall mount works out fine. The mounting holes are 16' on center for studs, so that does force the location of the unit to some degree unless one mounts some 2x4s to span the studs. If I did that, I would want to use through bolts on the mounting bracket rather than lag bolts.

[Wes Terry]

I'm impressed, but by now I should know better. You always do whatever you do in an outstanding manner. I am anxious to stop by and see for myself.

Wes




Here's the next phase of the DC install. I need to install some framing between the trusses to support some of the runs, so couldn't go further. It isn't too late to change some of this stuff, so I welcome any thoughts from all those that have done this before. I couldn't have accomplished this without the great input from Creekers!

So far, the install has gone smoothly. The foil tape is amazingly tacky and gives great solidity to the overall system. I am trying to silicone all the fittings as I go, so when I get done, should only have to go back and check for leaks.

I suspended the duct from the trusses. Took some scrap poplar and cut pieces 3/4" x 1 1/4" by 15" long. Then took a piece of oak about 1/4" thick by 3/4" about 5" long, drilled a hole through it, ran a screw into the end of the poplar creating a tee that would rotate. Screwed the poplar to the truss and rotated the oak tee in the direction of the duct and then used 2 zip ties to secure the duct. Not sure this makes sense, but will try to post a close up as this thing progresses. They seem very light weight for the job, but very solid. Kind of surprised me that it worked.

Worst thing about this install is that it consumes the shop. NOTHING gets done while this is going on. I have bits and pieces of duct laying everywhere, and every tool has stuff sitting on it. Does keep me motivated to get it done though!

[John Keeton]

From the guy that runs a cherry furniture production shop, I appreciate the compliment!! The flex and gates will be in tomorrow, but I won't be able to work on it then. Maybe later in the week you can help finish this thing up and we'll see how it sucks!!

[John Keeton]

Let me remove all doubt!!! 30 ga hvac WILL NOT stand up to the pressures of a Gorilla 2.5 hp cyclone!!!! If you need proof, go no further. I cranked up the new installation last nite, and everything worked great when I ran the TS and planer on short runs. Tonite, I opened up one of the long runs and that run and the longest run immediately folded!! Back to the drawing board. I know that I have a mix of 26 ga and 30 ga simply because I didn't notice when I bought the pipe. In haste, I went ahead and installed what I had instead of taking the time to exchange it. Trouble is, I know I still have some that is in the system, but not real sure where! I guess I will replace these runs with 26 ga and hope for the best on the rest of it. Giving some thought to putting PVC in the runs, but don't know how much trouble I would have mating the two.

[Keith Beck]

Wow, I'd always heard that that would happen, but this is the first time I've seen proof! :eek:

Keith

[Steve Summers]

Now I know which dust collector to buy. When I build the shop this summer, I'm getting a Gorilla 2.5!!! John, I feel bad for your loss. If I lived closer, I would come over to help in your time of need. Thank you for blazing a trail for others to follow.

[Chris Padilla]

Yep! Finally, we have proof that #30 can be collapsed. I think #30 fittings may be okay but long runs of it may not be!!

[John Keeton]

Thanks for the consoling. The fix won't be all that hard. I have removed the damaged goods, and checked out the rest of the system. The only 30 ga I have left is in two vertical drops, but they are supported with the semicircular brackets I built and did not seem to flex much. I think they will be OK. Only problem is - I went back to the plumbing supply store and the rest of what they have is 30 ga. They are going to get some 26 ga from their distributor by next week. I am paying about $1.20/ft, so can't justify doing anything else but wait. Seems the rest of the 26 ga did fine.

And Steve, the first time I turned this machine on, it seemed like it was going to yank the paint right off the shop walls! I am greatly impressed with the machine. It is relatively quiet given the power. I ran a board through the planer several times, and not even a speck of dust avoided the suck!

[John Keeton]

Weekend followup. Ordered the 26 ga pipe - it will be in Tuesday. Cost went up to $1.75 foot. I think they sold me the first batch priced as 30 ga. without either of us realizing it. In the meantime, thought I would report on other progress.

Ordered the #377 heavy duty clear PVC flex from Peachtree http://www.ptreeusa.com/dusthose.htm . Very pleased. It is very heavy mil but is also flexible and easy to handle. Best price of any I found.

My jointer and planer have internal mobile bases. I normally roll them out of the way and wanted a way to connect/disconnect to the DC without clamps.

With the flex, I also ordered some #421 Quick Adaptors http://www.ptreeusa.com/dustfittings_connector.htm#420 . Went to Lowe's and got a couple of LP1304 4" PVC male adaptors, sch 35 s&d. The #421 quick adaptor males into the LP1304 perfectly. It is flush against the inside shoulder and creates a very smooth unit with a tight friction fit but can be removed easily.

On the drop with the 6" blastgate and reducer I had to crimp the reducer to get the LP1304 over it. Not the best result. I did caulk with silicone on the inside to smooth out the crimped shoulder and prevent a collection of dust, etc.

On the 4" blastgate, it is a near perfect fit. Used my spindle sander to create some flat spaces on the threaded portion to clear the clampdown screw on the blastgate, and to allow 3 spots for self-tapping screws.

In hindsight, wish I had just used 4" blastgates on both of these drops as the end result is much cleaner with less obstruction in the line. But, I had purchased some 6" gates from another creeker and already had them installed. Maybe others can gain from my adventures!!

[John Keeton]

Final post! Sorry to be so late in getting this final update in. No pics as the appearance of everything is the same.

The order of the 26 ga pipe was delivered, went to pick it up, and it was 30 ga!! Had to wait for a reorder, received it, and had a dozen other things going on at the time.

Finally reinstalled the collapsed duct sections, taped, caulked, and went over everything again to make sure I had all joints sealed properly. Fired up the unit with the optional remote with the blast gate to the floor sweep open and NO PROBLEMS! Tried every gate, they all work fantastic. The 26 ga pipe seems to do fine.

I left one two feet section of 30 ga in the system (some of the fittings are 30 ga) but I installed a plumbers clamp around it to stiffen it some. Seems to do fine with no visible flex.

I can't say enough about the suction of this unit. The floor sweep will clear whatever is within 10 inches of it. If I just sweep stuff toward the opening it is GONE! I had to put some silicone under the bottom edge to glue it to the floor and put a small block of wood as a spreader in the opening of the sweep to keep it from wanting to close down. Works fine now.

All other drops work equally well. I have two upgrades that I want to do. I will install a miter saw hood. I left an available 4" drop for that. Others have been posting ideas on that and I will try to incorporate some of their thoughts. Then, I would like to someday put an overhead pickup for the table saw. I have a drop over the saw for that purpose and to use for the router table extension - dual purpose. That will come in the future - with pics when done.

Hope this primer on hvac duct is helpful. The total cost of the duct system, tape and silicone, flex and various fittings, but not counting the replacement of 4 sections of collapsed 30 ga, was about $425 - substantially less than spiral, or even PVC. All in all, I would do this same system again and wouldn't hesitate on the hvac vs. the others.

I want to again thank all those who contributed thoughts, and express my appreciation for all who went down this road before me. I gained a tremendous amount of knowledge from other creekers before doing this. That made the job much easier. Just wished I had listened to those that said DO NOT use 30 ga.! But, it was an easy fix.