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Stephen Edwards
03-11-2008, 3:31 PM
I'm working on a project that calls for a 3 1/4 or 3 1/2 HP router. I need some info from owners of the two routers listed below, please:

Porter-Cable 7518 Speedmatic 15 Amp 3-1/4 Horsepower Fixed Base 5-Speed Router

And............

Milwaukee 5625-20 15 Amp 3-1/2 Horsepower Fixed Base Variable Speed Router with T-Handle Height Adjustment Wrench

Question 1- What is the height of the router when it is raised in its fixed base to its highest position. In other words, if the router is sitting on a table, no bit in it, and you raise it to the highest lockable position possible, what is the height measurement from the table to the very top most part of the router?

Question 2- Does the height adjustment go straight up and down without having to "twist" the router?

Question 3- For this project I need a router that does not have the switch as part of the handles. Do these routers meet this criteria?

Question 4- Are the handles removable from the base? If not, what, if any, problems would one encounter with the function of the router if one simply sawed the handles off?

Thanks very much for your time.

Jeff Hallam
03-11-2008, 3:37 PM
For the PC 7518:

Can't help you with the height question, mine is mounted in a table.

The switch is located on top of the motor and is NOT on the handles of the fixed base.

The motor has indexing pins on it that move in threads on the interior of the fixed base, this is used to raise or lower the motor. So, while I have mine in a table, I believe you would have to twist the motor if you were using it freehand. If you are planning on mounting in a table, you can get a router lift that holds the motor and therefore no twisting for height adjustment

The handles are not removable. If you saw them off, you will need to find some safe way of handling the beast as it is a sturdy (i.e. heavy and powerful) router. Why would you saw them off? If it is to mount in a table, then I suggest buying a router lift. There are many choices for these.

Julian Wong
03-11-2008, 3:53 PM
Stephen,
It sounds like you're trying to mount the router in a small enclosed space.
I don't know much about the milwaukee, but I can tell you about the PC7518. I don't have access to my 7518 now (at work) but to answer some of your questions.

You have to twist the motor to raise/lower the bit. No other way.

Switch is on the motor, not on the handles.

handles are cast as part of the base. You can saw off the handles but then you will not be able to use the router hand-held anymore. It has to be table mounted then. It's a powerful beast that will torque your hands out!

My suggestion is to get a router lift. You mount just the router motor in the lift and you can move it vertically without twisting the motor. And it can fit into tight spaces too. And you get to eep the router base just in case one of these days, you decide you need to route hand-held with it.

Rick Moyer
03-11-2008, 7:46 PM
I have the 5625 but just (today) finally put it under the table. Haven't used it yet! anyway,
1. don't know, but I can try to measure for ya tomorrow
2. Yes, straight
3. Yes, separate
4. Yes, removable

glenn bradley
03-11-2008, 7:59 PM
5625 is 10-3/8" from table to top of motor with the base plate removed (mine is on a router table plate). Factory plate is about 1/4" thick IIRC. This would be the height if you adjust the motor until the screw jumps the track. You could get another inch out of it by sliding the motor up by hand but I would not recommend it from a safety standpoint.

P.s. a brief description of what you're trying to do would yield better responses.

Bill Wyko
03-11-2008, 8:03 PM
Most everything is made to use the PC-7518 Most everything else needs an adapter. I have 2 and you can burry them in sawdust and they just keep going. IMHO you can't go wrong. I've ran mine for years w/o any trouble what so ever.

Steve Roxberg
03-11-2008, 8:40 PM
I have the 5625 but just (today) finally put it under the table. Haven't used it yet! anyway,
1. don't know, but I can try to measure for ya tomorrow
2. Yes, straight
3. Yes, separate
4. Yes, removable

The 5265 is 13 3/4" at it's maximum height. That was with the motor sitting on top of the base. The Plastic base is 1/4" thick so you could remove it and gain that 1/4".

The unit is 10 3/4" high with the plastic base when the raising mechanism desengages. So you could go taller and still lock the motor, you would have to manually adjust the height. That would be nearly impossible.

I just bought the Milwaukee and it's a sweet router.

Oh, stealth gloat I only paid $180 delivered.

The other answers from a previous posted above are correct.

glenn bradley
03-11-2008, 9:37 PM
The unit is 10 3/4" high with the plastic base when the raising mechanism desengages.

Oops, guess that factory plate is closer to 3/8". If so, Steve's and my measurements agree.

I also agree with Steve that the 5625 is sweet. The thing is a locomotive. I have heard good things from 7518 owners but, that twisting the motor thing bugs me. Does this mean the switch position changes (in rotational position) as you change height(?).

Stephen Edwards
03-12-2008, 4:51 AM
Thank you folks for your information! I really appreciate it. Glenn, you're absolutely correct! Here's the brief description of what I'm doing:

I'm restoring from top to bottom a machine that I built/converted about 15 years ago. It's a pin router or overhead arm router. I'm not sure what the proper terminology is. This time around I want a more powerful router in it.

I had an old Craftsman Radial Arm Saw from the 1960s whose motor had long since gone on to power tool heaven. I removed the motor/saw and kept the rest of the machine. Then, I built a box that holds a router and mounted that box to the carriage of the RAS that travels along the arm. I mounted a table on the the table supports of the RAS. With the box holding the router (with either a 1/4 inch drill bit or 1/4 inch straight cut router bit installed in the router....I don't remember which) mounted on the arm I then chose a place for the "pin" to be installed on the table.

Still with me? I lowered the arm of the RAS until the bit engaged the table and made the hole to accept the pin. I installed the pin and voila! Now I had a pin router. It also has two methods of controlling the depth of cut; the height adjustment of the router itself as well as the vertical travel of the arm on the RAS. It worked perfectly for the particular task for which I built it.

This time around I want to build more options into it. I want to have several removable pins located in different places on the table for pattern work. I also want to build a fence so that I can have the option of using this machine for dados on the length of a board.

So, I need a powerful router that I can install in a new box that I will build or have built. I prefer that the router motor travel straight up and down the base, without having to screw or twist it. If I'm understanding your responses correctly, it sounds like the Milwaukee 5625 would be the router of choice for this application. The maximum height of 10 3/4 would work fine.

However, considering the 13 3/4 height with the motor sitting on top of the base perhaps I need to rethink the bottom of the box because I want to be able to remove the router from it's base without having to remove the base from the box. Maybe I can have the bottom of the box made so it's removable. I'm thinking out loud here!

As for the box itself, I'm leaning toward having one fabricated using 1/2 inch clear polycarbonate for the top and bottom and 3/8 inch clear polycarbonate for the sides, back and hinged front door. The bottom, of course, would have a hole cut for the router bits and a shallow mortise for the base to fit into. It needs to be strong with no sag. This time around I want the box to be clear so that I can see through it to the work underneath.

What are your suggestions for dust collection, please? Also, will the hole in the bottom of the box be enough ventilation or do I need to have a few holes drilled in the top of the box?

Below is an example of the type of work that I'll be using this home made pin router for.

83906

Thanks again for all of your help, information and suggestions. I really appreciate it!