Decal Pen Tutorial

[Jon Lanier]

Here is what I basically do with my Decal pens. As you can see I use Testors Decal paper. This can be found at Hobby stores. I purchased mine at "Hobby Lobby."

Just follow the directions for printing out your logo, name...etc. One thing I have found using this material is that you MUST use a light colored blank for the background. This is transparent film, but the inkjet inks are not solid enough for darker colors. That type of decal must be purchased through professional modeler companies.

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After printing out your decal you must spray this setting compound. It to can be purchased at the same place you buy the decal paper. These go hand in hand and one cannot be used without the other. But becareful not to over spray. Overspraying can stiffen the decal up so it won't bend around your pen.

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Now, lets assume to this point that you have turned your blank. For prepping the barrel for decal I follow these simple steps:

1) sand down to 1000 grit
2) Use two thin coats of CA. I use an accelerate after each coat.
3) Micro Mesh the barrel 1500 -- 12000 grit
4) DO NOT BUFF

The barrel should be nice a smooth at this point.

Now is the time to cut out your decals. Keep the trim close but not to close that you can't handle the piece. Size it up to where you would like it on the barrel.

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Take your decal and let is soak in some cool water (you can read the direction on package for this step).

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Now be gentle as you slide the decal off the backing and place it on your barrel. Be very gentle rubbing out any creases and bubbles. THIS A MUST!

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Now let the decal dry over night or 12 hours. You may see the outline of where you cut the decal out. That is okay and there is no need for any special decal over cover liquids. We will be applying enough heat when we put our finish on that the line will melt into the CA finish.

Here you can see the two barrels I've prepared to this point.

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Now that the decal has completely dried be careful mounting it back onto the lathe. The decal can be easily be ripped at this point.

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Now you need to take some thin CA and apply it with a shop towel. Quickly going over the blank as it is turning on the lathe. I then apply an accelerate. This seals a nice little top coat over the decal and protects it for the next applications of CA Glue.

I put on 3 coats of thick CA with accelerate after each coat. Some may think this is over kill but I like to be sure I don't go through and sand the decal off... starting another over night wait.

After the CA Coats are applied I then Micro Mesh the barrel, 1500 - 12000 grits. I then use my beall buffing system. I only use the White Diamond skipping the Tripoli. Then finish off with a couple coats of Renascence Wax.

Now just put your pen together.

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[Steve Busey]

Wow, you make it look easy, Jon!

[Rick Gifford]

I like this. Thanks for sharing. One more thing for the list!

[John Terefenko]

Yea the long awaited instructions and will say this the wait was worth it. Nice work on the photos. A picture is worth 1000 words and you did it justice. Nice work and yes you do make it look so easy. On the to do list for sure.

[Brian McInturff]

I'm saving these instructions. Actually, thes may save my job too. How can the CEO lay me off right after I give him his own personalized "Company" pen. :D Thanks a million!!!

[Tom Sherman]

Interesting stuff Jon. You did a great job on the tutorial.

[Tom Klass]

Nice job Jon, what size font did you use? Did one size seem better than the other?
Tom

[Jon Lanier]

The different fonts and sizes come through experiementing on regular paper first.

[Scott Lux]

Thanks for this John. It's a great service you did here.

Lux

[Russ Peters]

Is it possible to do this on acrylics? I got a request for a personalized pen and am wondering if this is possible instead of having it laser engraved (if that is possible with acrylics). I am new to doing customized personalization. thank you for your responses

[Jon Lanier]

Is it possible to do this on acrylics? I got a request for a personalized pen and am wondering if this is possible instead of having it laser engraved (if that is possible with acrylics). I am new to doing customized personalization. thank you for your responses

I tried the clear decals on some Blue, Redish acrylics and it didn't come through. They would work on anything white... at least I think they would. They do have "white decals" they may work on darker acylics. But I just don't know about it.

[Russ Peters]

What then to seal them in C.A.? or do you think that just polishing after application would do it? I know the easiest way to answer my questions would be to go down to the lathe and try but tonight I am just being lazy... thanks for answering

[Jon Lanier]

What then to seal them in C.A.? or do you think that just polishing after application would do it? I know the easiest way to answer my questions would be to go down to the lathe and try but tonight I am just being lazy... thanks for answering

They would need to be sealed in some way. The CA method is the only one I know... but I don't know how that looks on an acrylic?

[Tim A. Mitchell]

Good work Jon. Thanks for sharing your methods.

[Nancy Laird]

Is it possible to do this on acrylics? I got a request for a personalized pen and am wondering if this is possible instead of having it laser engraved (if that is possible with acrylics). I am new to doing customized personalization. thank you for your responses

Russ, it's not only possible to laser-engrave acrylics, it is something that we do a lot of for many pen turners. You can contact me via PM if it's something that you'd like to discuss.

Nancy

[Don Carter]

Jon:

Thanks for the great tutorial. I have been wanting to try something with University logos for some time now. Well, I tried a couple of times on some nice maple pens and it has turned out okay.

I had a tough time getting the decals on with no bubbles or creases. I used an artist brush to brush from inside out and it helped. I am not satisfied with the results but I am going to keep trying some other methods.

The CA finish does a great job protecting the decal. I just wonder if there is something else I could use instead of the water-slide decal.

This my first pic up to SMC, so I hope it is okay.

[Andrew Derhammer]

You can use clear mailing labels. Also a ca finish looks fine on an acryllic, guys do it alot on alumilite snake skin blanks to bring out a higher gloss IIRC

[Jon Lanier]

...The CA finish does a great job protecting the decal. I just wonder if there is something else I could use instead of the water-slide decal.

Don,

I I'm glad you liked the tutorial. I think your pen came out looking pretty good. I imagine you can try other material, if it doesn't have sticky background you can aways glue it on. I think decals work because they are so thin. But who knows? If you try something else, let us know, we'd all be real happy to find out what else works.

-Jon

[Don Carter]

Jon, don't get me wrong, this is a great method. My old eyes and old hands don't work as good as they used to. It is tough getting in your fifties and losing your sight, dexterity and who knows what else. Heh I may need to get some magnifiers. I had trouble getting the square decal on the round pen. This was a modified Comfort pen and maybe I should try a larger bodied pen.

If I had not seen your tutorial, I would have not known where to start. Thanks, and keep 'em coming.